Lens Hoods

[Scott Sherman]

Okay, I am spending way too much time here. I just had a random thought and I wanted to share it before it died of lonelyness. Because the D2x and all Nikon Digital cams have a 1.5x FOV, and most of the lenses I carry are now 77mm I can use the same hood on most of my lenses. Most Nikon lenses come with hoods designed for film cams with a ff film FOV. I suppose the DX lenses are an exception but it still might be worth experimenting.

It just occurred to me that i am carrying more hoods than I need to and since they take so much space, maybe this will make more room for more lenses in my bag...

Hmmm... What should I buy now? :twisted:

 

[greyflash]

Good point Scott. I have started to carry only one, or two if I have my 300mm f2.8 on board.

 

[gho]

I don't get it. How is it that most of your lenses are at 77mm. Why would you buy so many lenses at the same focal length?

 

[Flew]

Gregory,

Not the same FL, the same front element diameter.... 8)

Frank

 

[greyflash]

I don't get it. How is it that most of your lenses are at 77mm. Why would you buy so many lenses at the same focal length?

Ouch Gregory, not sure if you are kidding or serious. The serious answer would be that the filter size is 77mm to fit many of the Nikon lenses whose diameter (not focal length) is 77mm. If you were kidding I will say GET A LIFE. :shock: :shock: :shock: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[gho]

No, I was being serious. Lense hoods are optimized for the focal legth, so just because if physically fits, does not mean that it is optimal - thread size actually has nothing to do with the effectiveness of the hood itself.

With the 1.5x crop, you could actually shade the lense a bit more than a given hood (but not much), but of course that's only with the crop.

 

[greyflash]

Good point Gregory; however many of the new lenses have the identical hood on them. Case in point is the 17-55mm and the 70-200mm. That is why I was saying that I am only going to carry one of them in the future.

 

[Scott Sherman]

remember that the hoods that come with your lens are designed to be used on a full frame imager, (Not sure if that is true of DX lenses). So now your 50mm lens becomes a 75mm lens. In theory at least you should be able to use your 70-200 hood for the 50mm lens without any vignetting. so you no longer have to carry a hood for your 50mm and your 70-200. You just need the one larger hood for both. extrapalate that to your other lenses and you should be able to remove at least one or two hoods. If your lenses are not all 77mm, there are step up or down rings that are inexpensive and easy to use and carry.

 

[MontyDog]

#1064 - You have an error in your SQL syntax;

 

[gho]

I dunno, that sounds like a lot of trouble swaping hoods around and stuff. I just leave my hood on the lense permanently attached (and actually leave the lense cap off). But I'm lazy.

Also, a hood is more effective, the more narrow it is, no? If you use a step down ring, then its not at its optimal diameter, and actually further from it.

Seems like to get the optimal shading, you can insert a spacer (black tube or whatever) between the lense and the hood to compensate for the 1.5x crop, though each one would have to be custom for each focal length.

As far as I know DX lense hoods are optimized for DX frames - it really doesn't make sense to optimize it for FF since you can't shoot a DX lense on FF without vignetting.

Nice idea, but, since I use FF, it don't work for me anyways.

 

[MontyDog]

#1064 - You have an error in your SQL syntax;

 

[gho]

Oh, sorry - Scott was mentioning using step down rings.

Regarding your post, I don't have those lenses so I have no idea about hoods on it.

I love film's dynamic range, tonality and color, but yeah I haven't shot with it for a while. I'm looking into getting a scanner so I can shoot more film (but that's also not the only FF camera I have).

 

[nfoto]

A lens hood should stay permanently on each lens. A few drops of epoxy glue will ensure this. That way the front of the lens gets additional protection, which my lenses constantly need . Besides, I can put the smaller lenses into a pocket of my photo vest without fear of damaging the front element.

It is true that you can benefit from slightly longer hoods when the lens is used on a DSLR. Thus, I use the hood for the 85/2 on my 50/1.4 lens, and the HK-19 (from the 300/2.8 AFS) on my 200/2VR instead of the ridiculous rain collector which Nikon delivers with it.

 

[jczinn]

Also, I don't see how you can use a step-down ring for a hood...none of the hoods I have for Nikon lenses (or others for that matter) are screw-in, but bayonet mounted. How could you possibly use a step-down ring? Am I missing something?

 

[MontyDog]

#1064 - You have an error in your SQL syntax;

 

[Scott Sherman]

You could put the step ring between a lens and a filter and the hood then attaches to the filter. This is convenient because you then only need one size filter for all your lenses and less hoods in your bag for the same or actually better results. With a 1.5x crop you can go up or down (to a point without vignetting) especially on the longe lenses.

If the full frame designed hood is attached to a lens that is longer (narrow FOV) because of the 1.5x crop than it was designed for, it is not as efficient at blocking out flare producing sun light entering the front of the lens.

Don't think any of this applies to the DX designed lens. However it might be worth testing by just shooting a white wall with a different hood and look to see if it is dark around the corners. If not you can continue to use that hood on the tested lens. If it is a zoom make sure you try it at the widest FOV.