Few Skateboarding Pictures with my D40x.

Joined
Aug 3, 2009
Messages
66
Location
Corner Brook, Newfoundland, Canada
Hey, did these a while back when I first got my camera. This was about early June.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)


If I could get some C&C it would be great, I am only new, so learning is what I am here for.

I have thick skin, so don't go easy! :biggrin:
 
Joined
Mar 13, 2009
Messages
239
Location
Alabama
Number your pictures for comments.

The first shot would have been great IF you had a face in it. To me it is not a keeper.
The second shot is pretty good, but he got too close to you and lost body parts in the shot.
The third shot is just like the first, no face.

Others will offer comments and most have more experience than I do.
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
1,532
Location
Vernon, NJ
You have some nice shots Geoff. I do a lot of snowboarding photography, which is close to skating obviously and i must agree with Ricky, it is a lot better to have the face in it. Im not saying always though. And yes you are too close in the second one. Question. . . what were you shooting? what lens, any flash? settings?
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
1,532
Location
Vernon, NJ
Thats a much better picture there with the face. But for settings its on the actual camera, well to know while shooting, and then theres the EXIF data, which can be pulled with certain programs. . . The settings, i mean as aperture, shutter speed, exposure comp. . .
 
Joined
Aug 3, 2009
Messages
66
Location
Corner Brook, Newfoundland, Canada
1.Camera: Nikon D40X
Exposure: 0.002 sec (1/500)
Aperture: f/4.5
Focal Length: 32 mm
Exposure: 0.00
ISO Speed: 200
Exposure Bias: 0 EV
Flash: Off, Did not fire

2.Camera: Nikon D40X
Exposure: 0.002 sec (1/500)
Aperture: f/5.6
Focal Length: 55 mm
Exposure: 0.00
ISO Speed: 280
Exposure Bias: 0 EV
Flash: Off, Did not fire

3.Camera: Nikon D40X
Exposure: 0.001 sec (1/800)
Aperture: f/16.0
Focal Length: 55 mm
Exposure: 0.00
ISO Speed: 640
Exposure Bias: +1/3 EV
Flash: No Flash
 
Joined
Nov 14, 2005
Messages
1,594
Location
Winter Haven, florida
Not bad. I shoot some bicycle jumping and tricks- about the same as this. Watch your backgrounds. Try getting lower, or higher- can make the perspective more interesting and help with controlling the background. Think about your light- these same shots taken with a dramatic sky, a sunset, etc would jump to a whole new level. Keep your shutterspeed up- some of these show some motion blur. Of coarse you may want motion blur to artistically imply motion, but if you want these sharp keep your shutterspeed above 1/500. Don't be afraid to bump the iso up a little. You can "fix" noise with post processing, you can't fix motion blur. I would keep my aperature wide open, you do not need f16 here- helps blur out the background and makes your subject pop out a little. Very few shots like these work if we can't see the face. You may want to try to get some of the details as well- move in really close- sometimes just a foot, or a wheel, can tell a story as well.
Good start- keep shooting.
Gary
 
Joined
Aug 3, 2009
Messages
66
Location
Corner Brook, Newfoundland, Canada
I will have to remember that about a nice background. I think it would be awesome in a sunset or something. Thanks for the help, I will have to go out and try some more things tomorrow, pouring down rain today..

And is this what you are talking about for something really close? Or do you suggest closer?

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
1,532
Location
Vernon, NJ
Now Geoff, that is what i was looking for (the data) but Gary beat me to it with everything i wouldve said.

Now that photo. Thats really too close. Personally, i dont like real close ups such as that. You should be able to see the entire rider and a sense of what theyre doing. I know personally that, that is how magazines feel having worked with some over the past year. You should, if possible almost always have a face in it. That there is a focus on the board really, when it should be the rider.
 
Joined
Oct 3, 2008
Messages
1,615
Location
Leiria
A tip from someone who has zero experience in this kind of shooting but likes to see skateboarding photography: shoot as wide angle and get as close as possible (while getting the whole rider), from a low angle. You'll get more dramatic shots. You may try to use the flash for filling.

Other than that, I have no idea how it's done. :tongue:
 
Joined
Nov 14, 2005
Messages
1,594
Location
Winter Haven, florida
I will have to remember that about a nice background. I think it would be awesome in a sunset or something. Thanks for the help, I will have to go out and try some more things tomorrow, pouring down rain today..

And is this what you are talking about for something really close? Or do you suggest closer?

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
Either include the whole rider- or get reallllllyyyyyy close. I measn like the truck filling the entire frame with some dust flying off the wheels- these are really tough to get.
Gary
 
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
3,613
Location
Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario
Good points over all.

I think the comment about shoot closer could be explained by fine tuning it to this point: Shoot close and crop close so that only the person and board is in the frame.

Sean Martin shoots a lot of snowboarding, with tricks. You can find some examples of shooting close, and shooting wide, here http://www.seanmartinphoto.com/Sports/568743

Keep trying and keep posting. It (and you) really will get better with practice and feedback.
 
Joined
Jun 13, 2008
Messages
634
Location
Old Bridge, NJ
Knowing the settings came sometimes help people to critique the work. I know Charlie and also shoot snowboarding/skateboarding frequently. As per your shots, i agree with what others said on the first three. Your fourth attempt was farrrr better. I think you could have helped to isolate the rider better by opening up your aperture a bit. anything less than 5.6 is going to really start to isolate your rider from the background and help to reduce distracting elements in you background. I'm a little unsure why you chose to do a -4/3 exp bias. I almost never mess with it unless im shooting into the sun. Just curious as to why ya did it? Anyway, nicely done on the 4th attempt. Always best to have the action coming at you or atleast have some faces in the photo. keep at it.
 
Joined
Jun 13, 2008
Messages
634
Location
Old Bridge, NJ
That's another good point about getting close with a wide angle. To add to it, get lowwww. Wide angle shots plus a low perspective can make a trick or shot feel and look much larger and more dramatic than it actually is.

Here's an example of this from something i took this past winter. In all reality he's probobly only 6 feet up...maybe 7...but he looks a good bit higher because i was laying in the snow.
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)


Low angle + wide vertical = 10 year old boosting huge as opposed to the 3-3 1/2 feet that this trick actually was.
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)


btw, i personally think that's a cool shot of the skate board and feet...i might crop the left in a little tighter so you nitoce the shadow a bit more...maybe see what it looks like in b/w and play with the channels. Good luck next time out!
 

Latest posts

Links on this page may be to our affiliates. Sales through affiliate links may benefit this site.
Nikon Cafe is a fan site and not associated with Nikon Corporation.
Forum post reactions by Twemoji: https://github.com/twitter/twemoji
Copyright © 2005-2019 Amin Forums, LLC
Top Bottom