Is this a pixel gone crazy?

Discussion in 'Nikon DX DSLR' started by Catz, May 25, 2005.

  1. I have another problem with the D2X and now I guess I have to send it back to Nikon tomorrow no matter what. So I may as well have the focusing checked and the whole camera for that matter.

    Can someone please tell me what that black dot is on this picture?

    Also I seem to be having with problems on several pictures with a haze to them that was not happening on the day this picture was taken. Is this another 'X' problem???

    Thanks for any help.



    large.
     
  2. jfrancis

    jfrancis

    May 8, 2005
    Orlando, FL
    Could be a big old dust bunny on the sensor . . . .
     
  3. Chris101

    Chris101

    Feb 2, 2005
    Arizona
    Looks like a dirt clod to me... :) Give the sensor a blow with a Rocket bulb and see if it disappears.

    By the way, was this shot with a small aperture?
     
  4. Melissa,

    It is dirt on the sensor. Blow it off with a bulb blower
    if it does not come off you may have to clean the sensor
    with either a sensor brush or sensor swabs. Nothing to
    panic about, I have had to clean my sensors a few times
    for spots that look just like that one.
    Just have everything laid out in one place, follow the
    instructions and you will be fine.

    Don't under any circumstances use compressed air or
    a can of air on your sensor!!!!! It can crack the chip!!


    If you need any more help cleaning the chip PM me.

    Cheers,
    Robin
     
  5. John, Chris and Robin

    Thank you John, Chris and Robin.

    John... I wasn't sure if it was a dust bunny or what. Now come to think of it, I had the same problem with the S2 and I sent it in to have them clean the sensor and it took them twice to get it right. Lots of money on postage.

    Chris... I re posted the picture above that gives all of the information on the settings. I am sending it in because I have the camera set to high sharpening and to me, this is a blurry picture. If you have any suggestions as to better settings to get sharp pictures, please let me know.

    Robin... Thanks for the offer of help. I will definitely take you up on it in the future because the camera is packed up to go back to Nikon to fix a few things such as the sharpness, battery problems and since it is going back, Nikon may as well clean the sensor for me too. I just don't understand how I got this dust bunny when I always keep the 17-55 on the camera. I only ever changed it once to try out the 70-200 VR for focusing problems
     
  6. jfenton

    jfenton

    Jan 26, 2005
    Haverhill, MA
    Catz

    I don't think that the image you posted is a good shot to judge sharpness on as the shooting parameters which you used weren't optimal.

    This appears to be a hand held shot and it was shot at 1/60th of a second. The X is a very unforgiving camera and unless you're far better than I at handholding, you're going to achieve less than optimal results with the X at shutter speeds such as this. There is definitely motion blur visible in the ball and I think that "camera shake" due to insufficient stability is what you're interpreting as not being sharp.

    You've also manually set this lens at f18. Many lenses start to show degradation of image quality if stopped down this far.

    Had you opened this lens up to f8 or 11, you would have increased the shutter speed dramatically and lessened the haze issue as well.

    To my eyes, this image is definitely lacking in sufficient contrast which will also make it look less sharp....or foggy / hazy as I believe you referred to it.

    I see that you have you're hue adjustment at +6. The image would have more warmth to it if you weren't forcing so far top the blue side of the spectrum.

    I've been through the sharpness issue and from what I've seen of your images which you don't feel are sharp, I'd be looking at my technique as the cause rather than the camera and would concentrate on improving them either now or certainly after you send it in should you choose to do so.

    Lastly...that dust bunny is a very easy blow out with a Rocket blower or similar device or you can also clone it out in seconds during post processing......if any processing was done here.
     
  7. dan_m

    dan_m Guest

    Soft Focus

    Melissa,
    I've spent hours analyzing my lenses on the D2x. These were all lenses that worked great on my former body, a Kodak 14NX.
    Sigma 12-24
    Nikon 24-120VR
    Nikon 105
    Nikon 80-400VR

    All lenses evaluated on good tripod.

    Only the 105 looked good. I sent the camera back; they adjusted and cleaned. Things got better, but not good enough. Spent a couple hours at a photo shop trying different lenses. Ended up getting rid of 80-400, replaced it with 70-200VR and a TC-17II teleconverter. Added a 17-55DX 2.8 as my walkin' around lens. Don't know yet what I'm going to do with the 12-24 Sigma or the 24-120VR.

    I can't see how one camera can look better or worse than another with respect to camera shake. 1/250th is 1/250th no matter what shutter is doing it. My experience with the D2X is that it is real particular with respect to glass. Use a great (translation, "expensive") lens or your image will be soft.

    Hop ethis helps.
     
  8. Re: Soft Focus

    I'm not sure I agree with your translation. Prior to purchasing my D2X I began acquiring glass. I did quite a bit of research to find which were the most highly rated, yet affordable, lenses Nikon made. I ended up with a 35-70/2.8($250), 80-200/2.8($500) and 105/2.5 AIS($145), all bought used. I also recently purchased a new 300/4 AFS. The 3 used lenses were far less expensive than the 300. My point: quality glass doesn't necessarily have to translate to expensive.

    With all due respect,
     
  9. jfenton

    jfenton

    Jan 26, 2005
    Haverhill, MA
    Kevin

    I agree with you....quality glass doesn't have to be expensive and that's why I just bough a mint used 28-70 2.8 for $800 :).

    Even using quality glass won't overcome the issues one presents if proper techniques / parameters aren't met. Shooting at slow shutter speeds without proper support and shooting at an aperture that invites internal lens diffraction to degrade the image contrast simply isn't going to give acceptable results.
     
  10. jfrancis

    jfrancis

    May 8, 2005
    Orlando, FL
    I agree. The 18-70 mm that came with my D70 is excellent on the D2X. Not at all expensive.
     
  11. marc

    marc Guest

    mellisa

    i have been reading your posts for some time,
    i agree with jim fenton,

    why are you using f-18? i think that is definitelly
    part of your problem

    also your shutter speed

    if you have decent lite, anything between f4-f10 and aperture priority
    should be perfect.

    use lower f number for less dof.

    hue, why +6 the camera does not need this, i use 0 and it works.

    melissa, spend time using the camera, with neutral settings, normal for
    tone, sharpening etc.
    even with jpeg, nc 4.2.1 will give you plenty of help.

    wb, i use cloudy-1 , this gives great all around results, indoors k5600-k5900

    flash, wb flash or auto if lighting is really difficuly, set contrast to normal for indoors.

    digital photography is not that tough, but you need to play with your camera, and learn whatthe settings will do for you.

    having a d2x, will not give good results, just because it cost 5000.00, this is the perception of most, but not the reality.
    i have been taking pictures for 35 years and, digital for the last 5, i am still playing daily with my d2x and d2h, to get better results.

    you see, once you think you have it figured out, you want to get better and then you become a really great photographer, wanting to get better everyday

    good luck
     
  12. dan_m

    dan_m Guest

    translation

    I'm glad you did well with your lenses. It looks like I should have tried more and different lenses. However, it doesn't seem like it should be necessary, does it? I loved my 24-120VR as a walking around lens on my Kodak, but it just doesn't do well at all on the D2X. That just doesn't make sense to me. Maybe it needs service. Same goes for the 80-400VR. Take care
    Dan M.
     
  13. dan_m

    dan_m Guest

    To: jfenton

    These lens tests were really carefully done. I didn't want to buy any lenses. I would lock the D2X on the tripod and run from wide open thru to f16. This wasn't failure to hold steady. I can tell the difference between soft focus and motion blur (usually). I even used mirror lock if the lens was long - no difference.

    Yesterday I took the new 70-200 out to a wetland and got a number of shots of a Great Blue Heron, some tripod mounted, some handheld. Even with the 1.7 multiplier, many of the handheld images were acceptable. I don't think my problem is technique. More likely, I think it may be Q.C..


    My son has a D70. Next time I see him, we'll try the 24-120 on it and see how it does.

    Dan M.
     
  14. Hi Marc,

    The reason I used f/18 is because that is what the camera read. I shoot mostly in Manual mode. So I adjust the aperature and shutter. Is M mode the wrong one to shoot on?

    Also I am using the latest Capture but usually I use the jpgs to pp in PS when shooting jpgs. If I use RAW then I use Capture where I can change the settings like contrast and color mode.

    I set the camera today to normal settings and I will use a tripod before I send the camera back.

    Today, I had a problem with using the X with my strobes. I don't know why but when I took a meter reading, I set the camera to the aperature to what the meter said using 125 shutter speed and 100 ISO at f/22 (even though I used to get a reading of f/8 with the S2) and the shutter would not would not click fast enough. It stayed there for a long time before the X went off. Do you have any suggestions on this? I was testing for sharpness in a makeshift studio I have.

    As for the settings I choose, a few of them were from Moose Petersons settings. The ones I choose before, some members told me they are too high or too low. So I am trying to find what works for me Marc. I don't think the soft pictures are because of my settings. I think they are a focus problem although I took your advice today and set everything pretty much to normal.

    I will go ahead and set my wb to your advice and see what it does for me and what you said about inside temperatures, is this setting used when you use a flash indoors? Would you mind telling me what your flash settings are if you are using the SB-800 and also do you always shoot Aperture Priority inside and out?

    Another question would you mind sharing or give me an idea what your focus settings are set to that works for you? IE your AF settings like AF-C mode priority, AF-S mode priority, Group Dynamic Af?

    I have been wondering also if it is a good idea to set the Dust Off ref photo on? What are your thoughts on this?

    Again, I am trying to learn different settings that may work better for me.

    Thanks again for the reply,
     
  15. Hi Marc,

    The reason I used f/18 is because that is what the camera read. I shoot mostly in Manual mode. So I adjust the aperature and shutter. Is M mode the wrong one to shoot on?

    Also I am using the latest Capture but usually I use the jpgs to pp in PS when shooting jpgs. If I use RAW then I use Capture where I can change the settings like contrast and color mode.

    I set the camera today to normal settings and I will use a tripod before I send the camera back.

    Today, I had a problem with using the X with my strobes. I don't know why but when I took a meter reading, I set the camera to the aperature to what the meter said using 125 shutter speed and 100 ISO at f/22 (even though I used to get a reading of f/8 with the S2) and the shutter would not would not click fast enough. It stayed there for a long time before the X went off. Do you have any suggestions on this? I was testing for sharpness in a makeshift studio I have.

    Thanks for the reply,
     
  16. I took some pictures today with the 17-55

    UPDATE>......................

    .....on a tripod and the pictures were sharp with no in camera sharpening so this proves that so far the X is okay.

    Thank goodness...Thank you to all who helped me.

    Thanks again,
     
  17. marc

    marc Guest

    ok
    lets start from the beginning, forgive me if i am a bit tart

    1. use p mode for shooting and a- wb. just for a short time.
    this will help you understand what the camera is doing.
    2. shoot jpeg, easier for now
    3. forget moose peterson and what he says. his methods are for him, not for you
    4. you need to read the manual at least twice, with the camera next to you
    as you get to a section you want to understand, play with camera
    it will make learning easier.
    5. manual shooting mode, for now forget it, you need to understand, shutter and aperture first.
    6. you use shutter priority to fix the spped of the shutter, how fast or slow, the shutter will expose the sensor. for stopping action or shooting moving objects. when in s mode camera sets aperture
    7. aperture priority it to give you the ability to determine, dof, smaller f number means larger opening of lens diphragm, letting in more light.
    higher number f18, means smaller opening. when i aperture mode, camera sets shutter speed.
    8. wb- just use auto or flash for now, it will be easier for you , to get consistent results.
    9. metering, stick with matrix for now.
    10. sb 800, use ttl, that is the second setting, not ttl-bl, just ttl.
    11. use wb flash and auto everything else, see how this works.
    12. if you use p mode outside in good light, daytime, and wb-a, your pictures should be good.
    13. set your af to single servo, focus priority and use the center focus spot in viewfinder. this is as close to point and shoot as you can get.
    14. use a short lens, it will be lighter and easier to hold still. 17-55 or something like that.
    15. check histogram after every shot and look for the data to stay in the graph , not along the far left or right edge.
    16. if you are getting to dark pictures in p mode and wb-a, then it is dark where you are shooting
    17. try and keep the sun behind, left or right not in front of the camera.
    18. melissa, try using the camera, this way, i know it isn't cool to use p mode or wb a, but at least you will get some good pictures.

    then when you understand what you have done we can move on.
    i will try to help, taking pictures is so much fun, do not let the camera,, ruin it for you.

    marc

    one more thing, you need to have your subject , not moving to use the above for now. if you want to shoot something moving, we need to make some simple changes. try with not moving first, if you must shoot somthing moving, then put the af selector on c, this means the af is going to try and focus on the moving object. this probably is not the best explanation, but from your post, yu need some basic help.

    if you want to shoot your son doing baskets, use af-c, and keep him in the focus point and click, make sure threr is plenty of light and use p mode.

    well, that was about enough for now, good luck and report back.
     
  18. marc

    marc Guest

    they are beautiful, you are a lucky woman, now what were the camera settings.

    the pictures have good lght, but are not sharp.

    forget in camera sharpening and all that junk, leave everything on normal.

    what lens and what settings?

    m
     
  19. Hi Marc,

    Here is the picture once again except no crop or post processing. Just the settings you asked for.

    I am a lucky woman to have such a beautiful daughter. Like the saying goes, like mother, like daughter...lol...

    43935574.
     
  20. marc

    marc Guest

    hey

    mellisa, what are your settings? the wb is off a little, the picture looks reddish.

    you definitely, cannot handhold lower than 1/15 in such low light.

    the picture is great, just not sharp

    are you usinf af-s, focus priority.

    marc
     
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