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Mamiya lens on Nokon Body Why?

Discussion in 'Lens Lust' started by photoman1955, Aug 4, 2008.

  1. photoman1955


    Jan 28, 2008
    I have seen adapters for Mamiya lenses to Nikon bodies.What is the advantage to this?Which Nikon bodies can you use?

  2. rvink


    Mar 21, 2006
    New Zealand
    Some photographers like to get more use out of their medium format lenses by using them on 35mm film cameras and DSLRs. With a Nikon adapter you can use them on any Nikon camera body, but you don't have any linkage between the lens and camera - no automatic diaphram so metering is stop down (assuming the camera even meters without a CPU lens). Given that medium format lenses are larger that equivalent Nikon lenses, and generally have lower resolution, there is little point.

    Some, like Zoerk, make shift or tilt adapters which make use of the larger image circle of medium format lenses, turning them into tilt/shift lenses. I haven't tried them but they may be an interesting way to try these effects without buying an expensive 85 PC-micro lens.
  3. photoman1955


    Jan 28, 2008
    Thanks for the info.I thought I was missing out on something,I have Mamiya lenses but it dosen't make sence to cross over.
  4. scooptdoo

    scooptdoo Guest

    intresting.is this a general rule 35mm lens's have better resolving power than medium format lenses?i would have thought the bigger lens would have better optic qualities?how good are large format lenses?
  5. cotdt


    Jul 14, 2007
    Bay Area, USA
    My Mamiya 80/1.9 is sharper than my 85/1.8 AF-D wide open. Incidentally, both the Nikon 85/1.4 and 85/1.8 can also cover medium format.

    Mamiya makes APO telephoto lenses that are simply amazing. Nikon also makes a 300mm f/2 superlens for the Mamiya 645 system.

    It's true that lenses with smaller image circles can be better corrected and are usually sharper, hence the performance of Nikon DX lenses. For example the 16-85VR is very similar optically to the 24-120VR but a lot sharper. However, in the case of prime lenses and telephoto lenses, often the Mamiya lenses are actually sharper than the Nikon equivalents.
  6. scoop, it depends on which LF lens - the 4x5/5x7 king is currently the Schneider Super Symmar XL 110mm/f5.6. read more here: http://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?CID=169&IID=1836. The newish Digitar series by Rodenstock made for digital backs are better for res, but have much smaller coverage - designed for smaller (but still large) sensors.

    Medium Format - most Zeiss optics (for 'Blads and Rolleis), and even better, any Mamiya 7 lens. I am well used to fine quality MF output, but the 65mm/4 6x7 transparencies and scans can be breath-taking, and make my D200 files look puny by comparison. Just the ticket for grain free 30x24 prints with tremendous depth! Distortion free as well, as there is no mirror to compromise lens design, so they place the rear element very, very close to the film plane.
  7. Any MF lens that performs well on a digital MF back will do just as well on a 35mm DSLR. The "35mm lenses are better" myth is just that, a myth.

    In film days, MF film had an advantage - more light-sensitive emulsion grain of varying sizes on the substrate to capture more fine detail -- and lower magnification needed to get an 8x10 print than with a 35mm negative. As a result, MF lenses didn't NEED to resolve as fine. That said, just because they didn't NEED to doesn't mean they didn't. There are MANY MF lenses that blow the socks off supposedly 'primo' 35mm lenses - on a 35mm body.

    Many large format APO lenses are even better. Remember, we're now in the era of uniform (across the sensor - Fuji S series excepted) digital 'grain'.

    AA filter aside, a DSLR and MFDB with the same or similar pixel size and the same MF lens, will deliver the same image resolution (again, lack of AA filter on the MFDB aside). DoF will be shallower on the MFDB because of the larger sensor (a Hassy 110/2 on a MFDB is more like a 110/F1.2-1.4 vs 110/2 on full frame DSLR). On the flip side, using a MF lens on a DSLR (assuming FX) only captures the first 20mm of the MTF - the lens sweet spot. Soft corners don't get captured.

    I use a Mamiya 200/2.8 APO and 150/3.5N on my 1Ds2 with spectacular results. The 200 APO is as good as some of the Leica APOs I've owned and built like a tank - for $600 (but rising). SHARP starting WO and true APO correction.

    First day using lens, I took a quick snapshot of my dog from about 3M away at 2.8. I didn't realize it at the time, but at that instant a small bug was flying in front of dog's face. Didn't even see it until zoomed past 50% in CS3 - just a small dot. Blown up to 100% I could easily make out the veins in the bugs wings.

    The 300/2.8 APO is even better. One Canon user tested it WITH a 2x and his first words were "wow". The 150/3.5N is sharp and has a very nice pastel-like low saturation look to it's colors. Awesome portrait lens - for under $200 mint. I've also used the Hasselblad 110/2 F - great lens. Any Mamiya, Hassy or Pentax MF lens WITH AN APERTURE RING can be used, in stop down, mode on a DSLR. On a Nikon body, you even get focus confirm - something that takes a $70 chipped adapter on a Canon. Hasselblad C-class lenses (shutter in lens ), not just F class, can also be used - just simply cock the shutter and put the lens in F mode (locking open the shutter).

    Many MFDB shooters use a FF DSLR as a an emergency backup to their digital back via adapters.

    They can also be used as a Tilt/Shift lens via a Mirex adapter because of the MF lens's larger image circle. Cheaper than buying a dedicated Nikon/Canon TS - and you can change the lens at whim.

    Best adapters (so far) Fotodiox PRO (NOT consumer units). Beware cheap ebay units - MF lenses are a larger diameter and as a result heavier than their 35mm counterparts of the same FL and aperture. You want a well put together adapter. Some cheaper units look like held together by 3 screws that came off a pair of eyeglasses.

    With the modest selection of non-Nikon lenses that can be used on the F-mount, manual focus medium format glass, some of which is CHEAP today, is very much worth considering -
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