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another attempt at peewee FB

Discussion in 'Sports Photography' started by Wilross3, Oct 2, 2008.

  1. Tonight's work, running out of daylight on an unlit field. Shutter priority 1/1250 @ 2.8 and auto ISO. Trying to watch my backround. Seem to be a little soft but I think the 70-200 was taxed. Any thoughts?


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  2. nipprdog


    Jun 8, 2006
    1. Drop shutter priority.

    2. Drop auto ISO.

    3. Try Apeture priority at 2.8 -3.2.

    4. Shoot more in potrait mode.
  3. jonh68


    Sep 21, 2008
    If you want to smooth out the background, 2.8 needs to be used instead of shutter priority. Shooting in Manual mode setting both SS and A may help. Using Auto ISO as long as you limit it to ISO 3200 is fine.

    Were you at full 200mm? You need to follow the line of scrimmage if this is as close as you are getting. #2 is your best composed shot.
  4. Thanks for the advice! Help me understand though... 1,3 and 4 were all at 2.8, if I am set to A priority and 2.8 will that make a big difference? The camera will change shutter speed based on aperture, or am I misunderstanding something?

    Was at 200mm for 1,3,4, and 125 mm and f5 on #2. Auto ISO was limited to 3200, and I think these were at 1000 or 1600.

    I will try manual next time out, 2.8 and 1/1000 or 1/1250, Auto ISO, AF-c and see what happens.

    Thanks again! Trying to get better at this!

  5. OK, standing in the shower I may have just had one of those rare moments of enlightenment.

    Using S priority and 1/1250 I was max'd out on aperture opening. No way to improve IQ because aperture was max'd and SS fixed. By using A priority of 2.8, I now give the camera leeway to use a slower SS. Auto ISO should not be a problem in the 1600 range.

    Tell me if I'm on the right track here...

  6. tjk60


    Dec 4, 2007
    troy, mi
    you are on the right track. Use f/2.8 on AP mode (or go Manual) to get the isolation (DOF) you need, shutter for these little guys can probably fall as low as 1/640 or 1/800, and Auto ISO will keep that shutter speed with the best quality possible. You can tweak your Exposure Compensation to bring out the faces, I'd start with +0.3EV for those shots towards the sun, and -0.3EV for those with sun at your back.

    On another note, try for some better positioning, walking up and down the sidleines, if possible. A good place for offensive shots for the little guys (to start) is about 4-5 yds past the line of scrimmage, and for defensive shots, maybe a few yard into the backfield. (this is without a longer zoom or prime than the 70-200). I'd think about adding a 1.4 TC to your kit for a little extra range. Those real long shots like 3&4 above are hard to nail. Did you have VR on? If so, I'd set it off. Even tho the 70-200 is easy to hand hold, I used a monopod with mine to help stabilize the shots I was getting...
  7. Bill,

    By viewing the embedded EXIF information from each of these photos, I see that three of the four images were captured at f/2.8 (and #2 was at f/5). The shutter speed was 1/1250th for all of the shots. And, the ISO varied from 1600 in #1 and #3 to 1000 in #2 and 1100 in #4.

    Clearly, all three of these factors (shutter speed, aperture and ISO) to create a good exposure. It appears to me that your exposure isn't really off--it's just that the photos are quite soft.

    You might have had a little latitude to drop the ISO down some by reducing shutter speed, but not much. For example, in #4 you could have dropped your ISO down to aboiut 550 if your shutter speed was reduced to 1/625th.

    My 70-200 VR is quite capable of generating sharp images--but good technique is critical at the 200mm focal length. I know many people don't like to do this, but I ALWAYS try to secure my 70-200 to a monopod or tripod. With proper technique, this assures that I've taken camera shake out of the equation.

    I don't own a D90, so I'm not sure how it performs in terms of image quality/noise at higher ISO settings. ISO 1000-1600 are borderline high--so it might make sense to try to drop those down a bit by using a shutter speed of 1/500th for a while in those darker conditions.

    Was VR on or off on your 70-200? I tend to leave it off when shooting sports at the higher shutter speeds as I believe it tends to slow the autofocus mechanism down--causing soft shots due to the focus being a little slow.

    The probably culprit of these shot shots is either camera shake or a focus problem. My best guess is that acquiring accurate focus for these fast moving images is the problem. There are several techniques for doing this--including using continuous AF and starting with a focus setting that is somewhat close to the action.

    I hope some of these thoughts help...

  8. jonh68


    Sep 21, 2008
    Yes. When I suggested manual, this is after finding the shutterspeed exposure in S or A mode. The reason to go into manual mode at times is because the camera will expose differently for dark and light jerseys. Next time you shoot a football game in low light, take readings while in S mode and see the different SS you get when you focus on different colored jerseys. You don't wild changes in shutterspeed. I will go into manual mode and use the average or the ss from the light colored jerseys.

    In good light, getting in A mode will do you fine. It's just when the light is bad and you are relying on stadium lights is when the ss speed becomes critical in stopping motion but also exposing properly.

    I think the ISO performance of the D90 is better than the D300 and I have used 3200 for extreme cases. Auto ISO is your friend, but there are some drawbacks similar to being in A or S modes in regards to dark/light jerseys. If you get some wild differences in looks, set ISO manually too.

    For football, resist the urge to zoom in and out. Stay at 200 mm and get closer. Don't be afraid if limbs etc get cut off when they get close. Sometimes the best shots are close up torso shots where you see the facial reactions of tackles. Look at sports picks in your paper and in magazines. Everything is tight unless there is an artistic flare to it.

    This is an example from one of my games this year.
  9. Wow, Tim - Glenn - Jonh - you guys are awesome! Thank you. I've been thinking about this stuff all morning, and feel like I am getting a much better understanding of the relationships of aperture, SS, and ISO as it specifically relates to shooting sports.

    I use a monopod as well, mainly for convenience, so I will definately try VR off. Never considered that it may be slowing the AF down - which I usually set to continuous. Will plan to add the 1.4 TC soon, need to pay off the Sigma 10-20 coming in the big brown truck this afternoon! Eventually I'd love the 300, so the TC will be used then too.

    I'll have to head back to the manual to figure out how to tweak the Exposure Compensation. I've seen that in other threads too, just need to sit down and figure it out. Now I have the motivation to!

    Great advice on using the camera set to A, 2.8, check the SS and switch to manual to help with the different colored jerseys on low light.

    And I will resist the urge (LOL) to zoom in and out in FB... as a novice I've been trying to go wide to watch where the action is going, then zoom in to get the shot. I can see now though that that is probably taxing the af, and by the time I see it and zoom, that moment is over.

    NF has been a great resource to me in the very short time I've been here - Thanks again to you all for the comments! Have a great weekend!

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