Anyone use Cokin system?

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by TOLady, May 16, 2005.

  1. More importantly the graduated ND filters. Picked up the P filter holder, have to get adapter ring and probably a graduated ND2 or maybe I should get the grad ND4? Just want some feedback on ease of use, where 2 or 4 is better for sky/land shots. I've used ND filters for waterfalls but haven't used any grad filters for bright skies. Thanks in advance for any help, Cheers, Sandi
     
  2. Chris101

    Chris101

    Feb 2, 2005
    Arizona
    Hi Sandi, I have a Cokin G2* rectangular graduated filter for the P system, however I do not have the holder. It needs to be held by hand over the front of the lens. I used this filter a lot with both color and black & white film to darken bright skys, but I have yet to use it (with good result) with my digital camera. It is easier for me to achieve similar results with software. I carry it anyway, because you never know.

    * It's an old filter, and I don't know how this number relates to the ND series. It cuts light by one and two thirds stops.
     
  3. Hi Sandi,

    I have a cokin setup with a graduated and a full ND plate. They do work but in my opinion are a bit of a hassle. the glass plates are a concern in a bag full of heavy stuff and the attachment does not work with very wide angle lenses. Having said that, there is a place for these filters and they can actually overcome a harsh contrasting light situation fairly simply.

    This is an alternative solution for landscape work. If you have time to mount your camera on a tripod or solid surface. You can do this in PS, I am just showing you this website as an example. also I have used his actions and they do work well and are easy to use.

    http://www.fredmiranda.com/shopping/DmRI

    I have not tried it yet but if you are using a D2x or D2h and set the camera to shoot brackets, it may shoot them fast enough that you can even get by with this hand held.

    If you are still interested let me know. I will sell you what I have.
     
  4. Thanks Chris and Scott. The reason I haven't purchased the adapter and any filters is because after I got this thing home, I started thinking and came to the conclusion that this whole set up might become a right royal pain in the @ss - fiddling around with glass sheets, fiddly adapters, etc. Scott, I think the handheld bracketing idea might be the answer and use I tripod when I can. Thanks so much for your help on this. Cheers, Sandi
     
  5. gho

    gho

    Feb 7, 2005
    California
    I used to use the Cokin system, but now it's easier to apply the effects via PS. Plus, it doesn't limit the original image like filters do.

    BTW, the filters are plastic, not glass.
     
  6. gho

    gho

    Feb 7, 2005
    California
    Oh, I should clarify - the square slip in kinds are plastic. I had a 77mm system and a step down adapter for my other lense (I only had two lenses before :/)
     
  7. Thanks Gregory, plastic might even be worse - scratches!! LOL I'm looking at the Fred Miranda plugin as recommended by Scott - might be a lot easier, and as you say, leaves the original image alone. Thanks for your input.
     
  8. Hi Sandi,

    Another use for Fred Miranda's DRI action is to process the image
    so that the bright sky looks the way you want it to, then process the
    same image but set the exposure for everything else and let the sky
    burn out. Copy and paste one image over the other and click on FM-DRI action.
    It will keep the best of both images. You may have to experiment
    with the order of the two images.

    You can also use this technique to pull out detail in an underexposed
    backlit portrait, without bracketing your exposure.
     
  9. Last edited by a moderator: Mar 15, 2017
  10. PSCS2 also has a setting that automates the proceedure.

    Take two or more open images that differ in exposure before you do any other editing so they are as shot out of the camera. Choose File>Automate>Merge to HDR (High Dynamic Range). This will create a single image containing the range of all the images. There is a slider that allows you to chose brightness levels. You save the image and then go to Image>mode menu to pick 8 or 16 bit to convert it from an HDR image to what ever file you choose, ie. tiff, jpg, etc

    The trick is to use a tripod and take your images all at the same f stop so the depth of field does not change. So leave camera at a given f stop and shoot it at different speeds until you get the sky exposed right in one image and the forground in another. You can even average several at different exposures and apply curves or whatever to make the picture really pop out.

    Pretty cool.
     
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