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I would take a 20 1.8 for evening/ low light (inside churches) independant of the d500 / d810
I became very handy for me in the past
Having use both whiel traveling I realy liked the articulatiing screen of the d500 in close / crowded places
So you sold the 2.8 300mm to get f4 lens and now trying the retrieve the light by bumping ISO ?
Maybe a faster glass would be a better fix for your situation then a D5 /D850
Even a used 600 VR II (non-E) should be very close to D5
I pick my D500 over D810 if I known reach is limiting factor. Yes I could crop in post, but why should I work w/ a small subject in the viewfinder?
I think getting a D850 to cropp (up to DX, not just 10% or so) for most of the time is waste of money which should be invested in a longer lens / DX...
I like to exit the tube anywhere in the differnt dirtrict and " go with the flow", just getting the atmospher in Japan (tokjo, kanasawa and big K in particualr) is special (at least to me) and you may get some impression outside the usual tourist places