I just have one question on whether a Z6 would be better than a z7. If I would hand hold a Z at ss slow enough to challenge my steadiness would the higher resolution of the z7 show more blur when n image is blown up to say 11 by 14 size?
The simple answer is to rent a Z7 for the weekend.Yes, that is a big issue for me if I want to buy a Z. I have a D850 but use it almost all the time on a tripod. Az6 might be safer but I am used to 45 mp files, especially when I crop.
I have both the Z6 and Z7 at the moment and definitely see every flaw in my technique in the larger files. Also, I definitely see the difference in sharpness captured by my better lenses in those files. The jury is still out on whether my shooting warrants a need for the additional pixels and dynamic range of the Z7, but it sounds like yours might. If your handholding technique is better than mine (and it probably is!), you may very well not need a tripod as often, but IBIS is not a substitute for a completely supported camera, so I bet you'll still need it at times.Yes, that is a big issue for me if I want to buy a Z. I have a D850 but use it almost all the time on a tripod. Az6 might be safer but I am used to 45 mp files, especially when I crop.
Allan,Andy, on one hand you make me think a Z6 is better for me to hide my flaws.
On the other hand, you make me feel the sharpness of the Z7 is worth it over the Z6.
I know it was not your intention but you left me just as confused. I guess there is no one answer, but I need to figure out what is right for me.
BTW, I don't think my hand holding is better than yours. I use a tripod on 95% of my shots. (I use an 800 mm lens most of the time - BTW2, I don't plan to use long lenses on a Z)
I wonder if a local store would have a Z7 you could try out. If you have an XQD card for your D850 you could take it and then bring the photos home to inspect for camera shake. I have no experience with the Z7, but the Z6 is amazing handheld. The IBIS is very good. Perhaps it would be as helpful on the Z7.Oh I am definitely keeping the D850. The z camera would be an extra. I would not using it for moving wildlife. If I did not think photos would suffer from user shake I would get the z7.
This is a good suggestion for Allan, who I gather has not experienced IBIS before (except, perhaps when pointing his cameras at large white wading birds). In fact, when I had a spare moment several months ago prior to taking the plunge into New Z-Land, I brought my D750 and a non-VR 300mm lens into the store and made photos of gaffer tape hanging from the far wall with my body and the same settings on a Z7. Like you, Terri, I already had expectations of IBIS performance from the relatively high bar set by Olympus, so while this quick and informal test did not disappoint, it wasn't really necessary. Could be very worthwhile to see this for others, though.I wonder if a local store would have a Z7 you could try out. If you have an XQD card for your D850 you could take it and then bring the photos home to inspect for camera shake. I have no experience with the Z7, but the Z6 is amazing handheld. The IBIS is very good. Perhaps it would be as helpful on the Z7.
No.I agree with you Gary - but if I am on the edge of shaking due to low iso more blur would show on the z7?
The corollary: if you don’t print big and aren’t relying on aggressive crops, there is no need for the higher pixel density of either a D8xx or a Z7. Said another way, if you’re happy with your 20x30 prints from a 24MP sensor, you don’t need more pixels.No.
If you shoot the d6 and the d7 side by side and print both to 11x14 the motion blur in the d7 will not be worse. It will look worse if you pixel peep 1:1, but not if both images are displayed at the same size. I handhold my d850 all the time and print big, 40x60" is a common size. If a lower resolution camera would give me a better image, I would use it.
+1One more thing to throw out there regarding shooting at slower shutter speeds. With the normal mechanical shutter....the affect of shutter shock is real. When shooting at shutter speeds slower than 1/200, I turn on the EFCS to mitigate. Depending in your want/desire you can also shoot full electronic shutter.
That doesn't work for me all the time based on the environment and conditions I shoot in.