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Thanks, everyone, for the comments - much appreciated. It was again mid-day, but after waiting 20-odd years and driving 1400 miles to get there, I couldn't be too picky - just had to take lots of photos everywhere!
Gale, you were right that just seeing all this was a treasure, and being able to practice with the D70 was a bonus.
Thanks Henk, Kevin and Anand for the encouragement - it is very valued after seeing examples of your work.
Gordon - that is an inspiring place and it must be especially so for you. Thanks for sharing that personal memory here.
Justin - I couldn't avoid the foreground so I tried to use it in the old style of "framing" the scene, and had to move around so that the leaves wouldn't obscure either the falls or the river course.