Is there such a thing as a...

Discussion in 'Lens Lust' started by Catz, Nov 17, 2005.

  1. I hope I am not a fool for asking this but is there a lens that takes Panarama pictures instead of having to stitch pictures together?
     
  2. you are not a fool for asking anything. There is no such animal for digital. stiching them is really fairly easy with tools you already have and there are programs available that even do it better. It really is not that difficult to do.
    there are articles on exposure and technique (tripod, leveling head, nodal point and such) dont let that deter you. I have done a few out of curioustity and did not have aleveling head, did not understand nodal point, etc, and they came out acceptible enough that I now want to know much more about them. does this help you?
    Dave
     
  3. Yes it does help me but while we are on the subject, what is a nodal point?

    Thanks,
     
  4. Hi Melissa,

    I agree no such thing as a dumb question except for the one you don't ask. Actually Ipix has some software which will stich 8mm fisheye lenses which are 180 degrees. Two shots with an 8mm lens and Ipix software will give a 360 degree interactive panoramic image. I think that Realviz can also make an 8mm single image into a a panoramic image using one shot. They used to have some kind of a trick lens that used a convex mirror to capture a 360 degree shot with one click and thier software, but i didn't see it in a quick perusal of their site. Hope this helps.

    Here is the one shot panoramic thing a ma jigger.

    http://www.kaidan.com/Detail.bok?no=101

    Here is a link to start with. You can click through the Ipix site which is pretty extensive.

    http://www.ipix.com/products_sigma_nikon.html

    Also take a look at Realviz, they are doing some interesting things with stiching and panoramas. They are high end and a bit pricy but interesting to see.

    http://realviz.com/products/st/whatsnews.php

    by the way if you are interested in going into panoramic photography which is really fun and interesting, IMHO, RRS makes the best brackets and paniing heads. I have tried Peace river and Kaidan but found thier contraptions too bulky to pack in a photo bag. RRS is the most portable and esiest to use with great results. Again, ka ching, ka ching... grease up that American Express card if you want the good stuff.
     
  5. Hi Melissa,

    Stiching in PScs2 is very easy to do. Actually you almost can't go wrong.
    I had some handheld pictures stiched in cs2 and i was wondered how easy this worked.

    My advice in the beginning, forget the nodal point and just give it a try handheld or with a tripod.
    next step will be getting more "pro"with nodal point etc.

    just give it a try

    alex
     
  6. Melissa

    mmm - nodal points - mmm - lots of people know this much better than me. I sort of know the theory behind it, but as yet haven't attempted to find it on my lenses. Worth a search on google - the result below explains it fairly well.

    http://www.edb.utexas.edu/teachnet/QTVR/NodalPoint.htm

    It looks like an awful lot of bother if you're not going to be taking lots of Pano's - but having just handheld, turned and then tried stitching together I can see why the nodal point and levelling heads/pano brackets are useful.

    For the most part I would suggest a tripod and bubble level, spend a bit of time getting it level in both planes and then take you pictures. Get some good software, rather than PS, to stich it together. Worth doing a trawl through DPR to see what other use - Panorama Factory gets good reviews.

    What ever you choose - make sure you post it here for us non-pano's to see and drool over. Oh, and let us know how you do it !
     
  7. Simon and Alex...Many thanks for the advice. I will give it a try outside the backyard to see how well I can do this before venturing on to something really important to me.

    I will give PS a try too on their stiching until I get good at it.
     
  8. PeterRH

    PeterRH Guest

    Just do it!


    Don't get too hung up on it or you won't have fun.

    I did this years ago ('99) whilst in Hawaii with a 2.3mp P&S handheld.

    [​IMG]

    Don't let the idea that you *have* to do something in the *right* way stop you from even trying when you have the opportunity!
     
  9. JayR

    JayR

    385
    Jul 6, 2005
    Redmond, WA.
    Catz,

    I agree with Peter. I had a fun time doing the following pano which was handheld & shot through dirty glass while sitting in a revolving restaurant. I tried stitching in Adobe Elements 2 and Microsoft DIS was surprised that Microsoft Digital Image Suite did a better job of stitching. It was fun.

    [​IMG]

    Regards,
     
  10. patrickh

    patrickh

    666
    May 4, 2005
    Thousand Oaks
    Catz

    Just a hint - if you are doing it completely by hand, use a tripod, as flat a lens as you have (avoid barrel or pincushion effect - something like the 35, 45 or 50 primes are ideal) take the pics in portrait mode and allow 30-40% overlap. The biggest problem with stitching is to cure the accumulated distortions. It can be a lot of fun, and can also be very time consuming. Have fun
     
  11. Jay...Very nice pano. I guess this goes to show that I can do something halfway decent.

    Patrick...I have both a tripod and the 50 mm lens. So I guess I am in luck.

    Thanks to you both.
     
  12. Here is a pano I did using Photoshop's Stitcher. I think this was about 5 shots with about a 40% overlap. My recollection is that it was at 55mm using a zoom lens. I used a tripod and RRS pano bracket original.

    Pano's are great for email, websites, etc. but tend to be expensive to frameand put behind glass.
     
  13. Jay or Scott or anyone who can help me... I purchased this Gitzo G-1376M Mk2 Magnesium Universal Ballhead with Independent Panning Lock & Quick Release and according to the information by Gitzo, it is suppose to make perfect Panaramic pictures.

    I wanted to know how I would use the numbers on the base of this head to take panaramic pictures. Do I just move the dial from one number to the next number and keep taking shots? I know Scott suggested that I overlap them by 40 percent so how many numbers over would that be to make up the 40 percent?

    I hope I asked this in that it makes sense. If not let me know.

    Oh yeah, one more question, when taking panos do you take them from left to right and stay on one spot or do you stand in the middle of the pano you want to take and shoot from left to right.

    Thank you,
     
  14. Peter...Very nice Hawaii pano. I like how you put the girl in twice. Once in the beginnng and once at the end. That is cool.
     
  15. Melissa,
    Here is a link that I think you might find helpfull. It is a page from the RRS website that explains how to shoot panoramas in a pretty basic but helpfull way. Down below there is a link that explains parallax and nodal point. I think your questions will be answered here. This is not a pitch for RRS, as the information is applicable to any make of pano equipment.

    http://reallyrightstuff.com/pano/index.html

    Hope this helps.
     
  16. JeffKohn

    JeffKohn

    Apr 21, 2005
    Houston, TX
    There's no one right answer for this, because how much you pan for each shot depends on the focal length you're using as well as the subject distance. What I do is line up the marker on the panning base with a number. Then look through the viewvinder, and pan just enough that you still have significant overlap. Then look at the number on the marker to see how far you panned. Then for the rest of the shots just pan the same amount.

    I'm not sure what you mean "stand in the middle of the pano", but I've found its easiest to pan from left to right because it will be easier to recognize the sequence once you've downloaded the images to your computer, since we're used to reading things from left to right.
     
  17. The best way to learn this is to just do a few that you can throw away if they don't turn out right. It is easy despite all the techy jargon. Don't get hung up on numbers or degrees. The images will be much easier to merge if you keep the camera level for all shots and that nodal point thing is also kind of important. also don't change the aperture between images since this will change the depth of field just change the speed to keep the exposure correct as you turn the camera. The light will change but don't worry about that you can adjust later in computer if needed. I know a guy who doesn't use any equipment at all besides his digital camera. He just holds it and spins slowly taking shots as he turns. His panos are dramatic and technically very very good. He sells more pictures than almost anyone at all the art shows I have seen him at, which is many. Just have fun with it and you will succeed.
     
  18. Jeff and Scott...Thanks to both of you. My questions have been answered. I will shoot M but only adjust the Speed and not the aperture.

    Thanks again,
     
  19. marc

    marc Guest

    left to right right to left does not matter

    numbers on base are units of degrees, helps you to move from left to right or right to left the same amount for each shot.

    a 10 or 15% overlap is more than enough
    that , will allow you to match up buildings or other features to make the pano look like one giant photo.

    just start at one end of what you want to shoot, see where the mark is on the base, shot first picture, rotate base to next spot using the markings as your overlap guide
     
  20. Scott-I think you need to do a Pano just to get that TV of yours to fit in a pic.:wink:
     
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