Poppers giving my QFlash HSS!!

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I'm using an SU-800 commander, with the radiopopper px transmitter. I have an AB800 and a QFlash t5d-r both attached to jrx studio receivers. I can get sync speeds up to 1/8000 of a second on both units (separately or together). AWESOME. Now I have the perfect off-camera flash for outdoor portraits in bright sun while still maintaining shallow dof, finally.....
 
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Sarcasm? Not at all. That is exactly how the new Pocketwizards exceed the normal synch speed, but they don't get anywhere near 1/8000, so I was asking how the RP's do it. I have both systems and I am always looking for reasons to choose one over another for a particular purpose.
 
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Since I was too impatient to wait for your results :smile: I just tried it myself and it definitely works! I do get a small band at 1/8000 with my Qflash but it is clean up to about 1/2000 or so. It must use the trailing edge of the full power flash, because it does not work at lower powers. Should be interesting with an Einstein.
 
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My bad, I figured it was sarcasm as I usually find people trying to rain on my happy parade when it comes to gear ;D Also, there was truth to your comments, this doesn't work like the HSS of the Qflash Trio or an SB900. I've always had issues with those two units competing with the sun for outdoor portraits, I hate to use f/8 when I'm dealing with an ugly background, etc... So my quest to find a more powerful strobe or speedlight that could sync with my shutter faster than 1/250 of a second. I've been using the QFlash Pilot to trigger my QFlash 5 with freexwire, this limited me to 1/250, as soon as I jumped to 1/320 half of the frame would fill with the shutter. I owned a set of jrx studio receivers and a transmitter for my AB800's but this setup gave me the same results as the Pilot. When I read about the PX transmitter when used with the jrX studio receivers giving some people HSS with their AB's I had to try it on my Qflash t5dr. I ordered the PX transmitter and fixed in on the SU-800 I already owned. I love the fact that I have the SU-800, not only light-weight but it also gives me the focus-assist beam that other dedicated triggers/commanders lack. But Here's what my testing tonight showed me: for my AB test, I have to power the bee to at least 1/2 power for the sync to go faster than 1/250, I can increase the shutter speed to 1/8000 but with each stop of shutter increase I notice a darkening of the exposure. This doesn't bother me since I use the AB's in the studio only anyway and don't need HSS. Now my test on the Qflash t5dr: I need to power the qflash to at least 2+, now that's better than 1 or 1-, but I left it at 1- for the rest of the test. I can drive the sync speed to 1/8000 and the exposure doesn't appear to decrease as exponentially as the AB does. Exposure gets darker starting around 1/1600 and is usable up to 1/5000. Best results for both lights are when I use the lens wide-open, I tried this on both the 85 f/1.4 and the 24-120 f/4 with the similar results..... In conclusion, my tests results were consistent after unplugging, re-syncing several times, etc... And the QFlash seems to "work" better that the AB's in this scenario, this amazed me because I only saw other references to this working with the AB and everywhere I checked it said it would not work with the QFlash, needless to say I'm pleasantly surprised and I look forward to shooting 1/2000 of a second at f/4 for outside portraits with a nice fill-flash....
Thanks,
Jon


Sarcasm? Not at all. That is exactly how the new Pocketwizards exceed the normal synch speed, but they don't get anywhere near 1/8000, so I was asking how the RP's do it. I have both systems and I am always looking for reasons to choose one over another for a particular purpose.
 
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haha, looks like we both got the same results! although my response was a tad longer winded :D I think this is great news personally. My td5r gives me plenty of pops full power when I use my turbo 3 battery so this doesn't concern me.....
keep me posted on anything else you find. one other thing to share, if you have 2 Qflashes with jrx receivers, set one to group 1 and the other to group 2. They will both fire when using any group of the SU-800, if no groups on the SU-800 are enabled than neither will fire. Ok so how do you turn one or the other off? Simply turn the g1 or g2 on the px transmittor to value 00 and it will disable the qflash associated to that group......

Since I was too impatient to wait for your results :smile: I just tried it myself and it definitely works! I do get a small band at 1/8000 with my Qflash but it is clean up to about 1/2000 or so. It must use the trailing edge of the full power flash, because it does not work at lower powers. Should be interesting with an Einstein.
 
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What do you mean by "power the qflash to at least +2"? Are you using it in a TTL/Auto mode or in manual?

It should work with any flash - I bet it would work with Nikon Speedlights for example, but the longer the flash duration, the better it will work, since it is pulling light from the tail end of the flash emission. That's why you need nearly full power on the flash - that's the longest flash duration. After that, the flash duration becomes too short to piggy-back on to.
 
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Interesting stuff, guys!

I'm still not completely sold on the Radiopoppers mainly because of the amateurish way they mount, but it looks like they're getting better.
 
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In Manual mode, I meant to say 1/2+ but the best trade off of power and consistent results were with 1- power (of course plain old power 1 works too). I didn't try TTL as I don't have the PX receiver, I'm guessing the hss only works with the jrx receiver as that's what others noted when using other flashes....

What do you mean by "power the qflash to at least +2"? Are you using it in a TTL/Auto mode or in manual?

It should work with any flash - I bet it would work with Nikon Speedlights for example, but the longer the flash duration, the better it will work, since it is pulling light from the tail end of the flash emission. That's why you need nearly full power on the flash - that's the longest flash duration. After that, the flash duration becomes too short to piggy-back on to.
 
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I understand but the px transmitters are so light that they feel darn secure with the velcro connection to my SU-800.... I actually like this better than the the jrx transmitter mount since they're a bugger to slip onto the nikon flash shoes.... I like the price of the RP's and it's nice to know I'm not tied down to a single brand of strobes/lights

Interesting stuff, guys!

I'm still not completely sold on the Radiopoppers mainly because of the amateurish way they mount, but it looks like they're getting better.
 
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Jan 14, 2011
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Shepherdsturd, WV
What cameras are you guys using?

It's definitely not HSS as HSS causes the flash to strobe so that it fills the entire frame since the way the shutter drags across the sensor it doesn't leave the entire sensor open at once.

I know certain cameras have electronic hybrid shutters like the D40, D50, D70, and several others.

There's definitely something other than HSS going on there though.
 
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It is not HSS. It is using the decay tail of a full power (long duration) flash which is the same way that the new PW's achieve their "hypersync" mode.
 
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I believe it will. One of the WPPI instructors I saw had it set up on a Qflash. I tried to get a close-up look at how he attached the RP receiver, but it looked like it was just done with Gaffer's Tape!
 
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I mean do you think we can still piggyback off of the flash decay when using the px receiver?

I believe it will. One of the WPPI instructors I saw had it set up on a Qflash. I tried to get a close-up look at how he attached the RP receiver, but it looked like it was just done with Gaffer's Tape!
 

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