After I make all my adjustments in PS, then I use a layers mask or lasso the parts I want sharpened and sharp using the custom filter found here: http://www.aim-dtp.net/aim/techniques/usm/better_than_usm.htm and fade luminosity 50%, then I resize for web in irfanview using lanczos, then back to PS for a final sharpening pass using the same custom filter (usually 100% and fade luminosity according to taste). Finally, I add my script with border, shot info and signiture. Some say I am a little conservate on sharpening, but they look rather natural on my monitor.cwilt said:
I've been using this with great results. After post processing in Capture to tweak exposure, white balance, etc. I save as a TIFF with sharpening off and no USM.cwilt said:
I've been using PK Sharpener for quite a while, first with the S2 Pro, and now with the D2x. (I also have used it extensively with film scans.)TOLady said:I'm a huge fan of PixelGenius PK Sharpener. It's a bit complicated, involved process as there is Capture sharpener, then Creative Sharpener and then Output Sharpener. You can paint it on only where you want/need it rather than just a global sharpen which can disturb some pixels which need to be left alone.
I think they've even got a trial of it, which I'd recommend, but with this one, read the f.... unny manual, to get the best results *LOL*
Which is why I started this discussion. Looks like I am not the only one to think PK doesn't bring out the best detail from a D2x file. What do you think of the NIK sharpener? I hear there is a new version and that it now does 3 pass sharpneing. Capture, creative, and output. I tried version 1 but I could never decide what quality you would consider my printer. For the R1800 I thought it would be above average. :?David Fink said:At this point, however, I'm not entirely convinced that PK Sharpener does justice to D2x files. Often, I find that D2x images are left undersharpened, compared to results with NIK Sharpener Pro.
Excellent thread! Lots of good tips.cwilt said: