By all means use his chart but do not use his method - the infamous 45 degree method that has caused so many people so many problems.
Now that is a good system - please note it avoids the dreaded 45 degree problem. The actual chart is here:I've not tried it but this chart looks like it would fit the bill - and free.
I see that most of your lenses are zooms. Calibrating for zooms is very problematic as the same correction seldom works for all focal lengths. It works best for primes.Anyone have some tips or experience as to how to do this? I have one lens that is definately missing consistantly.
Any help would be great.
You can test it at each end and the middle and then decide. Generally it is best to just use it for primes, as it is so easy to get it wrong and make things worse.i know its been asked before but is it better to calibrate the wide or the zoom end of the lens? Or maybe average out the two?
I would only trust the AF fine tune outdoors in good light. There are too many variables indoors and you can definitely end up worse off. LV works very well indoors in strange light due to the contrast detect, but this is no different than any other camera.My 35 1.8 is exhibiting some strange behavior in regards to this. For some reason, focus is usually dead on during the daylight outdoors, but indoors or in low light, it's hard to draw a bead.
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind about the LV. About 70% of my shooting is indoors.I would only trust the AF fine tune outdoors in good light. There are two many variables indoors and you can definitely end up worse off. LV works very well indoors in strange light due to the contrast detect, but this is no different than any other camera.
It is not mentioned in any literature published by a camera manufacturer.Never use a target at 45 degrees. This leads to incorrect results.