Help me create a "portable studio"

[Uncle Frank]

I don't have a studio, or even room for one at home. But that's OK, as I prefer environmental portraits, or using my 85/1.4 to dissolve busy backgrounds into cream. So I'm trying to figure out how to use my growing kit of lighting for a portable studio. Here's my list of gear.

an SU800
(2) SB800s and an SB600
(2) Vivitar DF200 slaves
a softbox and numerous ABBC bounce cards
(2) 8' flash stands with flash/umbrella mounts
(2) 36" umbrellas
(2) 250W Tungsten Photo Floodlights with Reflectors
(2) 6' stands

I'm thinking an sb800/umbrella for the mail light, an sb800/Lumiquest softbox for the fill light, and the sb600 with a homemade snoot (or just tightly zoom the flash head) for a hair light. Since the su800 commander will control 3 groups, I'll use ittl for the main and fill lights, and a manual setting for the hair light. And, depending on the background, I could use a floodlight to brighten the background. Does that make sense?

I also need to define a rig and develop a simpler approach for outdoor wedding formals.

Any thoughts will be appreciated.

 

[Muonic]

Frank,

I have a set-up very similar to yours, and the only thing that has really been a problem for me is the hair light. I tried using the SB-600 on a (portable) boom style lightstand, but it is just not very stable. I've been thinking about trying a collapsible background, similar to this, so I can use the hair light directly behind the subject (and background) on a regular lightstand. It's more stuff to carry around, but so far it's the only idea I've come up with. Plus, I think it would make the shots look more like something in a studio...if that's what you want. I'm also a bit of a control freak, and like to use all of my flashes in the manual mode. That gives very consistant results, and they are so easy to set up with the SU-800.

Looks like you have a great set-up as it is!

 

[ShaunK]

UF, maybe you've already dones so, but a visit to the strobist.com blog and its accompanying Flickr discussion threads would be very useful on this topic. For what it's worth, I'm also looking into a very basic set up such as yours, and here's my list:
Sb-800
2-3-SB-28's
2-8' lightstands
2-45" umbrellas: one silver/one white w/black removable back (to be used as makeshift softbox), with flash stand adapters
E-bay 16 channel wireless triggers (one transmitter and 3-4 receivers)
Total if bought all new = about $300-$400, but I already have SB-800 and one SB-28.

 

[Uncle Frank]

Thanks for the feedback, David!

... they are so easy to set up with the SU-800.

Yup, and that's the only reason I've gotten into multiple head.

 

[P'Cola-Roy]

Frank, that is almost exactly how I shot this picture.

Here is the setup.

I just didnt use a BG light on that one.

I cant say how the floods will do for the BG. I was having trouble lighting mine so I just got an AB800 to try it out.

EDIT: For outdoors, I would suggest sandbags for the light stands. I busted an SB-600 like that. Umbrellas are like sails.

 

[Daves602]

Frank, I am going to watch this thread because I also have a similar set up. 1 SB800, 2 SB600's, 2 x cheapo batterie slave flashes that respond to a bigger, a few stands a portable backdrop, a 240 volt strobe and slave, 3 umbrellas and a softbox, (nearly said and a partidge in a pear tree!)

 

[Uncle Frank]

Frank, that is almost exactly how I shot this picture.
Here is the setup.

I set my 3 flash rig up in the den this afternoon, Roy. My lighting was a little different from yours. I shot my main light through a white umbrella, used a softbox on the fill light, and I positioned the fill light a few feet to the right behind the camera. Here's a shot of Nancy.

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Then the UPS guy made a delivery, so I drafted him as a model, too -lol.

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But there was too much stuff in the background in the den, so I moved the rig to the living room. No problem... it's nice and portable :biggrin:. The wallpaper in the background worked out real well as a background.


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Multi head flash is cool! But it would have taken me ages to figure out without CLS.

 

[Uncle Frank]

Frank, I am going to watch this thread because I also have a similar set up. 1 SB800, 2 SB600's, 2 x cheapo batterie slave flashes that respond to a bigger, a few stands a portable backdrop, a 240 volt strobe and slave, 3 umbrellas and a softbox, (nearly said and a partidge in a pear tree!)

Hey, Dave, good to see you posting on the Cafe, my friend! I know it's hard to break old habits, but Ithink this place will grow on you. It's a much friendlier site, and we have moderators dedicated to keeping it that way ;-).

You're just missing one item in your kit... an SU800. It makes putting all the other bits and pieces together a snap!

 

[Daves602]

Frank, those shots are up there with the studio guys!, Tell Nancy she's still got it!
SU 800? But doesn't the SB800 act as master if you want it to?

 

[P'Cola-Roy]

SU 800? But doesn't the SB800 act as master if you want it to?

Yes it does Dave. The difference is, the SU allows the flash to be off camera axis if you wish, much easier controlling of your groups and it doesn't send preflashes that cause many people to blink.

 

[Daves602]

Frank, you just cost me $370 Au!

I come in here to check on some old friends and blow me down, I end up spending money :wink:
I am very excited about the SU 800, especially after seeing the pics of Nancy. I have a beauty class from the local technical college coming to my little studio late next week. I do before and after shots of the girls, they work in pairs and do each others make up. I charge very little for a long day, this time there are 2 classes! Oh well, I want to give the girls as much detail and balanced images of their hard work. :smile:
Frank, if you have any extra tips using the SU 800, SB800 and I mentioned I also have a couple of SB600's, I would appreciate the assistance.

 

[Ray C.]

Everything you ever wanted to know about portable lighting...and then some.

http://www.strobist.blogspot.com/

Dave has put together an absolutely fantastic resource and IMO is required reading for any serious location photographer or PJ.

 

[Uncle Frank]

I come in here to check on some old friends and blow me down, I end up spending money :wink:

Cool! One of my favorite things is spending other people's money :biggrin:

I am very excited about the SU 800, especially after seeing the pics of Nancy. I have a beauty class from the local technical college coming to my little studio late next week. I do before and after shots of the girls, they work in pairs and do each others make up. I charge very little for a long day

Heck, you should pay them for the opportunity, you old dog :wink:.

So here's the deal on the SU400. It doesn't make your flash pictures any better. It just makes it easier to take better flash pictures. That may sound a little circular, but here are the advantages.

* You can control up to 3 "groups" of flashes, instead of only 2 groups using a flash as a Commander. That means you can adjust the individual power settings of the main flash, fill flash, and hair light. You can even set the 3 groups in different modes. For example, set the main light in TTL, set the fill light in TTL, but one stop lower than the main light, and set the hairlight in manual, adjusting its output to an appropriate level. Note that I used a 1/64th power setting for the hairlight in Nancy's pics.

* Now that you have your SU800, you don't have to dive into your camera's menus to work the flash. You don't even have to change your camera's flash setting to Commander Mode, or remember to change it back later. Just put the SU800 in the hotshoe and you're good to go. And you can change any of the settings you've selected, after you take some test shots and review the histogram, with a few button presses on the SU800.

* Since the SU800 communicates with the flashes using infra-red, you won't annoy your subjects with a series of light pulses that accompany normal wirelesss CLS. And the SU800 supports FV lock, which allows you to set up once and then eliminate any further pre-flashes.

* Maybe the best selling point... infra-red communications seem much more reliable than visual light communications. Maybe they're higher power, or maybe they bounce off walls and ceilings better, but positioning the outboard flash's sensors isn't nearly as critical as it was when using a strobe as the Commander.

* Oh, and did I mention that you never need to think about camera orientation again? Since there's no flash on your camera, you can change from landscape to portrait mode without concern about casting shadows .

[/QUOTE], this time there are 2 classes! Oh well, I want to give the girls as much detail and balanced images of their hard work. :smile: Frank, if you have any extra tips using the SU 800, SB800 and I mentioned I also have a couple of SB600's, I would appreciate the assistance.[/QUOTE]

Not much to add, since I'm still in the discovery phase myself. I'd suggest you use the more powerful sb800 as your main, and the sb600s for your fill and hair lights. Make sure you get some practice in before the eyecandy shows up. You need to figure out how you're going to arrange your 3 lightstands, and which diffusers you're going to use.

 

[j_b_l]

Frank,

I did exactly what you're thinking about...but I ended up buying a Sekonic L-358 light meter. I still controlled all of the flashes through the SU800. but the light meter was how I set the power levels. I found that TTL was great for 1 flash, but when I wanted to get a 3:1 key:fill ratio, I found that TTL didn't give me consistent results...so I bought a light meter. It helped tremendously in my shooting. You can pick them up for about $100 used...best $100 I have ever spent. They do add a little to the setup time, but when I'm setting up all the lights, another 1-2 minutes per light is nothing...and then I'm sure of the exposure...JMHO...

 

[joey]

Hi, Frank!
It's nice to see your lovely wife. Nice shots you have with your set-up.
If I may make some suggestions...
Using a small light source as hairlight (or rimlight) for portraits is difficult. It's too harsh. It's not the ideal light source for hair. Used as a kicker or rimlight, it mercilessly shows off every pore and skin imperfection. It can also cast a secondary shadow which is problematic, specially for group shots.
I believe you'll find a larger light source more versatile and effective as a hair or rimlight. This can be done by bouncing the light off the ceiling (provided there's a ceiling that's neutral in color and low enough). The difficulty with this is controlling the light spill, specially on the background. Using a softbox or a strip, I think, would be best.
Looking at your set-up. I'd use the SB800 and umbrella as main light. The other SB800 and softbox (don't know how big your lumiquest softbox is. I'm hoping it's 2'x2' or 1'x3' atleast) as hair/rimlight on a boom (for versatility in light placement). The SB 600 bounced on a relatively large flat (foamcore) or another umbrella as fill light.
On location, outdoors, when portability and quickness in set-up is vital, I use 2 SB800s bounced off an umbrella and a reflector for fill. Nothing beats using 1200 w/s studio lights with a beauty dish and portable power packs. Time and assistants permitting.
Regards.

Joey
http://www.moodystills.com/

 

[Uncle Frank]

Hi, Frank!
Using a small light source as hairlight (or rimlight) for portraits is difficult. It's too harsh. It's not the ideal light source for hair. Used as a kicker or rimlight, it mercilessly shows off every pore and skin imperfection. It can also cast a secondary shadow which is problematic, specially for group shots.
I believe you'll find a larger light source more versatile and effective as a hair or rimlight. This can be done by bouncing the light off the ceiling (provided there's a ceiling that's neutral in color and low enough).

Thanks for the excellent advice, Joey. As I reported on another thread, I received similar comments about the hair light on another site, and gave bouncing it a try. Here was the result.

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I'm afraid my softbox is one of those diminutive things designed to velcro over the head of a flash. It's roughly 5x7", which doesn't fit your job description, so I guess I'll stick to bouncing off ceilings.

On location, outdoors, when portability and quickness in set-up is vital, I use 2 SB800s bounced off an umbrella and a reflector for fill.

I'm curious about how you position your flashes outdoors. It would seem that the SB800 I use on a flash bracket would be ideally positioned for fill, as it''s directly above the lens. Do you still use one main light, regardless of the size of the group?

Nothing beats using 1200 w/s studio lights with a beauty dish and portable power packs. Time and assistants permitting.
Regards.

I'm always running out of time, and my wife hits me when I call her my assistant . Thanks for the help, Joey!

 

[Chris101]

...

Nothing beats using 1200 w/s studio lights with a beauty dish and portable power packs. Time and assistants permitting.
Regards.

I'm always running out of time, and my wife hits me when I call her my assistant . Thanks for the help, Joey!

I'm sure he meant the UPS guy. Your wife is obviously the "beauty dish".

 

[Uncle Frank]

This is a shot from the past weekend. Pretty simple set-up: an SB-800 on either side of her bounced into umbrellas and just for fun an SB-600 on the floor behind her directed toward the ceiling.

I'm confused about your setup. People have been advising me that the main should be off to the side, but the fill should be directly over the lens. Wouldn't putting a flash on either side "flatten" the result?

 

[Uncle Frank]

It''s a great smile, and I love the balloons as props. Let's wait for someone who has experience with studio lighting critique the result, but I will note that it looks underexposed.

 

[joey]

As I reported on another thread, I received similar comments about the hair light on another site, and gave bouncing it a try. Here was the result.

Please tell Nancy she has wonderful eyes. So much better light quality on the hairlight. Bouncing the SB800 changes the lighting quality from hard (from a small light source) to soft (from a large light source). Only difficulty in this case is that it now becomes undirectional. Thus, keeping light spill off areas that you want to keep dark, can be a challenge.

QUOTE: I'm curious about how you position your flashes outdoors. It would seem that the SB800 I use on a flash bracket would be ideally positioned for fill, as it''s directly above the lens.

The Sb800, being such a small light source, creates very hard shadows. As a fill light, the best position for it is, as you said, directly above the camera. That way, you minimize the chances of it creating a secondary shadow.
To be honest, on-cam SB800 is a "course of last resort" for me (for color work). While it works very well in filling in the shadows, its harsh and specular nature "kills" the "mood" of the foto. (I prefer to use a reflector whenever it's practical.)
Ideally, a fill light should be a large (soft) light source. Preferably, larger than your main light. In that way, it can be positioned more flexibly without creating secondary shadows.

If I may make another suggestion, Frank...
The fill light you use in your set-up now. The SB600 with a 5"x7" lumiquest SOFTBOX.... When used for portraits, this produces light that cannot be considered "soft" at all. (Wonder why they call it a softbox) Granted, when shooting small items, such as, rings or celfones, it produces soft lighting. But not so, when it is used for larger subjects.
Probably the first concern in lighting is the size of the light source "RELATIVE" to the subject. Your sb600 with lumiquest, when placed very near a small subject (such as wedding rings) is a RELATIVELY big light source that produces soft wrap-around lighting. Used for people, however, its not much different from a bare sb600. It is still a "relatively" small light source that produces specular light and hard shadows. The lumiquest helps in reducing the specular highlights but hardly improves on the harshness of the shadow.
This set-up makes positioning of the fill infexible. For portraits, the only logical position for such a hard fill light is on-camera. Placed anywhere else, it will cast a secondary shadow.
In the first foto you posted of lovely Nancy. (It's a nice portrait, by the way). You will see a secondary shadow cast by the fill on her right cheek (right beside the nose). In fact, it's hard to say which is the main and the fill in this shot. (I'm going by your description of your set-up). This is what happens when the fill is harsher than the main light. Even if the fill is 1/2 stop less intensity than the main, it'll cast a secondary shadow.
It would be better to make your fill a larger light source. Bounce it on a flat (4'x4' foamcore) or use another umbrella. Foamcore will only cost you a couple of bucks. You'd need another stand for it though and + 3 minutes (or so) in set-up time.

QUOTE: Do you still use one main light, regardless of the size of the group?

Yes. More than one main light creates confusing shadows. The bigger the group the more intensity you need from the main light as you need to position it farther from the subjects so as to light them evenly corner to corner. Also, the farther the light is the bigger the Softbox you need (if you want to keep the same (SOFT) lighting quality). Unfortunately, in many instances, SB800s just don't give enough power to light groups well. Thus, the need for more powerful studio lights. (Specially, outdoors in bright sunlight.)


QUOTE: I'm always running out of time, and my wife hits me when I call her my assistant .

You are one lucky guy. I can never rely on my wife to help me out with anything photo related. I think she acquired an allergy from over-exposure to photos. The rare moments when she does help me out, I'm very careful to call her "BOSS!":biggrin: :Bohoo:

QUOTE: Thanks for the help, Joey!

Apologies for the long response time. Been processing a lot of files lately.
We should really meet up one of these days. I'm based in South San Francisco. Barely 40 minutes from where you are, I believe.

Regards!