If I remember correctly (my work is at home but I am not), I always convert from raw wth my ussusal converter before loading tiffs into Helicon.
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Focus bracketing on Sony?
- Thread starter Allan
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That's certainly a viable method and is the method that gives you total control of the conversion process. You could instead turn the raw files directly over to Helicon Focus and let it do the raw conversion. However, you would have control only over the six parameters pertaining to raw conversions located in the Preferences section. I will probably settle on using the latter method for ease and convenience except for the occasional situation when I find that I really do need to take over complete control of the raw conversion process.
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I do that also, as it apparently also includes lens corrections in the profile. Although, I'm not sure if correcting the file on conversion improves or hinders the stacking software.
I don't know for sure either, but I doubt that it affects the stacking process. Instead, it gives the user control from the outset of at least some of the standard characteristics rather than waiting until the output file is produced to take over that kind of control.
You don't have to have a camera or external device to automate taking the images. Some of my most successful stacks were made by manually focusing and shooting a set of images. My favorite method before acquiring a Z6 was to use a D5500 in the touch-and-shoot live view mode and touching various points where I wanted a shot focused.
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Actually, it's not possible to automate taking them without a camera or external device. Otherwise, you can only do it manually.
Yup, I said that wrong. What I meant to say is "You don't have to have a camera or external device to automate taking the images in order to do focus stacking."
But I enjoyed the Bordeaux
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I wass trying hard to use my Sony for FS so I could go Nikonless. However, Camfi was such a pain and so slow I returned it to Amazon and will keep my Z7 for the time being.
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This is old now and I presume everyone has figured out how image stacking or focus stacking works.
First, no, you typically cannot generate really good image stacks manually. You simply don’t have the precision to make small enough, accurate enough adjustments to create a set of images that won’t have voids and artifacts. As with most things - doing it is easy, doing it well is not.
Helicon Focus just renders the set of images into a single image. If you send it TIF files your adjustments will be embedded and used for the rendering. And if you send tifs you’re limited in your output – you cannot send in tif files and get out a .dng file.
If you sent it RAW files Helicon Focus ignores, from what I’ve seen, your post-processing. But you can generate a .dng output so you can sync your post-processing.
Helicon Remote is software that DOES automate the stacking process, and it works well. I believe the setting boundaries method it uses (front and back) is better than the start from here and and HOPE method Nikon uses. You either have stacks that aren't deep enough, or lots of wasted images on the back end.
But, Helicon Remote is SLOW. As in MULTIPLE seconds between shots. It can create good image set, though. But outdoors, the slowness significantly increases the likelihood that a tiny breath of air will move and ruin your stack.
The lack of focus stacking ability is probably the biggest thing making me hesitate to move to Sony at this time.
First, no, you typically cannot generate really good image stacks manually. You simply don’t have the precision to make small enough, accurate enough adjustments to create a set of images that won’t have voids and artifacts. As with most things - doing it is easy, doing it well is not.
Helicon Focus just renders the set of images into a single image. If you send it TIF files your adjustments will be embedded and used for the rendering. And if you send tifs you’re limited in your output – you cannot send in tif files and get out a .dng file.
If you sent it RAW files Helicon Focus ignores, from what I’ve seen, your post-processing. But you can generate a .dng output so you can sync your post-processing.
Helicon Remote is software that DOES automate the stacking process, and it works well. I believe the setting boundaries method it uses (front and back) is better than the start from here and and HOPE method Nikon uses. You either have stacks that aren't deep enough, or lots of wasted images on the back end.
But, Helicon Remote is SLOW. As in MULTIPLE seconds between shots. It can create good image set, though. But outdoors, the slowness significantly increases the likelihood that a tiny breath of air will move and ruin your stack.
The lack of focus stacking ability is probably the biggest thing making me hesitate to move to Sony at this time.
I recently discussed in another thread the importance of using correct terminology and your statement that accidentally misleads readers is a perfect example of why I believe that. Helicon Remote automates the bracketing process that precedes the stacking process; Helicon Remote doesn't do the stacking process. The company's website even states (correctly) that it "automates focus (DoF) bracketing." https://www.heliconsoft.com/heliconsoft-products/helicon-remote/
Again, readers can be misled when incorrect terminology is used. I know of only one camera brand that does focus stacking -- Olympus. Many cameras including those made by Nikon, Canon, Olympus and others do focus bracketing.
If you meant to write that Sony cameras do not do focus bracketing, you are correct. Indeed, a year ago when I decided upon my first new camera system in ten years, I immediately eliminated the Sony brand from consideration because none of their cameras did focus bracketing. That's still true today even with their new flagship mirrorless camera that, otherwise, seems to be absolutely top-notch.
EDIT: I just now noticed that this was your first post. Welcome to the Cafe! I hope you continue to contribute to the forum.
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Yes, Helicon remote handles the capturing of the images. Helicon Focus (or Zerene and a few others) does the rendering of the multiple images into a single output with the increased depth of field. But, the question for me is HOW do the people BUYING the Sony cameras - or NOT buying them because they're missing the capability to capture a set of images for stacking - get Sony to ADD the necessary firmware to their current bodies? At LEAST on the Alpha 1?
Considering that not a single camera made by Sony has the focus-bracketing capability, I doubt that consumer pressure will be sufficient to motivate Sony to add it using a firmware update unless consumer pressure first motivates the company to produce a camera that does focus bracketing at the time of its initial release.
For me it doesn't matter one whit, since I don't do focus bracketing/focus stacking anyway, and I bought my Sony A7R IV without concern one way or the other and eventually when I buy the Alpha 1, again the same will apply. I don't know whether or not it is even possible to add that kind of feature in firmware or software, anyway, which may be why Sony hasn't done it retroactively in the earlier cameras. No idea, either, why they didn't offer it in the A1, but they do offer Pixel Shifting, which may or may not be something similar. ??
Pixel shifting is completely different from focus bracketing.
There are some similarities, though, apparently, but I haven't actually experimented with it to know exactly how it does work, which is why I put question marks at the end of my post. Do Nikon cameras have pixel shifting? What exactly IS it, then? If not available in Nikon cameras, maybe one of the other Sony folks on here may be able to answer if they've used pixel shifting.
Explanation of pixel shifting -- https://petapixel.com/2017/11/18/testing-sonys-new-pixel-shift-feature-a7r-iii/
I'm not aware of any Nikon camera that does pixel shifting. Best to check with someone that keeps up with gear better than I do.
I'm not aware of any Nikon camera that does pixel shifting. Best to check with someone that keeps up with gear better than I do.
They've made some improvements in pixel shifting since the A7R III, though.....that article is old, but thanks! Actually, I've got a book here and links to a couple of online guides about the A7R IV and just haven't taken the time to really look into the details about pixel shifting since I suspect it is not a feature that I would ever use anyway, any more than I would use focus bracketing/focus stacking.
Sony pixel shifting works great. You only need it when you need a huge file. Everything needs to be locked down tight. The slightest bit of motion, and I mean the SLIGHTEST bit of motion and it all falls apart. I have never had success with it outside of the studio.
I do some focus stacking, and have kept the nikon d850 for that. Since I process the files differently between the nikon and sony cameras I wanted to focus stack with sony. So I ordered a focus rail, which actually moves the camera. Ordered it last week, should be here soon. I want to try some high mag macro work.
Always neat stuff to play with
Gary
I do some focus stacking, and have kept the nikon d850 for that. Since I process the files differently between the nikon and sony cameras I wanted to focus stack with sony. So I ordered a focus rail, which actually moves the camera. Ordered it last week, should be here soon. I want to try some high mag macro work.
Always neat stuff to play with
Gary
From time to time I've entertained the idea of getting a focus rail since I do a fair amount of macro and closeup work, but so far haven't actually taken the plunge. Although I might not use it for purposes of pixel-shifting or focus bracketing/stacking, it still could be very useful anyway. Got a couple of other items in line ahead of it that I'm interested in purchasing, so it may be a while......
The rail really doesn’t have anything to do with pixel shift imaging. I guess you could do a 4 or 16 image pixel shift at each station as the rail moved forward. That would be nuts, so I will probably try it sometime. The pixel shift is so motion sensitive I wonder if even a good rail will be stable enough. Time to do some testing.
Gary
Gary
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