Follow up to High ISO NR and JPG(pics included)

Joined
Jun 23, 2009
Messages
352
Location
Red Lion PA
Wanted to post some pics from the game last night. Wanted to do it in a seperate thread because I'd also liek some C&C and any PP tips that can help me improve.


While fairly bright, was getting 1/400 at f2 and around ISO 1600(used Auto ISO), the lights definitely flickered and changed color. Wow, in 6fps sequence first shot was good, next one green, next one white, next one getting back to ok, etc...

Settings:

I set a custom WB using the coffee filter trick, used Auto ISO, and min. SS of 1/400. AF-C and 9 pt dynamic focus. 50 1.8 lens for most of the game but did put the 85 1.8 on for some. I did end up switching to RAW for about the last quarter of the game as I saw I had enough memory card left and to be able to compare basically which would work better for me.

Technique:

This was only the 2nd time shooting BBall, other time was fairly casual affair. I set up under the basket and to the side a little, did soem shotting from the corner but not much. Stayed on knees for 95% of the shooting. Realized a few things, trying to get the girls bring the ball to the point was hard as a lot of bodies get in the way quickly. Also I cut quite a few feet off which made me mad as I know better than that. haha

Took advice from the other thread currently running on baskeball to get rebound shots on foul shots....well, when the one team doesn't miss one foul shot(seriously) and the other team only gets to the line twice that idea didn't pay off. LOL. A sign though that our team is pretty darn good, and they are.

PP:

Opened the JPGs in ACR using Elements 7.0. At first I was adjusting the WB using the "Temperature" and "Tint" sliders until I got 30 pictures into and realized there was a WB eyedropper and a nice neutral gray curtain in most of the shots....dumba$$...haha. That worked well. Brought the exposure up in most about 1/3 of a stop(shot using +1/3 as well as I fear underexposing the high ISO) Applied some sharpening in ACR Amount of 25, radius of .5 and Luminance NR of about 15. This varied some as I am still learning what works.


Then some levels adjustments and finally USM of 25, 1, 0.

My opinion on the one's I've done so far? I think they are soft. I think they could be better. How much better? That I'm not sure of as I am not experienced enough to know what the PP capablities of me and PSE 7.0 is.

That's where I'd like to get some opinions and advice from you guys.

Do you consider them soft? How much better can they be? What percentage of the look of them was due to my shooting technique/ability and what was is due to and can be fixed still in PP?

Would really appreciate any help.

1.
4255993165_acf41d8c2f_b.jpg
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)


2.
4256754056_15a7e0b2e0_b.jpg
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)


3.
4255992625_bf5299dbce_b.jpg
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)


4.
4256753410_696315010d_b.jpg
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)


5.
4256753116_e394691dda_b.jpg
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2008
Messages
2,017
Location
Tamaqua, PA, USA
Since you noticed it already, I'll say I have to agree that they look a bit soft.

Right or wrong, this is what I do, and it seems to work ok for the amount of images I have to process. I shoot in RAW 100% of the time, then do most of my adjustments in ACR. If the WB is off due to the lights, I will adjust accordingly with the sliders. I generally shoot to slightly underexpose and then adjust up as necessary. This way I don't blow out the highlights. After that, I'll adjust the contrast if needed, and then sharpen. My settings for sharpening in ACR are usually 110-1.8-35. I tend to like the results with these settings. Then I will open the image in PSE6, fix red eye and crop, then convert to JPEG. It sounds like a lot of work, and if I were doing hundreds of photos it probably would be, but I only submit 5-15 shots for the paper so it isn't much for me and I can whip through them pretty quick. Anyway, here is one from last night that was done with these settings.

20100107_0280.jpg
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
3,298
Location
Florida
Comparing flash to ambient only really isnt fair however....

TBH, is sports consideriing the number of images, shooting raw may or may not be too much work....I just dont have time to fuss with raw, and make a concerted effort to get the wb correct in camera so there isnt so much to do.

Using PS is really gonna slow your workflow down...you need to use LR, C1, Bibble or Aperture or some other program that is geared toward working on more than one image at a time. Its just not practical to use PS to do this. I personally would recommend Lightroom. One huge reason is that you can fix one image, and apply those changes to all the images that are shot using the same situation...you can even select the ones where the light cycle is off and just apply the changes to those only.

If you leave your exif intact, we can see just what you are doing....what camera settings, everything. And can be more help.

TBH, you got some great shots. Could they be sharper? Sure, but what camera, lenses, etc are you using? Overall I think you did pretty good! I personally dont care for the flashed look to many sports at all.....but thats just me. It can be done nicely, as you see Steve did it pretty well above so it doesnt SCREAM flash...but as he said...now he has to deal iwth red eye and more shadow issues...and a mixture of color temps between the ambient and the 5260K flash (unless you want to gel them).

Anyway, keep on shooting!
bb
 

Latest posts

Links on this page may be to our affiliates. Sales through affiliate links may benefit this site.
Nikon Cafe is a fan site and not associated with Nikon Corporation.
Forum post reactions by Twemoji: https://github.com/twitter/twemoji
Forum GIFs powered by GIPHY: https://giphy.com/
Copyright © Amin Forums, LLC
Top Bottom