Building a Monitor Stand - Step 3 - Finish!!

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Decided I needed a custom wood stand to go underneath my new monitor. Since a couple of folks mentioned they'd like to see the "process" that goes into my (small scale) woodworking projects, here goes!!

Step 1 - Design

I have a nice piece of maple that I was able to cut down to the proper size. Put together two variations. One has the main piece of wood flat on the desk, the other has small risers on the bottom; the extra space will be filled by the MacBook Air when it's functioning as a "desktop". If I go with the flat piece, which does look nice and may be a tad better viewing angle for work, I'll need to figure out an alternative stand for the Air.
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Since I'll need some time to finish and fill the large hole in the rear with resin, I'll try a poll ... which looks better?

Cheers!!

Ken
 

Butlerkid

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I'd go with the solution that puts the monitor at a comfortable viewing height. I quickly get an achy neck if I have to tilt my head up to view a monitor. My current monitor is so tall that I have my adjustable chair at full height so I can look straight ahead at the monitor. But my feet don't reach the ground, so I have a foot stool for my feet! LOL!
 
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I'd go with the solution that puts the monitor at a comfortable viewing height. I quickly get an achy neck if I have to tilt my head up to view a monitor. My current monitor is so tall that I have my adjustable chair at full height so I can look straight ahead at the monitor. But my feet don't reach the ground, so I have a foot stool for my feet! LOL!
OK, admit it, you are vertically challenged! :) :)
 
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that's a nice looking hunk of wood. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product. It seems to me that the second version (with supports) is much more practical for use with your laptop.
 
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Update ...

After a little experimentation, having the stand on "legs" turned out to be a little too high. Far more comfortable on the stand alone. So ...

That necessitated I considered a stand for the laptop so I used another piece of maple from the same original slice to start a stand. I routed out a slit and the Air will fit perfectly vertically.
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Need to find some felt or a way to better finish the slot so it won't scratch the Air over time. If you look closely, you can also see I'm not a real pro with a router yet! But, sanding and oiling the maple certainly creates a beautiful piece of wood!!

Next up will be using some liquid resin to fill the holes on the monitor stand itself.

Ken

(Removed the "poll" since the point is now mute!!)
 
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The stand in action.
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Temporary ... until I make the slot a little smoother.

Ken
 
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Sanded the inside of the MacBook's stand's slot as well as put a second coat of a simple Tung Oil finish on it.
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I think I need a small liner of some felt inside before I call this "done. But, it already looks great!!

Ken
 
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Step 2 ... Prep Work

So after a lot of planning, and cutting/planing to the correct size, my next step is to prep the wood. For some pieces, that's just a good sanding. But for this monitor stand, there are several deep cracks in the wood that I'll fill with epoxy to get that "river" look. Although in this case, they're small enough to be "creeks".

I've found a simple timesaver is to pour from one side ... which means the opposite side, and often the end, need to be sealed. Tyvek tape works well for this job as the epoxy resin will not stick to it.
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Next, mix and pour ...
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Finally, set it aside to cure. The epoxy I'm using takes about 12 hours to set pretty well, but needs a full 24 hours to be hard enough to sand and finish.
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When I got to this point the first time I did this, I was really nervous about finishing. Thought it would be difficult to make it look nice.

Found out that with some time and a lot of sanding, the results would turn out very well indeed.

More later ...

Ken
 

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I'm enjoying these step by step updates! Hubby enjoys wood working and has made several things for me......from a large glass doored bookcase, an armoire to foot stools and wooden boxes.
 
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First rough sanding done on one side.
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Had to do some planing on the edge which will mean a bit more sanding. Some of the epoxy on the bottom is not quite fully hardened so I'll let it sit until tomorrow to work there.

The slight indentation on the epoxy river will be pretty easy to solve ... the little hole (caused by an air bubble) may just become a "decorative design feature."

Ken
 
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Step 3 - FINISH

Now for the fun part!! After using a handheld orbital sander with varying grits (120, 240, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and finally 2000), the wood is as smooth as glass and ready for the next step.
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Yup, that's right ... it's time to "finish." I like to use a butcher block oil that's a combination of mineral oils and bee's wax that's durable and gives the wood just a tiny bit of a shine.
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With this piece, I think it'll be tough to figure out which side will be "up"!! Maybe I'll forgo the little feet I usually put on the bottom and make this one "reversible"!!

Actually, when I put the oil on, I'm always reminded of that feeling I used to get when developing a print in the darkroom. That time when you're rocking the developer tray back and forth gently and your image slowly appears. The satisfaction is a lot the same when the oil goes on ...

Hope y'all enjoyed this. I am by no means a "pro" or expert woodworker yet, but doing these simple projects has been a lot of fun. I have a few things in mind, including a new desk, or at least a new desktop, this spring. We'll see how that goes!!

Cheers!!

Ken
 
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What is the type of product that adds the blue tone?
It’s a 2-part liquid resin epoxy tinted with a little mica-based color. Takes about 24-hours to harden. Filling a good sized hole or depression is pretty easy. The cracks take a while because the liquid goes in, then air escapes with a bubble, then you need more resin .... and so on!!

Ken
 
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And, in position on my desk ...
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(Gotta say, this is one whale of an upgrade over my 21.5" iMac Retina!!)

Cheers!!

Ken
 

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