A LIL Help needed plz

Mark101 · Mar 7, 2011

I have decided that I would like to try processing some b&w 35 mm. I have reviewed videos and such.I have compiled a list of thing that I think I need please feel free to tell me if there is anything else or something that I have on my list I dont need.
Tank and reel
Ilford Ilfosol 3 developer
Ilford rapid fixer
stop bath
fixer remover
photo flo
graduate
funnel
storge jugs
film washer.
changer bag

Ty for your time
Mark

Tareq · Mar 7, 2011

Timer to measure the time for developing and stop or fix, you need to be almost accurate on time.
Also you need a Thermometer, you should know the temp of the chemicals for consistency.
I have almost those things, just use change bag, put the film in the tank on its reel, check the temp of the chemicals, start to develop within the recommended time until you fix the film then you are done, what come after is not a big deal, i have also film clips to hang the films and avoid the curl, buy those clips without those sharp edges like lion teeth.
I have Ilfosol 3 but i feel many don't recommend this developer, buy another one such us Rodinal or D-76 or HC-110 or Pyro, i wish to have Rodinal, almost this is the only developer i can't have because it is discontinued and i can't ship it to my country if there are available bottles in the West.

Good luck.

Chris101 · Mar 8, 2011

Here's the stuff I use:

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Concerning Ilfosol-3 (and it's predecessor, Ilfosol-S): These developers are for slow film. Ilfosol has the advantage of bringing out stronger contrast with over-exposed and high key subjects. Wedding photographers used to love Ilfosol-S for the brides gown, but hated it for the groom's black tux! Tareq is correct that a first venture into developing would be better served by a general purpose developer like D76 or HC110 (which, in my book can do no wrong, and D76 is only slightly better, but has the hassle of being prepared from powder.)

W.Ray · Mar 8, 2011

Also, and it's my strong belief, large used plastic bottles for the exhausted chemicals to be taken for toxic waste disposal - the city does it each Saturday where I live.

Chris101 · Mar 8, 2011

That's a good thing Ray. Unfortunately a lot of cities don't do that (Phoenix has recently discontinued it's household hazardous waste program.) However, the only compound that doesn't biodegrade in b&w chemistry is the silver complexes in spent fixer. DIY types, and those without cooperative municipalities can put a large wad of steel wool in a bottle of spent fixer for a month. This reduces the ionic silver to silver metal, which sticks to the steel wool. The remaining ammonium/sodium thiosulfate, sulfate and sulfites are then degradable.

Twincitynikkor · Mar 8, 2011

Looks like you got the basics except you need a good thermometer. I' m not sure what fixer remover is though. Your wash cycle after the fixer uses plain water and will suffice. Also distilled water for your final rinse with photo flow really helps with spotting on your negatives. Remember with photo flo use very little, like one drop is good. You'll also need a pair of scissors to trim the leader and cut it off the spool and a bottle opener to open the canister.

Chris101 · Mar 9, 2011

Fixer remover, aka Hypo Clearing Agent

Martytoof · Mar 9, 2011

Having used both, I would definitely recommend HC-110 over Ilfosol 3, though that's just a personal preference. If you have an iPhone then instead of a timer you can invest in this app, which is really handy:

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?doc=mobile

Though a timer is probably more useful if you go on to do printing.

I can't overstate the need for a dust-proof enclosure of some sort to hang your wet negatives unless you like going through and removing hundreds of specks of dust in Lightroom or Photoshop after the fact. I use my shower, since I can run the shower, let it steam up to clear the air, then hang the prints after I turn the water off.