D7000 and AF fine tune

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Anyone have some tips or experience as to how to do this? I have one lens that is definately missing consistantly.

Any help would be great.
 

Growltiger

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If interested in using a chart here is link to one http://focustestchart.com/focus21.pdf Some guys like to use real objects. A tripod is a must have to do it right. GH
By all means use his chart but do not use his method - the infamous 45 degree method that has caused so many people so many problems.

He even has the nerve to dismiss those that point out his errors as "zealots"!

Basic instructions
Photograph a test chart flat on, using a tripod, aperture wide open. Take a photo at each AF fine tune setting and home in on the best setting. Set it for just that lens.
 
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The 45º target that GH41 refers to also works fine if you don't live in the UK and remember to keep the target close enough to the camera so that the camera's sensor only focuses on the center line that says Focus here (idiomatic American phrase) and not the box outside of the line.
 

Growltiger

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Anyone have some tips or experience as to how to do this? I have one lens that is definately missing consistantly.

Any help would be great.
I see that most of your lenses are zooms. Calibrating for zooms is very problematic as the same correction seldom works for all focal lengths. It works best for primes.
 
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A lot of the zooms are generally shot at one end or the other but they are all pretty close to spot on. It's the 30 Sigma that seems a bit off.
 

Growltiger

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I suspect that it is very wide angle zooms that may need it, as well as primes.

The only zoom I have that needs it is the Nikon 10-24, which needs +5 consistently across the entire zoom range. Setting it to +5 has made a significant improvement. The lens had seemed very soft unless stopped down to f/11.
 
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i know its been asked before but is it better to calibrate the wide or the zoom end of the lens? Or maybe average out the two?
 
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My 35 1.8 is exhibiting some strange behavior in regards to this. For some reason, focus is usually dead on during the daylight outdoors, but indoors or in low light, it's hard to draw a bead.

I use an SB-900 as well, and sometimes -7 AF fine tune will do the trick, other times -3, and other times I haven't a clue. Whatever the case AF is in another league compared to my D5000, which I couldn't get to focus accurately indoors to save my life.
 
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AF tuning should only be done with good lighting conditions with a high contrast target. Otherwise the results will not be repeatable or useful. In poor light sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you don't.
 
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My 35 1.8 is exhibiting some strange behavior in regards to this. For some reason, focus is usually dead on during the daylight outdoors, but indoors or in low light, it's hard to draw a bead.
I would only trust the AF fine tune outdoors in good light. There are too many variables indoors and you can definitely end up worse off. LV works very well indoors in strange light due to the contrast detect, but this is no different than any other camera.
 
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I would only trust the AF fine tune outdoors in good light. There are two many variables indoors and you can definitely end up worse off. LV works very well indoors in strange light due to the contrast detect, but this is no different than any other camera.
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind about the LV. About 70% of my shooting is indoors.
 
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I just use an aluminum yard stick at 45 deg and 3 feet away. Put a line for your test target at 18".

Shoot a few frames center AF point, single point focus and see that you are getting the line as the sharpest point. Focus before each shot. Use a lens like the 85 1.8 wide open.

If you front focus, set + into the fine tune.

Recheck and then do some real shots of a picket fence at 6/12/20 feet and make sure lens reaches infinity.

If you set minus in because it back focuses, that is where you can lose infinity.

You may have to turn fine tune off/on depending on the situation, ie scenics or close up.
 
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Never use a target at 45 degrees. This leads to incorrect results.
It is not mentioned in any literature published by a camera manufacturer.


If the target line is placed on the yard stick incorrect results may occur, because the AF is focusing on one of the other marks on the yard stick.

Test Targets/Charts - The most important thing about a test target is that the camera's AF system must consistently focus on only a single thing. Some targets are good and some not so good. If one doesn't have some basic understanding of what a camera's AF system will attempt to focus on then it's possible to mess things up.

Tim Jackson V1.0 - Not good

Tim Jackson V2.0 - Good

Jeffrey Friedl - May be good, haven't tried it. Good info though.
 
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The potential problem with the angled chart is that the thickness of the line may be more than the DOF for a given lens. And it's a known fact that the D7000 focus points are larger than what is shown by the brackets in the viewfinder. A flat chart negates these issues.

Here's some good info from a company that makes a system virtually identical to what Nikon service uses. The videos are worth a look to get an idea of how to do it right.

http://videos.lensalign.com/LensAlign/LensAlign-Video-User-Guide/6830310_fnpyr
 
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