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D2X and SB800s

Discussion in 'Nikon DX DSLR Forum' started by JerseyJay, Aug 31, 2005.

  1. I just got my second SB-800, questions:

    1. How should I set my onboard/slave flash to trigger slave ?
    2. How should I set my onboard/slave flash so only Slave works and Master doesn't ?
    3. How should I set my onboard flash to have X EV and slave flash to have Y EV ?

    Thanks in advance.
  2. Hi Jay,

    1. Set on board flash to master and off camera to remote.
    2. Not sure as I haven't done that. I would probably just point the on board flash away from the subject.
    3. Set remote to manual and select the EV you want. Use the on board as normal or set on manual with a different setting.
  3. jfrancis


    May 8, 2005
    Orlando, FL
    2. Dial down the output of the on-camera SB800 to read ---.
  4. JeffKohn


    Apr 21, 2005
    Houston, TX
    If you press and hold the button to get into the menu, there's an option to disable flash outpout from the master. This is not the same thing as just using the +/- adjustment, which I think would still have the flash firing at minimum power.

    Once you get the on-camera flash into Master mode, it should be pretty intuitive to do this part. Each channel has independent +/- settings that you can adjust.
  5. jfrancis


    May 8, 2005
    Orlando, FL
    I found it on page 77 of the SB800 manual. --- = flash canceled.
  6. Say, a question I have about D2X and SB800/600 sync speed...

    The manual seems to indicate that shutter speeds between 1/60 and 1/250 will be used in A mode, and even higher if FP is on ("auto FP" in the menu).

    And I would swear I have seen the shutter speed change in A mode with a flash attached, but most of the time it is stuck at whatever the minimum is set to. 1/60, etc.

    So what gives? Do I have to use manual mode to know I get a higher sync speed? Why does the manual state what it does if that is the case?

    I guess the only things that go through my mind are why do I see the shutter speed changing, then not? And given I use manual mode (and I do), are you then pretty much left to luck as far as there being a "perfect" flash output for the chosen shutter and aperture? It would be nice to see some indication of expected exposure, granted the camera doesn't "know" until it fires the preflash.

    Hm, too much caffeine in me this morning I think.
  7. gvk


    Jun 17, 2005
    Mystic, CT
    When using the SB800 on a D2X in A mode, whenever the ambient light is insufficient for a normal proper exposure the shutter speed will remain at whatever maximum duration you have selected in CSM (setting E2, default 1/60). Essentially the camera is trying to use an exposure that is correct for the background while balancing the flash to illuminate the subject. If you want to select a faster shutter speed for flash sync, you need to use either shutter priority or manual.

    This is explained much better in Thom Hogan's D2X ebook than in the Nikon manual.
  8. mcampos


    Apr 14, 2005
    Norwalk, CA

    Just curious, why would you want to disable the master flash?

    My guess is to avoid direct frontal lighting, if so how about a remote cord? That is how I am using mine, I put it on a stand and can get it about 3-4' away from the camera.
  9. Did you say you use a cord?? :eek: 

    This is the wireless age, baby. He doesn't want to be tethered by a cord. I just point my on camera flash up and dial it down if I don't want any direct frontal lighting.


  10. mcampos


    Apr 14, 2005
    Norwalk, CA
    >> Did you say you use a cord?? <<

    Well, actually more like Pocket Wizard, but I don't want to spend the man's money :smile:
  11. JeffKohn


    Apr 21, 2005
    Houston, TX
    Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but if you want to use CLS/iTTL then you either have to have an SB-800 in the hotshoe or connected to the hotshoe via SC-17/SC-28/SC-29. If you use pc sync cord, Pocket Wizard, etc, you have to control the flashes manually. Which is not necessarily the end of the world, after all some people prefer to go all-manual and meter/setup each flash individually rather than rely on CLS/iTTL. But there are times with CLS is pretty convenient.
  12. royk


    May 24, 2005
    Houston, TX/USA
    That's what I understood from the Nikon rep I talked to. I agree, it would've been nice to have CLS at times.

  13. I use it for aquatic photograph. One flash is sitting on top of the aquarium while other is mounted on the camera. I don't want to have extra exposure from the flash mounted on the camera.
  14. If you talking about putting 800 on board in Master Mode and then M and A to read -- .... it didn't work.

    Both flashes did not work.
  15. Jeff,

    I think that option is only available in SINGLE flash mode. :frown:
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 9, 2005
  16. My understanding was to get the Master flash only to not fire, set it to --. It won't fire but will still trigger the other flashes. I've done this before, using the example jfrancis gave, and it worked as described, i.e., no flash from master but slaves all fired.

    If I understood correctly what you wrote above, setting A to read --, would seem to mean that the A group of flash(es) would not fire either.
  17. cwilt


    Apr 24, 2005
    Denver, CO
    With the SB800 on the camera and set for commander mode. To have the master not fire and only remote group A working in TTL mode the menu should look like this....

    M ---
    A TTL
    B ---
    C ---

    Master will control remotes but not add to flash exposure.
  18. Kevin,

    Good point.

    I didn't pay attention. I left A as TTL and M as ---. Unfortunetly both flashes fired.

    Remote is set on CH3 GA and On-Board is set to MASTER.
  19. This is exactly my setting, however MASTER is still FLASHING !!!
  20. cwilt


    Apr 24, 2005
    Denver, CO
    Those flashes are what controls the remotes. They don't add to the exposure. :wink:
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