Filter for street lights??

[peabrain]

When i try and do some street pictures i always get flares and huge white spits and starts from street lights.
So i have been trying to figure out if there is a filter, i can use to tone down the light from street lamps. (so i can get better exposure on the rest in the picture)
ps i can post an example if needed.

 

[Mitchell]

Show us an example.

As a rule, filters just worsen issues with flair and ghosting.

 

[peabrain]

These should be 0.7 ev apart.

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[Mike Buckley]

One way to handle this situation is to use a tripod and take several shots to ensure that at least one of them records the lights as you like them and at least another one records the rest of the scene as you like it. Then manually merge the two images during post-processing so you have the best exposure of both parts of the scene. Another way to handle it is to use your camera's HDR capability to capture several images if it has it and then post-process them using standard HDR practices.

 

[peabrain]

Thx for the tip,
i shot in multi-bracket mode this time with 3 pictures with 0.7 EV.
(also shot from a tripod)

i attempted to set my camera up for a decent exposure, but then the light will be blown out in the higher EV shot.

Usually i love a good challenge in learning something, but with this i would love if a filter could help me out a little so i can focus more on composition, since it is a department where i have A LOT to learn.

 

[Chris101]

There are filters, commonly used in astronomy that filter out streetlamps and other sources of light pollution. aboutthe only reasonablr one I’ve seen is the Hoya “starscape” filter, which does a decent job of cutting the unwanted light, but for hundreds of dollars you can remove 90% of high and low pressure sodium, mercury and many common white LEDs.

Be careful, these filters often have uncoated surfaces, and are touch sensitive.

 

[peabrain]

thx for the tip currently considering the hoya filter.
But i may end up giving it a short delay, due to a possible deal might show up. In the form of a water damaged z6 possibly for a steal, the plan would be to fix it, and then end up doing a full spectrum mod to it and have a clip in filter.
(no clip in found for the Z50 wich i am considering selling atm)

 

[Butlerkid]

You are selecting scenes with VERY extreme contrast, which forces you to choose between getting some details in the dark areas or over exposing the bright areas. Much better to photograph scenes like this in early morning or the "blue hour" when contrast is much less.

When exposure bracketing, you can use 1 or even a 2 stop deviation. I often take 5-7 shots of at least 1, 1.5 or 2 stops when photographing churches where the sunlight coming in from the windows washes out the details in the stained glass. Without exposure bracketing, these stained glass windows would look mainly white....

 

[peabrain]

will try that next time
last time i did 5 and 3 shots 0.7 EV apart, but also have learned that even a very slight fog that i had last time. Will result in light getting blown out faster thus making it look worse.
My plan is tonight there should be a good chance of getting good testing in.

 

[Luke_Miller]

One way to handle this situation is to use a tripod and take several shots to ensure that at least one of them records the lights as you like them and at least another one records the rest of the scene as you like it. Then manually merge the two images during post-processing so you have the best exposure of both parts of the scene. Another way to handle it is to use your camera's HDR capability to capture several images if it has it and then post-process them using standard HDR practices.

Exactly. The situation is very much like what I experience doing real estate interior shots when a bright window is in the scene. Expose for the highlights, shadows and mid-tones and merge to HDR.

 

[TonyW]

If you are unable to take advantage of multiple shots and combining them to get the best image how far have you played with the image in your editing software?

Of course it will not be able to control things that are truly blown (you will get no detail) but it may help improve an image where there is some flare with detail underlying.
Quick edit of your posted JPEG in Adobe Camera Raw compared to original - does it look improved to you? For this image I adjusted highlights and shadow points and also modified the white balance - for me it is a little improved but YMMV
Hopefully you are capturing raw data which may give you a little more editing room.

Also if you can time your captures to the "Blue Hour", you may find that you get a better chance of balancing the light

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[peabrain]

always shot in raw files. gave up on jpeg well before getting a camera.

 

[kilofoxtrott]

On night time photography I switch to M-mode. Normally I use the aperture range from f/4 to f/5.6 and exposure from 1/15 to 1/60 seconds.
ISO 200 and RAW of course.

Kind regards
Klaus

 

[peabrain]

Just a partial update
got the hoya starscape filter as a test, and find the results fairly good.
just a couple of test shots outside the city last night.

in the city it also performs ok just have to be extra carefull of the streetlamps not causing flare.
(all settings the same and locked down in WB and presets in LR)

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