Stuff under blue sky 2

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Continuing of what i posted before, now those shots with Velvia 50, in fact i started to shoot with Velvia that day and then another films, but the results with Velvia were bad, i misled with the exposure, so i really would like to understand more about this film, should go with overexposed as some said or as some recommend to underexposed???

Really Velvia 50 is my favorite color film, and with the blue and green the Velvy punching/popping those 2 colors more than other films, i like Ektar with red color more, it seems that slides are better with cool colors and negatives with warm colors, but i can be wrong as all can be great when exposed and processed very well.

Bad result
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so so result
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img196o.jpg
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img197r.jpg
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Good result
img198o.jpg
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again, so so result
img199.jpg
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I deleted the rest of the frames [3] on the roll as they are not much good and they are almost same subjects as above but little different composed, so decided to ignore them.
 
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I see diagonal bands where the blue sky gets darker. Your main problem seems to be in shadow detail. With scenes in such contrasty light, you're going to loose areas like the side of the bridge if you want the sky to be this deep blue. The right half of the first shot is perfect, but in bringing out the detail in the shadows during scanning doesn't work and you get this noisy blotchy stuff. And your scanner even seem to show bands if you try to reach into areas it can't go. You can't pull out detail that isn't there, and with slide film on a bright sunny day you're either going to loose the highlight or the shadows.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Ajman, United Arab Emirates
I see diagonal bands where the blue sky gets darker. Your main problem seems to be in shadow detail. With scenes in such contrasty light, you're going to loose areas like the side of the bridge if you want the sky to be this deep blue. The right half of the first shot is perfect, but in bringing out the detail in the shadows during scanning doesn't work and you get this noisy blotchy stuff. And your scanner even seem to show bands if you try to reach into areas it can't go. You can't pull out detail that isn't there, and with slide film on a bright sunny day you're either going to loose the highlight or the shadows.

So what to do to solve this issue? our light is so contrasty, the sun is very strong that the DR is really high and i really don't know how to set the exposure and i don't know if i care about the highlight or the shadow areas, i was using a filter, i thought it may help in this situation, i really would like to see what you or a pro can do here.
 
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Hi Tareq,
Slides have less dynamic range than print film so you need to get exposure "correct" but error should go towards overexposure by 1/3 of a stop (ie set film rating for 40). You have to decide if you want the highlights or the shadows if shooting in the day time in a sunny location. A hand held meter is a good start. You say you have a filter - a polarizing filter will help make the sky darker (darkest at 90 degrees to the sun). The best way would be a graduated neutral density filter.
 
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Messages
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Ajman, United Arab Emirates
Hi Tareq,
Slides have less dynamic range than print film so you need to get exposure "correct" but error should go towards overexposure by 1/3 of a stop (ie set film rating for 40). You have to decide if you want the highlights or the shadows if shooting in the day time in a sunny location. A hand held meter is a good start. You say you have a filter - a polarizing filter will help make the sky darker (darkest at 90 degrees to the sun). The best way would be a graduated neutral density filter.

Thanks!
I thought that GND is mostly used if the sky is bright with clouds or details not with blue sky, but i will give it a try next time.
 
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I'm not so sure I agree with Ravi and over exposure.
In my film days I used mainly Kodachrome 64 and !00 print film. I set my camera on 80ASA/ISO and left it there.
So for slide film underexpose a little and for print film overexpose a little. Worked well for me over many thousands of exposures with many Nikon cameras!!!
 
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YOWZA!

Tareq, you nailed the colors on these! Any overexposure would have desaturated the color, and you would ave lost the 'pop' in favor of a bit of gray in the shadows. For light like this, unless there is something that you want to get in the shadow, just let it go. The colors and highlights will thank you.

the rule of thumb is that you should underexpose slide film, and overexpose print film. That is make the actual film a bit darker to keep the strength in the color. You did, and these ROCK!

ps, now we know where the Mayans went - UAE!
 
Joined
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I'm not so sure I agree with Ravi and over exposure.
In my film days I used mainly Kodachrome 64 and !00 print film. I set my camera on 80ASA/ISO and left it there.
So for slide film underexpose a little and for print film overexpose a little. Worked well for me over many thousands of exposures with many Nikon cameras!!!

I didn't know that with slide i have to underexpose and with print i have to overexpose, i do shoot always at box speed unless i want to push [not pull], so it sounds i have to give more tests about push/pull processing and see the results.

YOWZA!

Tareq, you nailed the colors on these! Any overexposure would have desaturated the color, and you would ave lost the 'pop' in favor of a bit of gray in the shadows. For light like this, unless there is something that you want to get in the shadow, just let it go. The colors and highlights will thank you.

the rule of thumb is that you should underexpose slide film, and overexpose print film. That is make the actual film a bit darker to keep the strength in the color. You did, and these ROCK!

ps, now we know where the Mayans went - UAE!

Thanks!

In fact i was fooled by the polarizer, and i was in hurry, i used the light meter but i forgot to add 1.5-2 stops due to the CPL, that is why my slide roll all gone so dark, and it is really funny or surprising me that with print films using the CPL all came out fine even the B&W, so i think that slide should be treated carefully, next time i will be sure or make sure that i should have proper exposure values, and from you and someone that told me to use Velvia 50 at ISO 40 or 25 then i have to underexpose it next shootings.
 
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Using Vel. 50 at 25 would OVERexpose it by a stop. This will give you washed out color and missing hot spots. The color you have are GREAT, so however you got them, keep doing it!
 
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Oct 20, 2008
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I stand corrected - thanks Geoff, underexpose slide film to bring out the saturation and overexpose colour print. I looked up Roger Hicks just to confirm.
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps expo slide.html

However Tareq - were you using a hand held exposure meter? Or if the meter in the camera - is it a circular polarizer filter? Viewing the slides will tell you if they are a little or a lot underexposed but scanning will compensate for that.
 
Joined
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I stand corrected - thanks Geoff, underexpose slide film to bring out the saturation and overexpose colour print. I looked up Roger Hicks just to confirm.
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps expo slide.html

However Tareq - were you using a hand held exposure meter? Or if the meter in the camera - is it a circular polarizer filter? Viewing the slides will tell you if they are a little or a lot underexposed but scanning will compensate for that.

OK.
I used a hand held exposure meter [Sekonic L-758DR].
It is Circular polarizer, B+W MC CPL.
The slide is a lot underexposed, even against the light i can't see the shot, very hard, even with some frames my scanner giving me an error message because it couldn't see the frames well and i did frame some shots manually instead of automatically [on Epson Scan software].
 
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I had this problem with the slide for the first time, i don't know if that because of the filter, because it was second time i used the filter with the slides, first time it was with GND, but this time it was a circ.pol., i did shoot with Velvia on LF for first time ever in my life with LF and got great 2 beautiful shots even the compositions are not lovely.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Ok then you need to compensate on the meter first for the ISO and then for the Polariser.

Yes i know, the polarizer add about 1.5 stops, i think i just was in hurry and didn't carefully read and adjust for the exposure, i will be sure next time i will compensate as proper as it should and see.

I really don't feel sorry about those shots as i have them on print film better than those, i like Velvia for landscape and outdoor, but honestly speaking, still i am testing my films, i really don't know if i am testing the film or the camera or lens or scanner.
 

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