Can I mount a EOS lens on the D200?

Jan 7, 2006
I've played with it a little today & the lens is soft. My husband, a professional cameraman in Film & TV, says so as well. We're both used to super sharp images, so it will come down to the fact that I have to see if I'll adjust to the "softer" look of the lens.
Dunno what you are comparing it to for sharpness. Primes and pro glass are certainly sharper at the same apertures. Of course, the reason for that is twofold, first most pro glass and primes are faster, so are already stopped down when the 24-120 is wide open. :smile: The lens is soft, wide open, but is quite sharp, a couple stops down. At least mine is, and that's the way I generally use it. It's never going to be as sharp as a prime. But, there aren't any primes that zoom from 24-120mm, with VR. :tongue:

I sharpen all of my shots. Some require more than others. NBD to me. That is to be expected with shooting hand held, at slow shutter speeds, wide open, with pretty much any consumer lens, that I know of. :smile:

1. aRGB vs sRGB, which to shoot....... well I guess aRGB is winning that one:rolleyes:
Depends on what you shoot the most. aRGB is generally considered better for landscapes and such. sRGB is usually used for people. I quit fooling with aRGB and shoot sRGB, Mode I, all the time with my d200's. I've not found it to be an issue for any of my shoots. PP can change pretty much anything you want with RAW, including color space, AFAIK.

2. setting settings in the D200 or leaving it almost in "neural" past the aRGB & mode II settings, or adding sharpening etc in custom settings...
I have returned to Auto for most settings on shoots, except sharpening, which I think is +1. That's just for when I want to review the shots.

3. bracketing - - - I'm of the opinion my camera most of the time under exposes. So I worked with bracketing for a a few days. Just don't like how they have it set up. I'd like it to do it differently, maybe some setting I have not figured yet.
Bracketing is set in the menu, to whatever differences you want. I think the defaults are +/- .3EV, for 3 shots. Underexposures are a trademark of the matrix metering for a lot of people. In reality, it simply depends on the scenes you typically shoot. Shoot a small bright subject with a dark background and see what happens. :smile:

4. Uncompressed vs Compressed RAW files
I've always shot compressed, FWIW.

5. If I should set the camera on a constant EV +1
I wouldn't advise this. +1 EV is a pretty large difference from the norm. IME, +.3EV should be pretty close to what you want, if I'm guessing correctly the scenes you're shooting, unless you don't care about the highlights being blown.

6. Histograms & blinkies, working with
Use both. I usually have the blinkies on, but will use the histogram at times as well, to see how the color channels are doing.

Anyhow, here's one from today....
This is a classic example of matrix metering "underexposure" that you're seeing, I think. The flower is dark to begin with, plus it's in the shadows, surrounding by much brighter areas in the background. For this shot, a +.6EV might have been very close to the correct exposure for the flower. But, if you had spot metered on the darkest portion and you'd have had to dial in about -1EV, for correct exposure of the flower. :biggrin:
Links on this page may be to our affiliates. Sales through affiliate links may benefit this site.
Nikon Cafe is a fan site and not associated with Nikon Corporation.
Forum post reactions by Twemoji:
Copyright © 2005-2019 Amin Forums, LLC
Top Bottom