better bounce card and flash sync speed questions

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I was wondering about the better bounce card. Why does the guy in the video rotate his flash sideways? To me this would seem useful if you want less directed light, since the bounce surface would be smaller.

Also, I was wondering about flash sync speed. What is it exactly? Does it have something to do with timing the flash to coincide with the opening of the shutter?

Thanks!
~Newt
 
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You're correct on the sync speed; is the fastest shutter speed you can use with flash. The higher the sync speed your camera is capable of the better to stop action. 1/250 is a good start.
 
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I was wondering about the better bounce card. Why does the guy in the video rotate his flash sideways? To me this would seem useful if you want less directed light, since the bounce surface would be smaller.

It's all about geometry. If you have an sb800, deploy the built in bounce card. It works fine in the landscape mode. But when you turn the camera into the portrait mode and rotate the flash head in order to aim it at the ceiling, you'll find the bounce card is pointing at right angles to the subject.

Also, I was wondering about flash sync speed. What is it exactly? Does it have something to do with timing the flash to coincide with the opening of the shutter?

Precisely.
 
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It's all about geometry. If you have an sb800, deploy the built in bounce card. It works fine in the landscape mode. But when you turn the camera into the portrait mode and rotate the flash head in order to aim it at the ceiling, you'll find the bounce card is pointing at right angles to the subject.
.

So for taking landscapes, I should still point the flash at the shot, with the built in bounce card open?

About the sync speed, is there a point to set the speed lower? Or is there only a certain range that the sync will work with?

Thanks all!
~Newt
 
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So for taking landscapes, I should still point the flash at the shot, with the built in bounce card open?

We were talking about bounce flash, weren't we? In landscape orientation. aim the flash up, with the bounce card aimed at the subject. It really doesn't make any difference to the illumination of the subject whether the flash head is narrow or wide when the bounce card is attached. But you won't be able to use the bounce card in portrait orientation unless you attach it with the head in the narrow orientation.

About the sync speed, is there a point to set the speed lower? Or is there only a certain range that the sync will work with?


The sync speed is a maximum rating. You always have the option of selecting a slower shutter speed. Don't worry about exceding the sync speed, because if you have a flash attached to your camera, it won't let you set a shutter speed that's faster than the sync speed. Give it a try.


Thanks all!
~Newt
 
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Oh, sorry. I get it now. You mean landscape and portrait as in the orientation of the camera right?
 
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I was so confused because I thought he was talking about shooting actual landscapes vs actual people. I'm still trying to get used to the lingo. :D
 
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I was so confused because I thought he was talking about shooting actual landscapes vs actual people. I'm still trying to get used to the lingo. :D

What I would give to be able to light half-dome with an SB-800! :smile:
 
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The higher the sync speed your camera is capable of the better to stop action
I always thought you use SS w/ flash to control how much of the background of the subject you want exposed. Does a shot taken at 1/30 vs 1/250 makes a difference when using flash?
 
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I thought it had to do with timing of the flash and the shutter. Slow sync and the shutter are timed differently to expose more background, but movement can cause trails. Regular sync prevents this problem, but the background is not exposed as well. Maybe i'm out to lunch, but i've tried slow sync and reg sync with stationary subjects, and there is quite a difference.
Brad
 
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I thought it had to do with timing of the flash and the shutter. Slow sync and the shutter are timed differently to expose more background, but movement can cause trails. Regular sync prevents this problem, but the background is not exposed as well. Maybe i'm out to lunch, but i've tried slow sync and reg sync with stationary subjects, and there is quite a difference.
Brad

Slow sync is nothing more than a mode that lets you shoot with a shutter speed slower than normal. It doesn't have anything to do with the timing of the shutter.

Nikon has decided that the general public isn't quite smart enough to understand how their camera gear works; I suppose that's true to some degree. So when Nikon built the current crop of consumer grade dSLRs they limited the minimum shutter speed to 1/60sec. That is to say, if you indicate to the camera you intend to use flash (by raising the pop up for example) the camera will try to prevent you from using a shutter speed below 1/60 sec. The idea is to prevent too much image blur, especially if there is a good deal of ambient light. Of course, the camera will also prevent you from exceeding the maximum sync speed too. That's usually 1/200 or 1/25 sec depending on the camera model.

There are two ways to change this minimum shutter speed limitation. One is to go into the menu settings and select a different value. The other is to select "Slow Sync", which removes the limitation altogether and lets you use as slow a shutter speed as you desire.

Neither of these change the shutter and flash timing. Under normal circumstances the flash fires just after the shutter is fully open. In almost every situation, the flash duration MUCH shorter than the length of time the shutter is open.

In other words, the flash does it's job right at the beginning of the exposure. Any further exposure for ambient occurs during the rest of the exposure, which of course is controlled by the shutter speed. The process ends when the second curtain closes.

What you are observing with Slow Sync are simply photographs made at slower shutter speeds. If they are properly exposed, you will notice that ambient light plays a bigger role, i.e. the background gets MORE exposure. Naturally, if there is significant ambient light, moving subjects will be blurry because of the slow shutter speed.

On the opposite side of the coin, with a properly exposed image using higher (shorter) shutter speeds, the flash plays a larger relative role so generally speaking the background gets LESS exposure. Most likely you will see less subject blur due to movement.

Both the ratio between subject and background lighting and the differences in how motion blur is captured can be good or bad depending on the effect you're after.

None of this is rocket surgery. Many of us consider Nikon's limitation on minimum shutter speed with flash and the inclusion of Slow Sync mode annoying for the experienced photographer and confusing for the beginner. I'd rather not have it at all.

In any case, the timing of the flash and shutter remains the same.

Now Rear (sometimes known as second) Curtain Sync is something completely different from Slow Sync and a subject for another thread.

I hope this helps rather than having the opposite effect.:biggrin:
 
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None of this is rocket surgery. Many of us consider Nikon's limitation on minimum shutter speed with flash and the inclusion of Slow Sync mode annoying for the experienced photographer and confusing for the beginner. I'd rather not have it at all.

But as you point out, we can select the value for the slowest shutter speed allowed when using flash. Item e2 in the custom setting menu for the d200 allows me to set it anywhere between 1/60 and 30 seconds. But imho the default serves the needs of the majority of owners, including me.


Thanks for the great explanation of slow sync! It should be adopted as a Tutiki article!
 

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