Using CLS and an incident light meter

Joined
Jul 1, 2005
Messages
55
Location
Kansas City
I just purchased a Sekonic L358 and was testing it out trying to use it with Nikon's CLS. I tried using my D70 in manual commander mode. I tried using my Sb800 as the commander unit and using my Sb600 as the main light. I still can't get the meter to read a correct exposure. I can clearly see on the LCD the photo is way overexposed but the L358 is showing a correct exposure.

Has anyone had any success using the SB800/600 remotely with an incident meter?

One of the reasons I purchased the meter was to help make better exposures on portraits using the SB800 and 600 remotely.

Can anyone help me?
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
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6,099
Location
Denver, CO
The problem is that the CLS communication confuses the L358. Even the SU-800 which uses IR confuses the L-358. A long time ago I purchased another cheap flash meter that isn't sensitive to IR for working with CLS. I don't use either of them for CLS work now. The histogram tells me what I need to know.

You could have the subject hold the meter and you pop the flash manually.

Honestly....
If your going to use a meter you might as well buy real stobes.
 
Joined
May 5, 2005
Messages
482
Location
Rexburg, ID
You can still use CLS for controlling the speedlights but use manual instead of TTL. That way you avoid all the preflashes.
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
6,099
Location
Denver, CO
Paul,

With a little practice with the gray card and histogram you can set the lighting ratio within reason. Someday I need to make an overlay for the lcd with a breakdown of the stops, or possibly zones.

One could also use the string method.
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
6,099
Location
Denver, CO
Exactly - have no probs in such circumstances! It's the OP who needs the sugestions, maybe?
I singled your response out but it was meant for everyone.:wink:

The problems come form folks wearing spectacles, jewelery, and similar I find causes most probs - hence the test shots being used to check for same.
I agree, and is the reason I keep a gray card in every camera bag.:smile:
 
Joined
Jul 1, 2005
Messages
55
Location
Kansas City
You could have the subject hold the meter and you pop the flash manually.
I will try that

Honestly....
If your going to use a meter you might as well buy real stobes.
I am purchasing my gear one item at a time so the real strobes are coming its just taking some time. For now I am using the 800/600 setup I have.


Thanks everyone for their input. It has made some sense.
 
Joined
May 1, 2006
Messages
4,295
Location
Youngstown, Ohio
Gil, I used my L358 with my SB800s and SB600s with no problems...but as someone mentioned earlier, I was in all manual (no TTL). I used the 358 to set my key, fill, and hairlight ratios, then used my SU800 to fire them all (albeit in manual). I didn't have any problems.

Ned made a good suggestion...make sure the ISO on the 358 is set correctly...that will surely mess up your values.

Also, are you measuring with the dome up or down? Pointed toward the light source or pointed toward the camera? I've found that setting the individual ratios with the dome down pointed toward the light source, and THEN taking a final reading with the dome up and pointed toward the camera will give my final aperture. YMMV...
 

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