How to improve your camera image qualitity thru technique, tricks and tips.

Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
183
Location
Malmoe, Sweden
I just thinking of some thing that I wanted to share that have improved my shooting technique at slower shutter speed handheld.

I base it same principles I learn to shoot with sniper scope in the miltary.

• Get balance in your body, with weight disturbrated equally on your feets or knee sitting position.
• Use your body center gravity. No chicken wing elbows, have them inside your body. Tucked elbows, dont overdo. Relaxed and controlled.
• Support your lens barrel with your hand.
• Place the finger on the shutter.
• Take deep breath slowly
• Exhale
• Squeeze off the shutter, do not press. Make it a smooth movement.

Feel welcome share your tips also :)

Cheers,
Daniel Sunebring
 
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
192
Location
Middle Tennessee
i like to sit on my right foot and bring my left knee infront of me. then i can brace my left elbow inside my left knee. then i hold my right elbow agianst my side. ive gotten decent exposures as low as 1/3rd second that way. thank you U.S. ARMY
 
Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
183
Location
Malmoe, Sweden
Do you have to be wearing a Ghillie suit with a camo face? Great idea btw.
I you are the stalking photographer type with a long lens without VR and the latest red jacket got you in trouble with hired goons of the semi-famous person.

My tip in this situation is to dress down a bit. Sneakers and jogging clothes. Then try the "I am just Landscape photographer".

Another solution is to get CSI jacket. Then just go with, "Nothing to see here, move along please" style. As we all know CSI shoot Nikon.

Cheers,
Daniel
 
Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
183
Location
Malmoe, Sweden
i like to sit on my right foot and bring my left knee infront of me. then i can brace my left elbow inside my left knee. then i hold my right elbow agianst my side. ive gotten decent exposures as low as 1/3rd second that way. thank you U.S. ARMY
Great,

Didnt knew how to write that in english. Thats one steady position.
 
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
756
Location
Southern California
1. Because of limited field of view with telephoto (300mm+) lenses, have a spotter with a camera with a faster motor drive and 70-200mm-ish lens shoot subjects that pop up nearby.

2. Continuous high speed for supressing fire. Use Single to conserve space.

3. When shooting in low light, limit chimping; it screws with your night vision.

4. If the disposable camera at the wedding does not fire, TAP the dang thing on the table, RACK to advance the film, and BANG the shutter.

5. If the guys with the big white lenses are in range, so are you.
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
6,099
Location
Denver, CO
Good advice. I was a shooter too, but its been a few years since I touched a trigger.

Learning to control your breathing can improve accuracy. Feel the shutter don't jab at it. Sometimes shooting a 3 shot burst you will find that the 2nd or 3rd shot is sharper.

Another technique is to bring your left arm up and put that hand on your right shoulder. Lay the lens in your left elbow and control the camera with only your right hand. I do this often when shooting in low light with a prime lens.
 
Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
183
Location
Malmoe, Sweden
• Another tip use to get sharper photos with the tripod.

Is to have bag full of dry beans. I lay it over the camera. I let a rest a bit over the lens. The camera get steadier. This very noticeable when you look thru the view finder. It isnt stylish, but it helps.

• A good thing I learnt is to be very aware when using a lens in wideangle is to always think about have the camera "tilted" so it is in the same angle as the subject. This really make big difference what will be in focus. Also makes big diffrence how perspective.

Also when I shoot architecture I try to get on as high position as possible to minimize the tilt.

PS. I am just a newbie, but hope some of my findings will be helpful to others. This probably old stuff most off you. But rarely just see discussion how to maximize your results just with how you shoot the subject.z DS.
Cheers,
Daniel
 
Joined
Feb 18, 2006
Messages
272
Lisa, chimping is when you look at the image on the screen after you take the shot.

Now I know why I scored so high on the "nerd test". LOL!
 
P

photoshooter

Guest
Use higher shutter speeds, Don't be afraid to bump up your iso a little.
Speed is your friend, stop down your lens.

This will give you sharper photos.
 
Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
183
Location
Malmoe, Sweden
I thought about another thing. I tried to help a guy at DPreview that was unpleased with his colours from his D200.

Outside shooting
• Greens like grass, leaves other things have quite bright light green yellowish tone at Midday sun. Just to wait a couple hours it will give you are more saturated tone.
• Buildings also lose detail midday, the shadows are less. Shadows is good thing as it makes the texture pop. I found that early mornings is the best as you have good transition of shadows. Evenings works good also, but you can come to situation that your trip rendered useless as the dark comes. If you where looking for day photo.
• (I almost never shoot human subjects) Midday I gotten my best results because of the lesser shadows.
• Shadows are longer around morning and evening. Shadows can be fun lines to play with. Good example of good use of shadows and light is often seen in movies. Next time you see a movie, just look this guys are darn good at this. They have many interesting things you can learn.
• Polarizer helps a bit to bring more saturation on midday.

To conclude: Sun is both your best friend and worst enemy.
 
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Joined
Jan 24, 2006
Messages
1,259
Location
Greater Manchester, England
Over many years of using film, I learned the following basic rules for maximum photographic quality.
  • use the slowest ISO setting possible
  • use the shortest focal length possible
  • use the smallest aperture possible
  • use the fastest shutter speed possible
Of course these are completely contradictory :biggrin: the skill of photography is resolving the contradictions in each set of circumstances that you meet when taking photographs. In other words, you have to make choices about equipment and settings to make as many of the possiblities work for you as you can.
Using a tripod, using flash, increasing ISO or increasing focal length are all valid (and possibly essential) in some circumstances but not in others.

The interesting thing about digital photography is that these rules still apply but you can find new ways around them. For some subjects you can take dozens of shots in rapid succession without bankrupting yourself, provided that you have enough megabytes of memory. So you can reduce your shutter speed, expecting to throw away twenty shots showing camera shake, in the hope that you will get a couple of sharp ones: I find that I am frequently bracketing with shutter speeds, hoping that a slower speed than I'd dare to use with film can deliver the goods in the form of better tonality at a lower ISO or better depth of field with a smaller aperture.

Alan
 
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