Eos-m

Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
1,299
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Melbourne, FL
I've been playing with this new photographic ball of string for the past few hours. It's a real camera. With the updated firmware and rather straightforward UI it's perfectly useable for walking around type pictures. If you've used a Canon P&S it's not hard to figure your way around the menus.

It feels very solid. The shutter has a very nice, quiet snick sound. (The Olympus designers should be made to work the rear control dial for 12 hours a day for a month so they learn how a dial like that should work.) In Av mode the rear dial controls the aperture and pushing on one side of it changes the mode to adjusting the exposure compensation. And...I never accidentally change the mode of the dial.

The lens is good, the JPGs ok.

Because I have to include a picture I took with it, here's one hand held 1/8 sec @ f2.8, ISO 6400, SOOC, and the camera had no problem focusing.

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IMG_0553 by b_rubenstein, on Flickr

Remember, no IS with the 22mm, and I'm not as steady as I used to be.
 
Joined
Mar 2, 2006
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Wilmington, NC
Glad you started a thread to show what the cam can do but I don't get 1/8 sec and ISO 6400 for a daylight shot? Or is that a night shot? If so then disregard my question...
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2010
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Wolfe City, Texas
I received mine this morning as well. So far I'm favorably impressed with the quality of the jpegs. I've only used it in Av mode and agree with Bruce, the interface is pretty straightforward and the access to the aperture and exposure comp is always available by simply spinning the control wheel and pressing the left or right button to change from aperture to exposure comp.

It looks to me that the Canon prime is an equal to the pany 20 for sharpness - or at least very close. Focusing - well, it's certainly not up to the best u4/3 lens and cameras... it's my impression that it's a little faster than the 20 and it's focusing motor is a lot quieter and smoother in operation than the 20.

I did a very unscientific comparison with the EOS to the E-PL5 with the 20 mounted in low light at ISO 6400 and was a little surprised that the PL5 had finer, less noise that the Canon. That's just my impressions so far. The shot below is just a quick shot at a cemetery that's down the road from where I live and walk through on my walk-abouts. The Bokeh looks like it's pretty good but haven't shot much to tell a lot about it.

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Untitled by Michael Presley, on Flickr


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Untitled by Michael Presley, on Flickr
 
Joined
Oct 20, 2010
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7,922
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Texas, USA
I had a chance to handle it at HCE and it felt very good in my hands. However, I had to pass the deal because the autofocus felt too slow... However, for Canon shooters, it could serve as walk-about as well as a back-up camera that can take the same lenses!
 
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
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1,299
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Melbourne, FL
That's a deep dusk shot. ISO set to auto and noise reduction set to low.

If one were to try one out in a store, there's a good chance it still has the old V1.0.6 firmware and not V 2.0. There's a very significant difference in focus speed. It's still not zippy, but it is useable.

BTW, I calculated that if the M is set to 4:3, instead of 3:2, it will have the same FOV as the 20/1.7. More experiments...
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2010
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Wolfe City, Texas
Mine came with the v2.02 firmware already installed - before I knew that my first impression was "this isn't so bad, it'll be great once I update the firmware..." so now I'm back to "this isn't so bad" :smile:

One other observation I'd add - what possesed Canon to use those little buttons for the straps? Now nothing I have for wrist straps, or any other strap for that matter will work...

Thanks for the FOV tip -
 
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
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Melbourne, FL
One other observation I'd add - what possesed Canon to use those little buttons for the straps? Now nothing I have for wrist straps, or any other strap for that matter will work...

Remove the metal strap attachment gizmos from the included strap and put them on the strap/grip you have. I think Canon did what they did because lots of folks have trouble attaching straps to cameras properly (so the ends don't stick out).

My strap is in the box, because I don't use a strap on "fixed lens" cameras. I carry them in a small belt pouch. Without a strap, the buttons are less annoying than loops or ears for split rings. Also, the plastic grip pad is so small as to not be very useful. I think I'll check the dimensions on the Flipbac #4 grip to see if it will fit over the pad.
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2010
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Location
Wolfe City, Texas
Remove the metal strap attachment gizmos from the included strap and put them on the strap/grip you have. I think Canon did what they did because lots of folks have trouble attaching straps to cameras properly (so the ends don't stick out).

My strap is in the box, because I don't use a strap on "fixed lens" cameras. I carry them in a small belt pouch. Without a strap, the buttons are less annoying than loops or ears for split rings. Also, the plastic grip pad is so small as to not be very useful. I think I'll check the dimensions on the Flipbac #4 grip to see if it will fit over the pad.

I tend to use wrist straps for this kind of camera - I'll play with the option you mentioned - I think I'll end up adding a half case as well.
 
Joined
Jun 1, 2009
Messages
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Texas (KSKF)
+10 For Canon

I say the above because they were very smart to come out of the gates with a fast pancake prime for their MILC system. Sony, Fuji, and Nikon still have yet to do so.

In fact, Panasonic & Samsung are the only other manufacturers with fast pancake primes.

When I say fast, I'm talking ƒ2.0 or quicker.
 
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
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Melbourne, FL
The lens is also very good. With the lens corrections for CA and vignetting enabled, there is no significant color fringing (CA) or smearing in the corners or edges in JPGs. It's much better than the 20/1.7 on the GX1.

I have to admit that I like the challenge of shooting JPGs, so I wind up spending a lot of time trying out different cameras settings. The M has a load of them; more than Olympus even. I have settings for very accurate color with long tonal range, which yields somewhat flat looking images, that can easily be adjusted for more pop, but it just doesn't have an Olympus look setting :frown:
 
Joined
Jun 29, 2009
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1,485
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Florida
The M has a load of them; more than Olympus even. I have settings for very accurate color with long tonal range, which yields somewhat flat looking images, that can easily be adjusted for more pop, but it just doesn't have an Olympus look setting :frown:

Bruce

where are the customization settings for .jpgs?All I find is the standard sharpness, contrast, hue adjustments. Any particular settings for skin tones that you recommend?
 
Joined
Mar 2, 2006
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Wilmington, NC
The lens is also very good. With the lens corrections for CA and vignetting enabled, there is no significant color fringing (CA) or smearing in the corners or edges in JPGs. It's much better than the 20/1.7 on the GX1.

I have to admit that I like the challenge of shooting JPGs, so I wind up spending a lot of time trying out different cameras settings. The M has a load of them; more than Olympus even. I have settings for very accurate color with long tonal range, which yields somewhat flat looking images, that can easily be adjusted for more pop, but it just doesn't have an Olympus look setting :frown:

Hmm, a lot of talk but not many pictures...:cool:
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2010
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Wolfe City, Texas
I took a few shots with the raw and jpeg files being save. The camera vignette correction for the JPEG works pretty good, there's a noticeable amount of vignetting in the raw files. LR 5 has that lens in it's database and does a good job of correcting it as well.
 
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
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Melbourne, FL
Bruce

where are the customization settings for .jpgs?All I find is the standard sharpness, contrast, hue adjustments. Any particular settings for skin tones that you recommend?

Picture Style - Pg 114 manual
Auto Lighting Optimizer - Pg 159
Highlight Tone Priority - Pg 285 (I don't use this one)

For all the Picture Styles, I set Sharpening to 2. The most accurate colors are with Neutral (not Portrait !?). Punchier images, with reasonably accurate color, can be had with Auto or Standard - adjust contrast and saturation to taste. I try to find settings that don't clip highlights or require darker tones to be brought up over a large range of subjects and lighting.

I also set the Auto White balance to +1 Amber; the default was too cold.

Hmm, a lot of talk but not many pictures...

I put the camera on a tripod, point it at something that covers some subject characteristic (my neighbor's backyard is good for this) and take a series of pictures with different values. As soon as I'm done with the science fair stuff, I'll go and take some real pictures.
 
Joined
Jan 23, 2010
Messages
1,335
Location
Northwest Florida
Unfortunately the strap attachments are not rotation limited...I put my own strap on but it likes to get twisted because I guess of how I use my strap. I could try switching to a wrist strap...might work better.

I'm impressed with the 22/2, AF isn't great (read: fast) but it'll be fine for it's intended purpose I guess. Interface is pretty good in Av mode. Auto ISO on, rear dial for aperture, hit it on the side to shift to EC. Good enough.
 
Joined
Jan 3, 2009
Messages
818
Location
Portland
Hmm, a lot of talk but not many pictures...:cool:

I ordered the kit from B+H on July 3, got a shipping notification on July 5, but the tracking still says it would be here until 7/15:mad: How did you guys get your kit so fast? Did you pay for expidated shipping?

Also, is there such a thing as a Eos M to Nikon F mount adapter to try using my Nikon AIS lens on this thing when it finally arrives?
 
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
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Melbourne, FL
Joined
Oct 31, 2008
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San Jose, CA
I bought my EOS-M just before the summer vacation. B&H had the Canon EOSM at $$75 with the 22mm lens. I wanted a small camera with a lens that does not extended out too much. I also wanted an APS sensor. The Fuji Xs are just too expensive for me. So the Canon EOS-M fits the bill.

I like the camera alot more than I thought I would. I took all my pictures in JPEG. The colors, contrast and sharpness from the 22mm lens are quite good. The only complain I have with this camera is the focus (this has been discuss many times on various photography sites). If you shoot static scenes, then this camera is almost perfect. Just forget shooting something that moves...like kids, candid street pictures...etc. In addition, it is hard to get the focus locked in some situation..like backlighting.

It is a good (not great-due to the focusing system) walk-around camera. It is very light and discrete. With 18mp, it has enough resolution for type of printing.

I went to Hawaii/Oahu and shoot primarily 99% with this camera. With a fixed lens, I had to improvise on the wide angle scenes I would like to take. So I took ALOT of pictures and merge into panoramic pictures. Here are some I took during the trip.

Shot most around the Hilton Village resort
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