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Magenta Filter Comparison Photos

Discussion in 'Other Cool Gear, Camera Bags, Camera Straps' started by MiriamJ, Jun 9, 2007.

  1. I've been using the CC40M Lee filter, and I took a couple of photos to compare the histograms and photo quality with and without the filter.

    Both were taken in full sunlight, and these are after they were white-balanced using a white balance gray card. I also adjusted the shutter 2/3 ev to compensate for the photo without the filter.

    Here is the first one without the filter:

    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

    Now with the filter:

    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

    The one without the filter is a little brighter, but the one with the filter is more detail rich, (look at the bubbles on the Pepsi label). Also the color of the apple around the blown highlight looks more correct to me.

    Here's the histogram of the one without the filter. Notice the excessive clipping.

    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

    There's much less clipping in the one with the filter:

    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

    My understand is that the CC40M magenta filter is good for sunlight and flash pictures, and helps with cloudy day pictures, too.
  2. CC40 M is a Colour Correction filter for flourescent light.
    One can use it for night cityscapes as large buildings are predominately florescent.
    With colur balance on auto the effects would cancel in your images.
  3. MontyDog


    Jan 30, 2005
    #1064 - You have an error in your SQL syntax;
  4. Hmmm. . . It never even occurred to me about the auto white balance. Of course, that makes sense.

    I downloaded Iliah's UniWB a long time ago to correct the inaccuracy in the histogram during playback. I just shoot RAW, and I know that I can correct the color later in the Raw Converter. The only time I'm not using the UniWB is early morning and late evening when I'm trying to catch that special light. Then I use daylight WB. So setting the white balance is something I had forgot about.

    BTW, if you're interested, you can download the UniWB at UniWB

    Here's Julia Borg's thread at DPReview http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1021&message=17142860 and another at Luminous Landscape http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t10937.html both worth the time.

    Okay, I'm pulling my foot out my mouth now. . .:redface:
  5. GoGo


    Apr 20, 2006
    New York


    Interesting thread.
    I see compressed tonality as a result of the cc40Magenta filter as well.
    I think that you used a very small aperture here (what was it)?
    Better yet what was the camera info, exif?

    Of to read the other threads now,

    PS The thread at dpreview is a year and a half old?
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 9, 2007
  6. Thanks for the heads up on this technique but it appears that the filtered version looks flarey or could use a bit more saturation imho.
    The only time I ever use CCM is correcting flourescent to daylite on trans. or balancing different light sources to a common balance.
    I imaging this technique your persuing could be valuable in daylight landscape.
    If I was shooting the subjects in your samples, I`d be inclined to use a Polarizer.
    From a check what happens to the red channel, its interesting and something to learn.
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 15, 2017
  7. GoGo


    Apr 20, 2006
    New York
    Hey Doug

    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

    Have you tried puting cc30m rosco gel in over a flash?
    I think this could be a benefit in studio work, when using a digital camera.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 10, 2007
  8. Hi, Giorgio,

    Using an old AIS lens, and didn't record the F stop. I'm attaching the Exif. D70, 50mm f1.8 AIS Manual Focus, 1/250, ISO 640, full sunlight, I'm guessing the f stop must have been F8? Ignore the huge exposure bias, I'm manual everything. 100% crop. Probably about 24" from subject.

    Yeah, I noticed that is a very old thread. But the info was so good.

    - Exif Specific
    Exposure Time = 1/250 sec [0.004]
    F Number = 0
    Exposure Program = Manual
    ISO Speed Ratings = 640
    Original Create Time = 2007:06:07 13:09:29
    Digitalization Time = 2007:06:07 13:09:29
    Shutter Speed Value = 1593/200 [7.965]
    Aperture Value = 0
    Exposure Bias Value = -4/1 [-4.000]
    Max. Aperture Value = 0/10
    Metering mode = CenterWeightedAverage
    Light Source = Unknown
    Flash = Flash did not fire
    Focal Length = 0 mm
    Sub-Second Time = 90
    Original Sub-Second Time = 90
    Digitized Sub-Second Time = 90
    Color Space = sRGB
    X Dimension (Pixel) = 771
    Y Dimension (Pixel) = 738
    Sensing method = One-chip color area sensor
    Rendered by Customer = Normal process
    Exposure Mode = Manual exposure
    White Balance = Manual white balance
    Digital Zoom Ratio = 1
    Focal Length in 35mm Film = 0 mm
    Scene Capture Type = Standard
    Gain Control = None
    Contrast = Normal
    Saturation = Normal
    Sharpness = Hard
    Subject Distance Range = Unknown
  9. Doug, I agree, it's a bit flarey. Direct desert sun isn't the best lighting for this. If I was shooting for other than testing I probably would use other lighting.

    My photos just looked so much better after editing once I started using the filter, and I wanted to know if it was my imagination. This test confirms to me that I am getting more accurate color by eliminating most of the color clipping. I can live with the lack of saturation because I can increase the saturation when I edit it, as long as the clipping is kept to a minimum.

    As for daylight landscapes, the reds seem more accurate, the greens more colorful, and the blue sky less noisy.

    Here's the photo with the filter, after just a little editing. I increased the saturation a small amount, then a levels adjustment:
    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 10, 2007
  10. GoGo


    Apr 20, 2006
    New York

    Magenta! So it is back to cc filters I go (have a full set of Kodak cc and the first filter out of the box was a cc40M, too funny).

    I'll test next week and look forward to the results under studio lighting. Clipping has been a concern for me in studio.

    Miriams test photo looks like an F/22 aperture judging from the sun and its reflected hi light star patern, can't really know.

    Thanks for pointing out the tests Miriam, like I said interesting.
  11. Giorgio,

    I just came in to correct it. I had tried to figure it out with a pencil and paper last night, and obviously got something way backwards. I'm sure you're right on the f22. I just shot another soda bottle in bright sunlight at 1/250, ISO 640, and I had to take the aperture all the way down to f22 to duplicate the results.

    (I was trying to figure something out around 10:41 p.m., the time of the post. That explains the wild answer.)

    If you can post them, it would be interesting to see your results, too.
  12. Hi GoGo,
    I dont know of any studio who puts any gels over their flash.
    I use 30 Green over my flash heads when shooting under flourescent, like in office situations. This gets the flash head to the same colour balance of the room.
    I determine the colour balance with a Minolta 3F colour temperature meter.
    I then use the auto colour balance on my cameras, Fuji S2Pro or Kodak SLR/N.
  13. GoGo


    Apr 20, 2006
    New York

    Hey Doug,

    I guess what I am after is a better understanding of how a digital cameras sensor works and an adjustment of my techniques to take that sensor into consideration when shooting digital.

    Thanks for the input,
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