Share Discuss Tabletop Photography Techniques

[Ann_JS]

Earlier on in this thread there was considerable discussion about light sources.

Daylight and tungsten bulbs produce a continuous spectrum.
Although the quantity of light emitted does vary in the different parts of the spectrum the curve is continuous — with no gaps and spikes.

Fluorescent lamps emit a discontinuous spectrum with high spikes in some colours and a total absence of other colours. (Sodium sports field and street lighting push the discontinuous spectrum and colour-rendering problems to the extreme.)

A discontinuous spectrum is not important if you are planning to produce black and white photographs but it can make it very difficult to produce accurate colour reproduction under artificial light. This causes major issues in commercial advertising and product photography.

A low CRI rating is a clear indicator that a full spectrum of visible light is not being emitted.

"Colour-matching" Fluorescents (with a high CRI) do exist. They usually have some additional, and expensive, red phosphors which help to fill the gaps in that part of the spectrum. I have always used these in my darkrooms and studios for general room-lighting but have always felt the need to evaluate final colour prints under natural daylight

If you view your light-source through a diffraction grating (filter), you will quickly see where the spectrum has gaps and ceases to be continuous.

Photoflood bulbs offer a high intensity full spectrum but have a low colour temperature (they are weak at the blue-end) and unfortunately their burning-life is only about four hours.

I have used studio flash (with built-in modelling lamps and an assortment of different reflectors) ever since they were invented. I use them on location too but they are large, heavy and a very expensive investment if you are not going to get extensive use out of them. However the emitted light is consistent and full-spectrum, and the flash-tubes do have quite a long life and are easily changed when they die.
The built-in proportional modelling lights allow you to see exactly what you are doing and to judge the direction, spread and density of the shadows as well as the balance between multiple light-sources.

Inexpensive small flash heads (speed lamps) can also be used for studio work but, without a continuous modelling light, you are left to keep guessing and making numerous tests until you get the Lighting results that you want

LEDs are another solution but only the expensive ones built specially for photography appear to provide good colour-rendering. (I have some regular domestic LEDs in the basement and the emitted light is heavily purple!)

Apart from sturdy but foldable light stands, the one lighting accessory that I would never want to be without is a counterweighted Boom.

A Boom lets you swing and position a top (hair-light), or an overhead back-light (essential for succulent rendering of food shots!), exactly where you need it. The counter-weight prevents the light-head from taking an unplanned nose-dive into your set.

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I have just found this page which has some useful explanatory images of the variations in emitted spectrums.

https://www.waveformlighting.com/fu...MIkZ7ZqMSK7AIVD-DICh0GLAy2EAAYAiAAEgIo5PD_BwE

 

[Mike Buckley]

As I was just now emptying the dishwasher, I realized that the thin, plastic cutting boards that easily bend for pouring chopped food into pots and pans would make nice diffusion material. Not nearly as expensive as so many other diffusion materials.

 

[Clix Pix]

Anyone here ever used a Westcott Ice Light 2? After much research and a discussion with a photographer friend on another site, I've just ordered one to use with my macro/tabletop/closeup photography since I have been needing something in the way of light source beyond what I've already got. I also ordered a tilter bracket with spigot thingy to use on the light stand (already have those) to provide more flexibility in positioning the Ice Light 2. Like Mike, I have limited space here -- no "studio," just my dining table (living room/dining area) or my dresser in the master bedroom (conveniently under a window which gets good afternoon light) or from time to time, the kitchen and a countertop.....

Last winter I "made do" with what I already had and have used natural light as much as possible, too, but this year with winter inevitably approaching and the prospect of doing more macro/closeups/tabletops in the house again, I decided it was time to do something about lighting....

 

[Clix Pix]

I guess nobody here has the Westcott Ice Light 2. Well, let me tell you, it's a really cool (in all senses of the word!) lighting source and I am very pleased with it so far. My very own Light Saber!! LOL! Super versatile and easy to use in just about any situation and in any location that I might find desirable, and the light is very consistent, soft, even daylight, which can be adjusted from fairly dim to fairly powerful, although it won't light up a whole room. I can and will be able to quickly and conveniently use it with a setup on my dining table, a setup on my dresser in the bedroom, a setup on the deck or in the kitchen and probably places which haven't even occurred to me yet. Indoors, outdoors, it is very portable (the battery lasts for about an hour before needing recharging and the battery can either be charged while still in the device and in use or separately in the provided external charger or car charger while another charged battery is quickly snapped into the Ice Light 2 for portability and freedom from cables). This thing is very convenient in that it can be handheld or put on a light stand or tripod (mini tripods work just fine for tabletop setups). Last night, which was the first time I was experimenting with it, when I wanted to try a different angle, at one point I even grabbed a handy Kleenex box to support and elevate it to the level I wanted (too lazy to go back to the armoire to retrieve a mini tripod) -- because of the LEDs being cool (there's a good heatsink in this device!) I didn't have to worry about burning down the house.

The Ice Light 2 is set up and calibrated for daylight but also can be used as a Tungsten light source by using the included plastic snap-on tungsten accessory. One can also easily use standard Rosco or other gels with this thing, too, by positioning them in place with the included clips or even just using a couple of strategically situated pieces of gaffer tape. I haven't tried this so far, though. Additional accessories include a set of barn doors which can be snapped into place and used as effective light modifiers (I don't have these [yet] so can't speak to how well they actually function in use). Of course one can also use various flags and gobos to control the direction and amount of light with this device, too. It already puts out soft, nicely diffused light so no need for diffusion socks or other diffusion devices, although in some situations those could still come in handy.

Definitely this is a different direction in which to go from traditional continuous lighting, strobe lighting or flash lighting and of course there will be situations in which it cannot replace any of those methods, but for me it offers so much in the way of flexibility and versatility, not to mention the fact that it can easily be stored in my armoire when not in use.....an important consideration when living in a small space.

 

[Mike Buckley]

It's good to know you're enjoying your new tool, Connie! I was on vacation when you posted both messages about it and didn't see them until just now. I've looked at several ice lights over the years and couldn't justify the price for the few times I would use it.

When you use a gel such as a Rosco gel, do you have to buy the gel or is the size of the sample gels large enough?

 

[Clix Pix]

Hi, Mike! Yes, when I didn't see a response from you after a couple of days I checked your profile and saw that you hadn't been around here since last Saturday and realized that you were probably out of town on a trip....hope you had a great time!

I haven't yet tried one of my Rosco gels with the Ice Light 2, but yes, I have a set of a dozen or so of the full-sized gels so probably would be wrapping or clipping one of them around my Ice Light, although I suppose it would be possible to use one of the small samples instead, too..... I've got a full sample packet of those as well. I'll have to experiment!

Right now I have still been doing most of my shooting outdoors, figuring that colder weather and wintertime will be along soon enough, so I haven't yet really put my Ice Light 2 through its full paces, just did a few experimental shots and that was about it. I bought it now in anticipation of a lot of use later. Its time to (literally) shine will be throughout the winter months when I am doing more photographic stuff indoors rather than outdoors.....

In thinking about what I wanted to do with lighting, a situation that I didn't address last year but rather "made do" with what I already had since I'd already dropped so much money in changing systems with the expectation of adding a couple or three more lenses along the way, I looked now at all the various options and thought about my limited space (both for actual usage and for storage) here and also what I tend to shoot and how I shoot it. I don't do portraiture, I don't need a setup for that, really, or pocket wizards to control everything. I really don't have the space nor the need (I think) for a full-out studio lighting setup with a couple of strobes, light stands, soft boxes, umbrellas and various accessories such as a beauty dish or a grid or barn doors -- and I do already have light stands and a couple of umbrellas from a long time ago. I came to the conclusion that I don't particularly want to get into something which would require the speed and responsiveness of flash, such as water-drop photography and such (I'll leave that to you! You've already set the bar pretty darned high..... You're the one who does the work and the rest of us get to enjoy the wonderful results! ). Most of my work has been and I daresay will continue to be done under continuous lighting, as there are so many advantages to that when doing a tabletop/still life/closeup/macro......

In looking at all the options online it was very quickly rather overwhelming -- even to someone who already has a general idea about lighting! Times have changed significantly, though, since I last worked with studio lighting in a class.... OK, so there are these sets of "studio lighting," some of which are so low-priced that my suspicions were immediately aroused as to the quality, there are these options of Godox and other lighting products which can be used either on- or off-camera, there are these various LED panels of various sizes and capacities..... AAARGGH!!!

While I was wandering around in this virtual maze, I mentioned it on another site, and a fellow photographer who does happen to do a lot of tabletops/closeups/flat lays, etc., for his wife's crafts endeavors (she sells on eBay I think) and who also works in a place which deals with computer monitors, various types of lighting for photography, etc., etc., commented that he uses the Ice Light 2 plus another light, the name of which I forget now, -- Neo--something? -- because he, too, usually is working in somewhat cramped shooting conditions at home and also has limited storage space, plus at times needs to have additional lighting outdoors as well. I'd never heard of this Ice Light 2 thing so of course ran a search.....and was instantly interested. Lightweight; portable to the max; LED (and therefore cool); battery-operated, thus flexibility in all kinds of ways, both indoors and outdoors. Ticked all my boxes and I went ahead and ordered one from Amazon and it didn't take long after its arrival here for me to decide that, yeah, for my purposes this thing is going to be just dandy!!!!

It is lightweight enough that I can stick it into a small mini tripod/light stand right on the surface where I'm shooting, or I can even just casually stick it on top of a box of Kleenex which I did once to get the correct positioning for the light angle I wanted (and didn't have to worry about burning down the house), or I can put it on one of my light stands from years past...... The amount of light being put out can be controlled, so that one can dim it to what is needed or let her rip full-blast..... It is also nicely diffused so no need for diffusion socks or other devices. LED technology is fantastic -- so cool (literally) and yet so even with the lighting it puts out -- definitely the way to move forward with photographic lighting!

On Amazon there is also a set of barn doors which can be purchased as a separate accessory or along with the device itself as a set (I should've done that right from the get-go, but really didn't know what this thing was going to be like and how well it would work out for me), and one can also purchase extra batteries and/or extra chargers as well; I can see how that would be very useful for someone who is doing most of their shooting on location and who needs to quickly be able to swap batteries in-and-out or who either in-studio or on location may need to fine-tune the direction in which the light is going by using barn doors. You can charge the battery while it is still in place on the device and while you are using the device, too, though, which is a huge plus as far as I am concerned if I am doing something right on the dining table anyway, conveniently near a surge protector into which to plug the thing. With the battery, though, I can also so easily just cart the light, the subject and the whole works off to the deck, the kitchen, the bedroom, no power source needed.....

Thankfully the price has come down somewhat since the Ice Light 2 was initially released, but even so, now, yes, it is still not inexpensive. I weighed all the pros and cons before deciding to go with this and of course it does not rule out my perhaps deciding to add something else to my lighting repertoire further on down the road, too, if the need arises....early days yet! All I can say right now is that I'm really pleased with this thing so far, and quite happy that I have bought one!

 

[Mike Buckley]

It is also nicely diffused

That can be a disadvantage when you want hard light (edges of shadows that are well defined). Maybe use a different light source in that situation.

The Ice Light can also be used for creating swirls of light in an otherwise dark background. You would light the scene using other light sources the way you want it. Use a long exposure that works for that lighting setup. Then move the ice light while the shutter is open to create interesting swirls and patterns of light in the dark background.

 

[Clix Pix]

Yes, I do have other, older light sources that would still be employed when need be, to create sharp shadows or to just fill in a little here-or-there. Small, surprisingly powerful LED flashlights work nicely for that kind of thing, too. In future I may decide I do need something else in addition to the Ice Light 2. Basically, I'm taking the same approach to lighting as I've been with lenses: I wait until I identify a specific need and use for a particular type or focal length and then get it and put it to work. Actually, though, since right now the weather is still pretty nice and I'm still outdoors a lot, I haven't done a lot of indoor tabletop lately, just a couple of experiments with the Ice Light 2, and even at that, one recent tabletop shot I did out on the deck where I utilized natural lighting. That said, one of my experimental shots with the Ice Light 2 came out so nicely that I included it my Week 41 post in my 52-Weeks Challenge.

I've seen some nice examples of using the Ice Light and other similar light wands to create interesting images, but I doubt that I will try that in here. It could be fun out on my deck, though, or on the larger deck that adjoins the community clubhouse building, the one next to mine. One night around a month or so ago I watched a guy practicing a juggling act with two light sabers -- it looked as though it was really fun! He didn't have a camera set up, as I don't think that was his purpose, and although I tried getting a few shots from here, they didn't come out all that well. I was too fascinated just watching him to actually do a decent job with the camera!

 

[Mike Buckley]

Remember to look for Black Friday deals for miscellaneous items that make tabletop photography easier. Even if you don't already have some items on your wish list, check out the sales for helpful tools that you might not have thought about on your own.

As an example, Impact is a brand of relatively inexpensive products used in the studio that are appropriate for tabletop photography always done at home. (I wouldn't recommend the brand for use involving the wear and tear of constantly transporting stuff to and from location.) If you go to B&H and click to view their Black Friday deals, you can then select the manufacturers whose deals you want to see. Impact has a lot of sales that are about 30% to 60% off the regular price.

As an example, I was considering buying a second, small strip softbox for only $75 that normally costs $190. That was until I saw that B&H is offering a used one in great condition for only $50. Then I remembered that a speed ring is required to mount the softbox to a light stand, which costs another $50. (It's not on sale.) Though I plan to expand the size of my makeshift studio, I'm not positive I'll have room for two strip softboxes. So, I'll hold off, especially considering that the used one might still be available once I know for sure if I will have room to use two at the same time.

 

[Clix Pix]

I've used my Westcott Ice Light 2 a few times now and I really am pleased with it. So far it's done what I've needed and wanted. I have now actually purchased a second one, with the barn doors, so now I'm pretty set for many lighting situations, given my limited locations for indoor shooting. I still also use smaller LED flashlights when just a touch of light is added in a particular place, and for my purposes they work just fine, too.

 

[Mike Buckley]

The following article provides helpful tips about designing scenes and using natural light when making traditional food photos:
https://petapixel.com/2020/12/11/tips-for-better-holiday-food-photography/

 

[Clix Pix]

I'm not into food photography but just out of curiosity I looked at the article since I AM into using natural light...... One thing which immediately caught my attention but which was not mentioned in the article is that the photographer was using Replica Surfaces photo surface boards as her "tabletops/countertops" and backdrops..... Cool! I have some of these, too, and when I first looked into them was surprised at how many people use them for food photography or product photography (I would guess mainly on Etsy or Pinterest).

 

[Mike Buckley]

the photographer was using Replica Surfaces photo surface boards

How could you tell? I looked for telltale signs and didn't see any.

The Replica Surfaces products look great but at a cost of more than $75 each they better be good! I like that they are 23" square (the tabletop of my stand is 24" square) but I often use vinyl floor tiles that are 18" square that cost about $3 to $8 each at Home Depot. I could easily lay four of them side by side to make a 36" x 36" tabletop and quickly use a cloning tool during post-processing to eliminate the joints. I would have a wider choice of styles if I bought four tiles that are 12" square to make a 24" square tabletop.

The Replica Surfaces website says foam core is flimsy but that's simply not true if you buy the 1/2" thickness, which is as rigid as wood. A 20" x 30" piece costs about $5 at an arts and crafts store.

 

[Clix Pix]

For years I've been using foam core (and still do when the occasion calls for it) and also I have a collection of various tiles and acrylic surfaces, too. Last year on another site someone mentioned photo boards and there was a brief discussion about them, during which the names Erickson Surfaces and Replica Surfaces came up...... This was prior to my getting my new gear so at the time I didn't investigate further, but the idea made itself at home in my head anyway. Earlier this fall the idea resurfaced and I thought, "ah, before winter sets in and I'm shooting mostly indoors, this would be a good time to check out those surface thingies!" and did so. They are pretty cool, actually, and are versatile because they can be used as either the surface or the background and if you've got two of them, various combinations can produce interesting results as well. The company also provides these little stands which the photographer can use to connect two of them together, but I haven't had much luck with that and prefer to support the background one in other ways.

I recognized them because I've got some of them! Yes, they are expensive but they are very good. Sometimes the square is just a little too small to serve well as a backdrop if one wants or needs to have a fair amount of separation between background and subject, but there are ways around that, so it's not a big issue.

The Replica Surfaces are exactly what they sound like: a photographic replica of, say, distressed wood, shiplap, butcher block or white marble, that is put on a sturdy but lightweight board and the surface is protected against damage from liquids or punctures, etc. Just like other surfaces, though, including vinyl and acrylic, they do need to be dusted off carefully before doing the shoot! I haven't used mine enough yet to notice if there is any possibility of scratching one but I suppose there is. So far I've used them as either a background or as a surface with either another surface board or once I had plain black foam core serving as the background.

Erickson Surfaces takes a somewhat different approach. Their boards are significantly larger and heavier, and they are actually hand-painted surfaces with interesting, gritty texture and such. One side of the board is gritty and the other side is smooth (the customer has choices of which surfaces for each side). I have just one of those, one which is called "Rust," and when I first opened it I was surprised because it seemed very muted, but once under lights or under natural sunlight the surface is definitely very intriguing, providing visual interest without detracting from whatever the subject of the photo is meant to be.

When I looked at the discussion group on FB I was surprised to see how many people use these for crafts, for selling their wares on Pinterest or Etsy -- LOTS of food photographers out there! I can see why these boards appeal to them in particular, since many of the surfaces do replicate tabletops, countertops, backsplashes and other surfaces typically used in kitchens. I haven't run across too many people who are more generalized photographers that shoot for a hobby rather than shooting product photography for promoting their items for sale.

The way I look at it, these things are simply another way of expanding one's shooting possibilities......

 

[Mike Buckley]

The way I look at it, these things are simply another way of expanding one's shooting possibilities......

Yes! Indeed, that's what this thread is all about.

 

[Mike Buckley]

A click-bait article at PetaPixel got me. After reading the article, I pre-ordered the food photography book mentioned in the article. The book is expected to ship April 20, 2021. The return policy allows me to return the book by January 31, 2021. Yikes!

The article: https://petapixel.com/2020/12/15/overcoming-my-harshest-critic-self-sufficient-to-a-fault/

 

[Growltiger]

I think you should be writing the book.

 

[Mike Buckley]

I just now realized that it might be helpful to discuss products that make it easy to photograph subjects that appear to have condensation, drips of water and ice. The primary purpose for using products that artificially produce the desired look is that they remain on the subject a long time, making it a LOT easier to capture the scene exactly as you want it. That's especially true if the condensation, drips of water and ice are on a vertical surface, such as the side of a glass, can or bottle, or if you're trying to photograph the look of ice when real ice would melt while you're making the photo.

Frosted Appearance
A frosted look is one of the two characteristics of condensation on subjects made of glass.

I create the frosted look by applying surf board wax designed for use in cold water to the subject. If the subject can safely be placed in a microwave oven, I do so for a short time to warm up the wax. If that method is unsafe for the subject being used, I use my wife's hair dryer. (Naturally, one of her dryers chose to die while I was using it.) Once the surfing wax is warmed up, I spread it evenly onto the subject's surface with my bare hands. The wax easily washes off both my hands and the subject once I've made the photo.

Some people use matte finishing spray to create the frosted look. I used it once a long time ago but don't remember why I prefer using surf board wax.

Water Droplets
Water droplets are the other characteristic of condensation on subjects made of glass. If you want the subject's surface to have both the frosted look and the water droplets, apply the fake water droplets after creating the frosted appearance.

When the subject is glass or metal and has a vertical surface, such as the side of a beer bottle, add artificial water droplets rather than just pure water. I mix water with clear corn syrup, no more than about 50% syrup and usually about 30% or less. I then put the mixture in a small atomizer and spray it onto the subject's surface. The closer the atomizer is to the subject, the larger the water droplets. I usually spray from two distances to achieve both large and small droplets.

Even if the water in that mixture evaporates from the subject's surface while you are working with the setup, the clear syrup remains on the surface in the shape of droplets.

Ice Crystals
To artificially create the look of ice crystals, I use Ice Powder mixed with water. Ice Powder can be purchased at https://setshop.com/trengrove-studios/. A very small amount of ice powder goes a very long way. It also lasts a very long time whether on your tabletop setup or in the container you used to mix the powder and water. Once I forgot to toss the unused portion of the mixture and realized days later that it looked the same.

Dripping Water
You may want a big drip of water to appear on the side of a subject made of glass or metal along with the condensation that hasn't formed a drip. I use Aqua Gel to make a drip (usually just one drip on a subject). It can also be purchased at https://setshop.com/trengrove-studios/. It's expensive but one bottle will be a lifetime supply and there seems to be no shelf life so long as you keep the lid on it when not in use.

Unlike the artificial frosted appearance, water droplets and ice crystals mentioned above, a drip of Aqua Gel won't last forever on the vertical side of a subject. It's considerably more stable than water but will move slowly. If you're applying it to a vertical surface, get everything else ready in your setup so you can release the shutter immediately after applying the Aqua Gel.

Ice Cubes
Rather than contend with melting ice cubes, purchase fake ice cubes. There are two fundamental kinds -- those that float and those that don't float. Beyond that the fake ice cubes might be either hand made so that no two are alike or machine made so all of them look alike. The cost varies tremendously depending on which kind you buy. I purchased mine (actually, Santa brought them) at https://setshop.com/trengrove-studios but lots of companies offer fake ice cubes.

Examples
The photos displayed below demonstrate the realistic look of the fake products. The first photo displays ice cubes, a frosted look, water droplets, and a drop of juice from the bottom of the slice of orange. The second photo displays the frosted look, water droplets, ice crystals and a large drip of water on the right side of the large bottle.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

 

[Clix Pix]

Very useful and helpful info, Mike! Thanks! I also use glycerin for creating "drops of water," and that works pretty well, too, either dripped from an eyedropper or medicine dropper on to the subject (leaf, flower petal, etc.) or put into a spray bottle and sprayed on for an appearance of "right after the rain."

 

[Palouse]

Next you'll be telling us it's all fake food!