Well if you allready have a 80-200 2.8, why not get a 300 f4 and a kenko pro 300g 1.4 converter. the kenko will work on both the 80-200 and the 300 f4 giving you 420 f5.6
300/4 AFS + TC14EII is what I did add to the 80-200/2.8.
If you have the 300/4, adding a TC to the 80-200 isn't that necessary. And the matched Nikon TC might have an edge above the Kenko, IQ wise.
For slower shutter speeds, add a monopod. For BIF, you need high shutter speeds, anyway - then the 300/4 can be hand held quite successfully (at 1/1000 and above in my experience).
IQ of the 300/4 alone is just excellent, and probably the best a reasonable amount of money can buy in that range. With the TC14E, it's still very good, IMO. The effective focal length on a DX body becomes taxing on one's technique, however.
Thanks agw0,
That is what I wanted to find out...Image quality..
Also thanks to senna for the same lens suggestion.
I will seriously consider this lens since it is in my price range. It is a gift for my 35th wedding anniversary.
My husband wants nothing. Poor him
Since you want to take on vacation ....look for a sharp 80-400mm.....that will give you the reach & the 80 side makes it a "walk around lens" a bit heavy ....but not as heavy as the big boy lenses....
Tpsfoto, that is something else to consider, but how do I check for sharpness since I am going to order one. They don't have one in stock at my local camera shop. Is the 300 f/4 much sharper than the 80-400
The 80-400 has VR and mongo reach, but it's slow to focus. You list the 80-200 in your signature. You could add a Kenko 2X teleconverter to it and be just as well off.
The 70-200/2.8 has VR and AF-S, but the image quality isn't noticeably better than your 80-200, and it doesn't have the reach you need or you wouldn't be shopping.
The 300/4 is outstanding, but not so easy to handhold. I'm not claiming to be a rock, but, as a reference point, I had difficulty getting crisp captures at 1/500 using a monopod.
The 70-300 is a full stop slower than the 300/4 at full zoom, but it's image stabilized, and I can hand hold it at 1/200 and get sharp results.
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It's fast focusing (AF-S), and light enough to keep in my camera bag without weighing it down. And it has plenty enough reach for my backyard birding and trips to the lake.
Thanks for all the suggestion. I am still debating as to which one I will be getting. I would like the 70-300 for light setup but the 80-400 for the range.
"birds around the house and if ever I go somewhere like an Alaskan cruise"
It sounds like your interests are largely stationary, rather than BIF.
In that case, I'd consider a used 300 2.8 and a Kenko Pro 300 2X converter. The lens is so flawless, the 2X works well with it.. nothing bad to amplify..little loss of detail...a bit of loss of contrast, easily fixed in pp. It will stretch you budget a bit....if you are willing to settle for a well used lens, you can buy one in the lower 2000's....the Kenko Pro 300 2X's are available used for around $100.
For stationary birds, an effective 600mm on a DX is required to really get you close. With your D300 you should be able to crop with plenty of detail left.
Here's are three examples shot handheld with exactly that combo in my own back yard:
House finch
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Grackle
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Pigeon
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These shots would have been even better if I had used a monopod (handholding this combo lasts about 30 secs, at least with 68 yr-old arms).
And here is a scenic shot using the combo, shot from a mountaintop over two miles away using a monopod:
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Still more question?
Is the 300f4 much sharper than the 80-400 at 300mm.
When using the 300 f4 don't you miss the zoom, I think I would.
What about a Kenko 2X teleconverter for my 80-200 f2.8? How would the image quality be?
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