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Water Blur

Discussion in 'Nikon DX DSLR Forum' started by hstrick2000, Jul 13, 2007.

  1. I am so green behind the ears when it comes to photography. What is the best way to create a water blur image with a d50
  2. Sandro Bravo

    Sandro Bravo

    Nov 18, 2005
    The same way as any other camera :wink:, using a slower-shutter speed, preferably while using a tripod to avoid camera-shake.
  3. Thanks Sandro!
  4. Set your shutter speed to 1/60th or slower and experiment to get the effect you want. I haven't done it in awhile but I think 1/15 for rushing water and waterfalls is nice.
  5. Spring Park is the perfect place to practice, and the bonus is the lights with the water at night. You will need a tripod, but no need to spend a lot of money yet. I have cheap one that will work fine that you can try.
  6. Hayden, welcome to the Cafe. You've gotten some great advice already. The only thing I can add is to try lots of combinations of aperture and shutter speed and see what works. If you shoot in manual exposure mode on a tripod you have the most control and will learn more quickly what works and what doesn't work.
  7. Last edited by a moderator: Mar 15, 2017
  8. The Master, Ron Reznick, suggests shutter speeds of 1/4 - 1/2 seconds for waterfalls, and 1 - 2 seconds for flowing rivers. You need to shoot when the sun is off the water, and use a 2-stop filter if it's still too bright.

    Look at this thread.
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 15, 2017
  9. That's very generalized for not knowing the subject distance, aperture and lens. :rolleyes:  I think "The Master" for long exposures for water would be someone like David Fokos - 20 sec to 60 minutes:

  10. I think his work is stunning but many are rather surreal. I'd be inclined to go for a more realistic look in my images before I attemped these, though long exposures ARE easy enough to set up. Thanks for the link and the reminder. I like David's work ... a lot!
  11. CAJames


    Sep 6, 2006
    Lompoc, CA
    Thats the beauty of digital, it doesn't cost anything to try. With exposures longer than a couple of seconds or so moving water doesn't really look like water anymore, more like mist. Like everyone else says, find some water and setup your tripod and see what you like. Here is one of my favorites:


    D2Hs + 180 f/2.8ED, f/16 @.6 sec
  12. Hello Hayden

    It depends on the effect that you want. With digital you can take several shots with and without filters, with the aperture open and with it stopped down, then when you get to your computer you can see which effect you like for each situation. Here is a couple of shots in different situations with different exposures. You can also look at my Autumn gallery and check out the different shutter speeds in the eixf data for the different effects.

    Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

    View attachment 105776
  13. One thing that has not been mentioned by the previous posters, is that, since there will usually be wet rocks or banks at waterfalls or steams, you want to use a polarizer to kill the glare from these areas. Since the polarizer will likely reduce the light by about 1.5 stops, this will usually reduce the light enough to get a sufficiently slow shutter speed. If that is not enough, you can add neutral density filters (not graduated neutral denisty, as was earlier suggested). In such cases, a 2 stop (4x or .6) ND should be enough; but, more can be added where neccessary.

    Though overcast skies are best for waterfalls, or moving water shots, you can still get good results in bright light, as long as there is even lighting on the water.
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