D2x and jpegs

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I recently bought a D2x and have been blown away by what this camera can do. I mostly shoot in RAW, but decided to give jpegs a try. Ack....underexposing galore. Is there a "trick" to this camera and jpegs? I was thinking there may be a custom setting in there that the previous owner used and it doesn't work for my eyes. I was thinking of a master reset (if there is such a thing) to clear everything and start from the Nikon defaults. Does anyone else shoot jpegs with this camera? I'm a bit disappointed at this time. I have temporarily switched back to my D2h to make me smile again.
 
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Here is what is in "shooting bank A" which is what I am using at this time.
image quality- fine
image size - L
HSC- off
jpeg compression- optimal quality
RAW compression- off
White balance- A
long exp NR- on
high ISO NR- off
image sharpening- normal
tome compensation- normal
color space- adobe rgb
hue adj- 0
multi ex- off

Please tell me if you meant something different. I am open to any suggestions!
 
B

bpetterson

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I only shoot jpeg's with my D200, D2Hs, D2x, D2Xs, and D1X.
Most here think RAW is the only thing.

image quality- fine
image size - L M
HSC- off
jpeg compression- optimal quality
RAW compression- off ON
White balance- A
long exp NR- on
high ISO NR- off ON
image sharpening- normal High
tome compensation- normal
color space- adobe rgb mode I
hue adj- 0
multi ex- off

Set EV on top LCD to + 0.30 or 0.70 to handle over exposure.
Keep your histogram to the right.

That should improve things.

If you insist on raw files and Adobe 1998, be my guest. Same settings.

Birger

That should get you going.
 
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Thanks for all the fast responses! I will give RAW+jpeg a try and see what happens. When I shoot dark dogs ( I shoot dog agility), I try and bump up the exposure to +.7 or +1. This seems to help. What I also failed to mention is that I am using matrix metering only. I haven't tried spot or center weighted. I am also going to go out and shoot "normal" stuff like landscapes, etc to see if I get the same results.
 
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Center weighted or spot will help a lot in that specific situation. If you use flash in iTTL though you can not use spot or the flash will not compensate properly (FYI) I do not think you are using flash in this question though.
 
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Not to get off subject, but are you going to Jim's BBQ this coming Saturday Dave? If you are, I may pick your brain in person....thanks for all the help. It's appreciated!
 
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Rich,
I had planned to go and really wanted to but I am flying out tomorrow for a week in Fiji so no, I will not be there.
Hope to meet you in person soon and we can exchange some secrets
 
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No reason why the JPGs should look materially different from the RAW, exposure-wise. I sometimes shoot JPGs for events and the images are fine.
 
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OK, here is a shot I took tonight of our doberman Aja. This is right from the camera with absolutely no adjustments.

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This is with spot metering. The matrix setting was very dark. Center weighted wasn't much different. If I open the image in CS2 and adjust it a little, I can make it look great. However, I was hoping to get it better out of the camera to start with. Of course I can sit there and fiddle with exposure, but I don't have much time between shots to change all the settings. Am I just asking too much here? Sharpness is great out of the camera IMO, just the exposure seems off.

Here is a landscape picture I took right after the dog pictures. Again, right out of the camera. No adjustments at all. I can't really complain about this shot as I feel it isn't so terrible. Although the greens look "wrong" to me somehow. I realize it can be sharper, but this is an exposure issue. Maybe I am just asking too much?

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BTW, you can go to my smugmug page to see the originals.
 
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Although the greens look "wrong" to me somehow. I realize it can be sharper, but this is an exposure issue. Maybe I am just asking too much?
Take that last shot with Color space III instead of Color space I. Color Space I gives you accurate flesh tones, is a must for portraits. Color Space III gives you accurate landscapes, the greens are dead on. I do not use the Adobe color option, either. Here are 2 recent examples with D2X, 17-55 / f2.8. Note the green accuracy:
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Here is a wedding I snuck a shot of while happening by in Millennium Park in Chicago:

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Both shots were taken with color space set at adobe RGB and color mode II. In your shots however, the greens do look more natural. But my main issue is with the exposure on the dog's face. I figured that using spot metering would bring out more detail than shown (out of camera). I can open the pictures in Capture and adjust them so they look great. However, I am afraid I am just asking too much when it comes to dark subjects.
 
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I do not believe you are asking too much. I generally use matrix metering, color space III, then compensate for exposure on dark or light surfaces. I use a loupe that is sold for digital camera LCD's - hangs around our neck. This loupe cuts 100% ambient light from the backlit LCD screen, even in full sun. You just hold the loupe to the LCD - exact fit on D2X - With it, once you know the D2X, you will be able to nail the exposure virtually every time.
 
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I do not believe you are asking too much. I generally use matrix metering, color space III, then compensate for exposure on dark or light surfaces. I use a loupe that is sold for digital camera LCD's - hangs around our neck. This loupe cuts 100% ambient light from the backlit LCD screen, even in full sun. You just hold the loupe to the LCD - exact fit on D2X - With it, once you know the D2X, you will be able to nail the exposure virtually every time.
My wife with her ever present loupe carrying her D200, 17-55/2.8, SB-400, Demb Flash, and loupe.

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Where do you get the loupe?
B&H stocks them. They have a diopter adjustment, so you can adjust the focus to your eye with or without eyeglasses. The opening fits the screen of D2X perfectly. It is rubber coated, and does not mark the screen. It includes a neck strap, weighs a couple ounces, and allows you a very close evaluation of your LCD screen in full sun. You simply place the loupe in front of the LCD and cannot believe the detail, as the sun is no longer a factor. Easily see if your subject is in focus, and if his / her eyes are closed!

This is absolutely the best investment we made to improve our photos! Once you try it, you will not venture out without one!

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=430396&is=REG&addedTroughType=search


J&R stocks them, too:

http://www.jr.com/JRProductPage.process?Product=4123308
 

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