Moon shot
- Thread starter Flew
- Start date
Amazing shot Frank, I'd print that for sure !
How exactly do you go about taking a shot of the moon ?
I have distant memories of trying it a while back and just getting a white featureless disk
How exactly do you go about taking a shot of the moon ?
I have distant memories of trying it a while back and just getting a white featureless disk
Thanks for the nice words guys. I was actually a little disappointed in it, because I didn't see the details that I've seen in the shots of others (and even some of my own). I then realized that this one isn't too bad considering that it is a full moon shot.
I have found that quarter to three-quarter shots turn out better for me because the shadows show up much better, giving more of a 3-D effect. Here's an example of one that I got several months ago:
Paul, I was curious about your comments about my technique being different. I thought that I was shooting about the way you described. Then I looked at my EXIF. For whatever reason, it's wrong. I actually shot this at about 1/1,600th. Don't know why it shows 1/160th. I shot at the high shutter speed for just the reasons that you give. Weird. :?
Here's the (incorrect) EXIF:
Aperture: f/5.0
ISO: 320
Focal Length: 500mm
Exposure Time: 0.0062s (625/100000)
Exposure Program: Aperture priority
Exposure Bias: -2.3333333333333
And (Paul) you are correct that there are much, much better examples out there. I've seen some that were taken through telescopes that will take your breath away, and some taken with normal lenses that are much better than these. ;-)
Regards,
Frank
I have found that quarter to three-quarter shots turn out better for me because the shadows show up much better, giving more of a 3-D effect. Here's an example of one that I got several months ago:
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
Paul, I was curious about your comments about my technique being different. I thought that I was shooting about the way you described. Then I looked at my EXIF. For whatever reason, it's wrong. I actually shot this at about 1/1,600th. Don't know why it shows 1/160th. I shot at the high shutter speed for just the reasons that you give. Weird. :?
Here's the (incorrect) EXIF:
Aperture: f/5.0
ISO: 320
Focal Length: 500mm
Exposure Time: 0.0062s (625/100000)
Exposure Program: Aperture priority
Exposure Bias: -2.3333333333333
And (Paul) you are correct that there are much, much better examples out there. I've seen some that were taken through telescopes that will take your breath away, and some taken with normal lenses that are much better than these. ;-)
Regards,
Frank
Are you using the Exposure Delay setting & timer?
That's by far the best way to ensure minimal camera movement. Let the mirror vibration settle, and don't touch the camera. You could of course, also use a release cable along with the Exp Delay setting. Got one of those?
That's by far the best way to ensure minimal camera movement. Let the mirror vibration settle, and don't touch the camera. You could of course, also use a release cable along with the Exp Delay setting. Got one of those?
"somewhere" in the menu,
Is the Exp Delay Mode. Don't ask me where, sry. doing this, along with the shutter release cable, or if you don't have one of those, the timer will completely eliminate any camera shake. Also, as someone else mentioned, properly stopping down the lens is important too. Merely pressing the shutter on a tripod mounted camera can induce enough shake to affect a distant object like a moon shot. Haven't you got a cable release... yet?Flew said:
Re: "somewhere" in the menu,
I'll check this out as soon as I finish breakfast. No, I don't have a shutter remote release cable. Don't need it for flying birdie shots. :lol:
Thanks!!
Frank
Steve,Steve S said:Is the Exp Delay Mode. Don't ask me where, sry. doing this, along with the shutter release cable, or if you don't have one of those, the timer will completely eliminate any camera shake. Also, as someone else mentioned, properly stopping down the lens is important too. Merely pressing the shutter on a tripod mounted camera can induce enough shake to affect a distant object like a moon shot. Haven't you got a cable release... yet?Flew said:
I'll check this out as soon as I finish breakfast. No, I don't have a shutter remote release cable. Don't need it for flying birdie shots. :lol:
Thanks!!
Frank
Oh, I guess you don't shoot *anything* else?
You need one, trust me
You need one, trust me
I've been trying to get hold of a remote release for my D70 since January.
They're like gold dust down here - I think I'll have to order one from the US
They're like gold dust down here - I think I'll have to order one from the US
I like this image, I will have to go out on the next clear night and give this a try.
Nice going Frank!!
This was my best attempt with a Sigma 50-500 and Sigma 2x TC. Below it is a pic of my setup for this shot. I still got some shake from the mirror. It would be nice to have MLU in the D70. I have seen people use bean bags to help with shake. Does anyone have information on this method?
Thanks in advance.
Charles
I have seen people use bean bags to help with shake. Does anyone have information on this method? Thanks in advance.
Charles
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)
Charles,
The shutter shake can be minumized in my (shhh) Minolta 7d by a function that lifts the mirror and pauses before the sensor is activated. Haven't tried it yet.
Love your idea for the tripod. I've been seriously thinking along the same lines. Is that a standard survey "pod" without the tribrac? is the mounting plate something you made or can order. Where can I find these on the web for a look see. What brand did you pick. What is that extra rod from the camera to the leg? more support? I'm thinking about matching this type up with the gimbal mounts. Wouldn't want to lug it around in the woods much.
Sorry for all the questions but I like this idea even more now that someone else has perfected it.
The shutter shake can be minumized in my (shhh) Minolta 7d by a function that lifts the mirror and pauses before the sensor is activated. Haven't tried it yet.
Love your idea for the tripod. I've been seriously thinking along the same lines. Is that a standard survey "pod" without the tribrac? is the mounting plate something you made or can order. Where can I find these on the web for a look see. What brand did you pick. What is that extra rod from the camera to the leg? more support? I'm thinking about matching this type up with the gimbal mounts. Wouldn't want to lug it around in the woods much.
Sorry for all the questions but I like this idea even more now that someone else has perfected it.
The only thing I wish the D70 had is a shutter delay or MLU. My wife and I have a survey supply store here in Denver so this setup came easy. The tripod is a standard survey wood/fiberglass. It is very heavy, but rigid and strong. Next I need to find some rubber feet for the tripod.Greg Giesing said:
Link to tripod.
Link to tripod adapter. This goes from 5/8x11 to 1/4x20.
Then used this reducer to adapt to my Bogen 468RC4 head.
The extra support you see is a Bogen long lens support. It does ok, but I am going to try using 2 tripods next. One for the lens and one for the camera. That should be fun aiming. :shock:
Here is a list of SECO dealers in your area.
Hope this helps.
Charles
charles, thanks for the info. I'll check it out next time I'm in Nashville.
As to the long lens support have you given any thought to having a local machinist machine a solid piece of stainless or aluminum that perfectly matches the lens body combo? It would have an offset to account for the body being higher. Then set up a slot at the balance point for final balance. you could also use the larger mounting bolts. Do you think this would be good enough to stop the same motion that the extra rod or double tripod would get.
As to the long lens support have you given any thought to having a local machinist machine a solid piece of stainless or aluminum that perfectly matches the lens body combo? It would have an offset to account for the body being higher. Then set up a slot at the balance point for final balance. you could also use the larger mounting bolts. Do you think this would be good enough to stop the same motion that the extra rod or double tripod would get.
Greg,
I have thought of doing that exact thing and there is a CNC machine shop close to me. The problem I see is that you would have only 1 locking point at the ball head, in my case. It seems to me that the mirror shake should be treated like a harmonic problem since it happens within a certain shutter speed range. Much like the barrel of a rifle carries the harmonic vibration down its length and loses accuracy. In the case of mirror shake I think 2 points of contact will be better than one. That is why I want to test with 2 heavy tripods.
What do you think or my idea?
Charles
I have thought of doing that exact thing and there is a CNC machine shop close to me. The problem I see is that you would have only 1 locking point at the ball head, in my case. It seems to me that the mirror shake should be treated like a harmonic problem since it happens within a certain shutter speed range. Much like the barrel of a rifle carries the harmonic vibration down its length and loses accuracy. In the case of mirror shake I think 2 points of contact will be better than one. That is why I want to test with 2 heavy tripods.
What do you think or my idea?
Charles
Boy am I disappointed, Harris told mt check out this thread that Frank was mooning an uncooperative GBH and what do I get to see, well it is about the same color!
Nice shot Frank
Nice shot Frank
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