Since nobody's using this forum...

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Steve

I took the liberty of putting your ugh! caca, poo poo, hi2 through Neat Image. Spooky! Hope you don't mind?

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Rich
 
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Wow, that's a ton better, Rich! To think what you could've done with the shot had it not been sharpened twice! And, fwiw, Ron R is recommending (for now at least), the ssame USM setting that's used for the D70. Man, I was using a Bunch more than that! I even redid my Bunny studio shot with these less aggressive settings, and it did turn out a lot better. I was using the settings recommended for the D2H, then amping THEM up some more. I think what had me fooled was seeing the shot @50% instead of how it looked at 100.
 
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For Steve,

You did a great job on those DPR pics. Steve I am having a problem on what settings I should use on the D2X. My gosh there are so many menus, that I don't know what to choose for each one. Makes me crazy.lol...I know you have asked me for a a picture with the D2X and I promise to have one tomorrow even if I have to take one with the cat. I usually use manual or A priority with natural lighting but will see what the lighting is like here tomorrow will determine whether I use flash or not.

Also I'm having a few problems. One is the camera will sometimes keep the picture up on the viewfinder for as long as I want it to before shutting it off but I must have pushed a button because not it won't stay on long enough to go through the pictures on the camera. Just a few seconds. Also, the picture looks great on the camera monitor but when I bring them up on the computer monitor, it shows darker than the camera does. Can you give me ideas or answers?

Thanks,

Rich,

Cleaning this pic up in Neat Image goes to show you that a high ISO is a nice picture too. I think this is printable. Check for an answer on the Cherry Blossom topic.
 
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Don't take that sharpening setting too seriously yet. I only tested two of Juergen's shots (a fisheye and a 70-200 shot that was backfocused and taken at 1/125, f/2.8). The fisheye was the one that required 48,5,8. The 70-200 shot required a lot more intensity and a lowered threshold due to the fact that he both missed the lock and was shooting the zoom wide open.

I'll have data in the next few days for you. Testing starts soon... the camera will be here tomorrow sometime.

Ron
 
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With Image Review on,

I assume it is on, since you can see it on the LCD after taking it ;) As soon as you press either one of the shutter buttons, it will go away. I accidently hit the Vertical shuttter all the time, esp when showing the pic to someone else. All ya gotta do is hit the Play ">" button to bring it back. You're gonna need to start learning about Histograms, 'cause you cannot rely on the LCD to check exposure levels. It's *only* for checking the focus (sharpness), and composition. One little trick choice in the CSM I recently found for Playback is selecting the choice to go to next or previoius file with the horizontal (side-to-side) buttons on the Multiselector "rocker" button instead of th eup-down button. With this choice, the up-down button becomes the data scroll through button. This way is much more natural for me. It's CSM setting f3. You know what I did initially, was to set up my cam the way Moose has his 2H set, (for the more part). You can't go wrong with those settings to get you started. I use the "Normal" Sharpening setting, btw, to see if I got a sharp shot in the LCD. I also shoot NEF+Basic JPG Fine, then separate the JPGs into a separate subfolder for quick review in Thums Plus. When I find one I like, I'll switch back to N View, and Tag Mark that file. When all done I'll delete the jpgs, then put all the Tagged shots into another folder, and go through those again. You can sort, (highlight), them by "Tagged" in View. hth!

Catz said:
For Steve,

You did a great job on those DPR pics. Steve I am having a problem on what settings I should use on the D2X. My gosh there are so many menus, that I don't know what to choose for each one. Makes me crazy.lol...I know you have asked me for a a picture with the D2X and I promise to have one tomorrow even if I have to take one with the cat. I usually use manual or A priority with natural lighting but will see what the lighting is like here tomorrow will determine whether I use flash or not.

Also I'm having a few problems. One is the camera will sometimes keep the picture up on the viewfinder for as long as I want it to before shutting it off but I must have pushed a button because not it won't stay on long enough to go through the pictures on the camera. Just a few seconds. Also, the picture looks great on the camera monitor but when I bring them up on the computer monitor, it shows darker than the camera does. Can you give me ideas or answers?

Thanks,

Rich,

Cleaning this pic up in Neat Image goes to show you that a high ISO is a nice picture too. I think this is printable. Check for an answer on the Cherry Blossom topic.
 
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Which raises a few off-topic questions

Ron Reznick said:
Don't take that sharpening setting too seriously yet. I only tested two of Juergen's shots (a fisheye and a 70-200 shot that was backfocused and taken at 1/125, f/2.8).
Ron

Just what exactly is backfocus and how is it recognized? Why is it bad? When is it good? Is there a front focus? A middle focus?

Rich :?
 
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Backfocus is when the lens focuses *slightly* behind the place you want it to focus on. The way I understand it technically is the camera manufacturers set it up this way on purpose because of the way DOF is a bit deeper behind your subject than in front of it. Many people have complained of too much BF on many cameras on DPreview.

I'm not totally sure if I got that right but someone else probably has a better handle on the technical reasons for it.
 
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One alteration... sometimes backfocus is due to the user having focused behind the region which should be sharp for proper presentation of the subject. It's likely that this was the case in the shot I processed.

Ron
 

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