Here is another one I processed in LR/PScc and Nik using the method I described. I also blurred the BG in PScc and some other tuchup's.
by Mike Skerritt, on Flickr
by Mike Skerritt, on Flickr
Sorry Jim it appears I missed your post. Nice workflow and well thought out.Here is a quick run down of my workflow with some samples as I go. I know work flow is going to seem really odd, but its what works for me.
I have a preset for my LR importing. To make the preset I set all the sliders to "0" then I set the Highlights to "-100" the shadows to "+100" Clarity set to "-20" , again all other sliders are set to "0". I do this so I can see the dynamic range of my shots and can decide if the image is even worth working with. This image is what I see when the file gets imported.
View attachment 3797
Then I adjust the Exposure and color to taste. I also have a few Custom camera profiles I have made for different lighting scenarios. I rarely ever use the contrast slider in Lightroom. So first I go to the Camera Calibration module and select a profile. Then I adjust the exposure in the basic tab, and the color with the HSL/Color module until I get something like this.
View attachment 3798
Then I got to Photoshop and adjust contrast locally with adjustment layers. For slight general sharpening I use the High Pass method. For targeted sharpening I use the Sharpening Tool(Yes in the past this tool SUCKED, but Adobe has totally re-worked it and they say it is now the most advanced method of sharpening in any Adobe product currently). I do the sharpening on a blank layer with the Opacity set to 20% and set to "Sample All Layers". Giving me something like this...
View attachment 3801
From there I will apply ant creative/artistic effects if I choose to. I did these very quickly just to show the process. It is a quick process if you use presets and actions.
**The sharpening of the last shot is way over done because I used my "Print" preset by accident on a small image.** Fixed, Kind of... ;0
Hi Randy. I haven't had much time to shoot lately. I am thinking that I will set up my camera like yours and Karens. It makes for good sense and with the press on a button I can be be back to single AF.
That's impressive Randy. It sure is working well for you so.when the birds got close to the stuff growing on the dunes it almost never got confused and either found the bird or stayed on the bird if I already had focus
here's an example of a skimmer flying into a lot of contrast and the D500 never lost her. D25 is 50/50 at best. Group AF was 90/10
View attachment 578919
D25 IMO is better anyway but Group AF seems to be by far the best. So far I can't see when I'd switch back to D25. I shot in flight and stationary birds last week, all using Group AF. This was after I started the day using D25 and was struggling to get focus on the skimmers when they cleared the dunes. I tried Group AF (for the 1st time) and problem solved. The D500 has been on Group AF since.I've been reading that the D5 got the 9 point AF back as part of the last Nikon firmware updates. Lots of people are complaining that the D500 was overlooked in this regard?
Thanks Randy for the reply. I think I'm sold on Group AF now. As I said with the setup like you have by pressing a single button I can change over to single point AF. That'll work for me.D25 IMO is better anyway but Group AF seems to be by far the best. So far I can't see when I'd switch back to D25. I shot in flight and stationary birds last week, all using Group AF. This was after I started the day using D25 and was struggling to get focus on the skimmers when they cleared the dunes. I tried Group AF (for the 1st time) and problem solved. The D500 has been on Group AF since.
I agreeRandy, the skimmer picture, all the "busy bits" are behind the bird. Where I see the issue is when something is in the foreground, which makes perfect sense as Group AF is looking for the "closest" thing with enough contrast. Even then, Group still mostly "gets it".