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Few Skateboarding Pictures with my D40x.

Discussion in 'Sports Photography' started by GeoffByrne, Aug 7, 2009.

  1. Hey, did these a while back when I first got my camera. This was about early June.

    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

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    If I could get some C&C it would be great, I am only new, so learning is what I am here for.

    I have thick skin, so don't go easy! :biggrin:
  2. Ricky


    Mar 13, 2009
    Number your pictures for comments.

    The first shot would have been great IF you had a face in it. To me it is not a keeper.
    The second shot is pretty good, but he got too close to you and lost body parts in the shot.
    The third shot is just like the first, no face.

    Others will offer comments and most have more experience than I do.
  3. Thanks for the comments, and I will remember next time to number them.

    This was back when I first got my camera, took a few today too I will upload them tomorrow.
  4. You have some nice shots Geoff. I do a lot of snowboarding photography, which is close to skating obviously and i must agree with Ricky, it is a lot better to have the face in it. Im not saying always though. And yes you are too close in the second one. Question. . . what were you shooting? what lens, any flash? settings?
  5. Thanks, I will be shooting snowboarding in the winter.
    Shooting my D40x, 18-55mm kit lens, no flash. As for settings, I don't know how to tell? :p 
  6. This one was taken yesterday.
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  7. Thats a much better picture there with the face. But for settings its on the actual camera, well to know while shooting, and then theres the EXIF data, which can be pulled with certain programs. . . The settings, i mean as aperture, shutter speed, exposure comp. . .
  8. Thanks.
    I use CS4, and upload with Flickr.
    I am not sure how to check the data? When I find out, I will post.
  9. Camera: Nikon D40X
    Exposure: 0.003 sec (1/400)
    Aperture: f/7.1
    Focal Length: 105 mm
    ISO Speed: 100
    Exposure Bias: -4/3 EV
    Flash: No Flash

    That what you are looking for?
    Thats for the one I just posted.
  10. 1.Camera: Nikon D40X
    Exposure: 0.002 sec (1/500)
    Aperture: f/4.5
    Focal Length: 32 mm
    Exposure: 0.00
    ISO Speed: 200
    Exposure Bias: 0 EV
    Flash: Off, Did not fire

    2.Camera: Nikon D40X
    Exposure: 0.002 sec (1/500)
    Aperture: f/5.6
    Focal Length: 55 mm
    Exposure: 0.00
    ISO Speed: 280
    Exposure Bias: 0 EV
    Flash: Off, Did not fire

    3.Camera: Nikon D40X
    Exposure: 0.001 sec (1/800)
    Aperture: f/16.0
    Focal Length: 55 mm
    Exposure: 0.00
    ISO Speed: 640
    Exposure Bias: +1/3 EV
    Flash: No Flash
  11. Not bad. I shoot some bicycle jumping and tricks- about the same as this. Watch your backgrounds. Try getting lower, or higher- can make the perspective more interesting and help with controlling the background. Think about your light- these same shots taken with a dramatic sky, a sunset, etc would jump to a whole new level. Keep your shutterspeed up- some of these show some motion blur. Of coarse you may want motion blur to artistically imply motion, but if you want these sharp keep your shutterspeed above 1/500. Don't be afraid to bump the iso up a little. You can "fix" noise with post processing, you can't fix motion blur. I would keep my aperature wide open, you do not need f16 here- helps blur out the background and makes your subject pop out a little. Very few shots like these work if we can't see the face. You may want to try to get some of the details as well- move in really close- sometimes just a foot, or a wheel, can tell a story as well.
    Good start- keep shooting.
  12. I will have to remember that about a nice background. I think it would be awesome in a sunset or something. Thanks for the help, I will have to go out and try some more things tomorrow, pouring down rain today..

    And is this what you are talking about for something really close? Or do you suggest closer?

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  13. Now Geoff, that is what i was looking for (the data) but Gary beat me to it with everything i wouldve said.

    Now that photo. Thats really too close. Personally, i dont like real close ups such as that. You should be able to see the entire rider and a sense of what theyre doing. I know personally that, that is how magazines feel having worked with some over the past year. You should, if possible almost always have a face in it. That there is a focus on the board really, when it should be the rider.
  14. Alright, gotcha.
    Learning something new everyday!
  15. jpfigueiredo


    Oct 3, 2008
    A tip from someone who has zero experience in this kind of shooting but likes to see skateboarding photography: shoot as wide angle and get as close as possible (while getting the whole rider), from a low angle. You'll get more dramatic shots. You may try to use the flash for filling.

    Other than that, I have no idea how it's done. :tongue:
  16. Either include the whole rider- or get reallllllyyyyyy close. I measn like the truck filling the entire frame with some dust flying off the wheels- these are really tough to get.
  17. Good points over all.

    I think the comment about shoot closer could be explained by fine tuning it to this point: Shoot close and crop close so that only the person and board is in the frame.

    Sean Martin shoots a lot of snowboarding, with tricks. You can find some examples of shooting close, and shooting wide, here http://www.seanmartinphoto.com/Sports/568743

    Keep trying and keep posting. It (and you) really will get better with practice and feedback.
  18. Knowing the settings came sometimes help people to critique the work. I know Charlie and also shoot snowboarding/skateboarding frequently. As per your shots, i agree with what others said on the first three. Your fourth attempt was farrrr better. I think you could have helped to isolate the rider better by opening up your aperture a bit. anything less than 5.6 is going to really start to isolate your rider from the background and help to reduce distracting elements in you background. I'm a little unsure why you chose to do a -4/3 exp bias. I almost never mess with it unless im shooting into the sun. Just curious as to why ya did it? Anyway, nicely done on the 4th attempt. Always best to have the action coming at you or atleast have some faces in the photo. keep at it.
  19. That's another good point about getting close with a wide angle. To add to it, get lowwww. Wide angle shots plus a low perspective can make a trick or shot feel and look much larger and more dramatic than it actually is.

    Here's an example of this from something i took this past winter. In all reality he's probobly only 6 feet up...maybe 7...but he looks a good bit higher because i was laying in the snow.
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    Low angle + wide vertical = 10 year old boosting huge as opposed to the 3-3 1/2 feet that this trick actually was.
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    btw, i personally think that's a cool shot of the skate board and feet...i might crop the left in a little tighter so you nitoce the shadow a bit more...maybe see what it looks like in b/w and play with the channels. Good luck next time out!
  20. Thanks fellas!
    And I am not sure why the exposure bias was set at -4/3. Someone must have fooled with it before me..
    I will try and open my Aperature a bit more and get something more solid.

    Love getting help like this.
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