What are my choices for wireless remote shutter release for Z6?

Butlerkid

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The 10 pin connector is round....

Nick I think is suggesting using a different cable to a different connector point
 

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Mike, presumably you want something primarily for the studio? Any MC-DC2 clone will do for corded remotes - the DC2 plug/socket has been in use ever since the D90.

I use a corded remote similar to this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/CamRebel-S...=sr_1_5?keywords=mc-dc2&qid=1582407925&sr=8-5

It is tied to the tripod so that it will not cause any vibrations and is always ready for use on either D750 or Z6. They are so cheap I bought two - my second one is unused after about 2-3 years indoors and out.

BTW if you are going to do any Stacking /Shifting with the Z6 a remote is not required.

DG
 
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Mike, presumably you want something primarily for the studio? Any MC-DC2 clone will do for corded remotes

I'll primarily use it in my makeshift studio but it has to be wireless. That's because I can't stand the idea of adding another cable to this tiny area and because I often have to stand in an area too far from the camera than using a cable will allow. I have to stand in certain places to avoid having myself being reflected in the glass subjects.
 
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Look at the Unleashed from Foolography, it is a tiny module that plugs into the comm port on Z6/Z7 and is operated by their app from your phone. I bought it primarily to give me Lat/Long GPS data into the Z7, but find its extraordinary range of remote capability to be great
 
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Mike, presumably you want something primarily for the studio? Any MC-DC2 clone will do for corded remotes
I'll primarily use it in my makeshift studio but it has to be wireless.

Thanks, Dave! As I continued to think it through, for something that is so inexpensive as you mentioned, I decided that it really doesn't have to be wireless. The times when I need to hide to prevent myself from being reflected in a glass subject, I can simply kneel down behind or beside the tripod. Also, when I travel I'll never have that need to hide, so the wired connection will be fine in those situations.

You mentioned that they are so inexpensive that you ordered two. I'm gonna do the exact same thing -- one that stays attached to the stand in my makeshift studio and one that stays attached to my travel tripod. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/765672-REG/Vello_RS_N2II_RS_N2_Wired_Remote_Switch.html
 
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Although using a different system, when confronted with decisions to make about how I wanted to approach the whole remote cable thing, I decided to go with what was simplest and easiest for me, a corded cable rather than a wireless connection, because I kept reading about how with some wireless you and the wireless remote control have to be in a certain position in relationship to the camera or the thing won't work -- behind the camera doesn't always do the trick, etc. Agggh, just easier to buy something with a corded connection, plug the thing into the camera, use it and no fuss, no muss, no pairing, no unexpected unpairing or loss of connectivity, whatever. I found that I can also use it with my RX10 bridge camera, too, if need be, although it is unlikely that I'd do so.

Also most of the wireless devices were meant for people who were dealing with video and not just still photography, and there were all sorts of extra controls I really wouldn't ever use. That and also the need to keep a good supply of batteries on hand for recharging when need be. With the device I have now, things are very simple and the device works fine and dandy for my purposes, with a long enough cable to give me some space to step away from the camera as need be, etc. Standing behind the camera, somewhat in front of it without blocking the lens, beside it, doesn't matter in terms of the device working. I press the button, it works. That is all I need and want.
 
Hee, hee, yeah, I should have said "off to the side, not in camera/lens view!" I suspect I'd break mine, too! LOL! At any rate there is something about some wireless devices not being able to work with the operator standing in positions which would be out of their wireless range, which could include a very natural position for most of us, behind the camera...... Last thing I'd want is to be standing near the subject, in front of the camera and therefore inadvertently be included in the shot when I press the remote's shutter button! Aieeeeee!
 
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Hee, hee, yeah, I should have said "off to the side, not in camera/lens view!" I suspect I'd break mine, too! LOL! At any rate there is something about some wireless devices not being able to work with the operator standing in positions which would be out of their wireless range, which could include a very natural position for most of us, behind the camera...... Last thing I'd want is to be standing near the subject, in front of the camera and therefore inadvertently be included in the shot when I press the remote's shutter button! Aieeeeee!

More important, did ya get the Girl Scouts cookies? ?
 

Butlerkid

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Although using a different system, when confronted with decisions to make about how I wanted to approach the whole remote cable thing, I decided to go with what was simplest and easiest for me, a corded cable rather than a wireless connection, because I kept reading about how with some wireless you and the wireless remote control have to be in a certain position in relationship to the camera or the thing won't work -- behind the camera doesn't always do the trick, etc. Agggh, just easier to buy something with a corded connection, plug the thing into the camera, use it and no fuss, no muss, no pairing, no unexpected unpairing or loss of connectivity, whatever. I found that I can also use it with my RX10 bridge camera, too, if need be, although it is unlikely that I'd do so.

Also most of the wireless devices were meant for people who were dealing with video and not just still photography, and there were all sorts of extra controls I really wouldn't ever use. That and also the need to keep a good supply of batteries on hand for recharging when need be. With the device I have now, things are very simple and the device works fine and dandy for my purposes, with a long enough cable to give me some space to step away from the camera as need be, etc. Standing behind the camera, somewhat in front of it without blocking the lens, beside it, doesn't matter in terms of the device working. I press the button, it works. That is all I need and want.
Actually I like wireless for landscapes and for birding! I can set up the camera/tripod and then be a lot further away and still capture the images I want since my presence is not disturbing the birds. Wireless is a lot easier. I simply put the receiver on the camera and either hold or hang the transmitter from a D ring on my photo vest. Then I am free to move where ever I need to be.

Great to have choices!
 
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I actually prefer wireless over wired for everything so long as the wireless system remains simple, which is the case with the Nikon ML-L3 remote. I never had a problem using its infrared technology. That might be partly because the D7000 has sensors on the front and the rear. It might be because an infrared beam bounces around like crazy, which means the sensor doesn't have to be within the line of sight (another myth busted!). As a perfect example, we can point an infrared remote television control in the opposite direction of the television and everything will work exactly the same as if we pointed directly toward it.
 

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