Which of the following is recommended?

Joined
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This complements my last post which seeks to both optimize & obtain sharp in focus shots.

1a) Basically, do all mirror up/MLU shots require a tripod because the viewfinder is disabled? Any exceptions?

1b) Accordingly, do you always close the viewfinder eyepiece shutter?

2) Self-timer usage only with a tripod? Please confirm and elevate my understanding.

Anything else from the components listed below require a tripod?

Which of the following (singularly or in combination) comprise an effective solution?

a) Self Timer

b) Exposure Delay Mode

c) Mirror up

d) Live View

e) Cabled or wireless release

Please share you preferred combination complete with settings.

Is there any combo that would be considered overkill or redundant?

What from the above would help produce more satisfactory results when heldheld?

Thanks for further contributing!
 
Joined
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This complements my last post which seeks to both optimize & obtain sharp in focus shots.

1a) Basically, do all mirror up/MLU shots require a tripod because the viewfinder is disabled? Any exceptions? -snip-
Thanks for further contributing!

Basically, a lot of your questions might be answered in the Nikon brochure for the D800-E. http://tinyurl.com/6mgbhaa

I use tripod for most all of my work, Live-Vue, MLU, switch after acquiring focus to manual mode if doing Brackets all are worth doing if critical sharp images are what you intend to wind up with. I use to use a wireless remote but have recently gone with in-camera timer set for 2/sec delay and number of brackets I want, you just have to remember to turn it off when you want to shoot without a timer. Info on that: http://www.lukezeme.com/methods-mat...cket-setup-for-nikon-d800-guide-by-luke-zeme/ Hope this helps.
 
Joined
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New Mexico
90% of my work is handheld and critical sharpness is never a problem.
Most of my stuff moves and applying a combination of proper technique,
adequate shutter speed, and in camera settings allows me to "get the shot"
many would miss on sticks and a gimbal. I've shot alongside the 500's/600's
so equipped and walked away with more keepers just using my BushHawk. :eek:
45 years experience no doubt comes into play but the point I'm trying to convey
is this....practice and technique/totally knowing your camera will free you up to
concentrate on those critical captures. Timing AND being ready to shoot is really
what you're lookin' for. Getting there comfortably is a personal thing, whatever works
for YOU will ultimately be the right choice. Nobody else can push your shutter, eh?! :wink:
 
Joined
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1,248
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Marblehead, Ma
90% of my work is handheld and critical sharpness is never a problem.
Most of my stuff moves and applying a combination of proper technique,
adequate shutter speed, and in camera settings allows me to "get the shot" --snip-- Timing AND being ready to shoot is really
what you're lookin' for. Getting there comfortably is a personal thing, whatever works
for YOU will ultimately be the right choice. Nobody else can push your shutter, eh?! :wink:

Great answer Will. I was answering his question and reason for posting links to his answers. Since owning the D800E most of my shooting was at sunrise and sunsets causing longer shutter speeds w/tripod. Recently, I have been making some adjustments and doing some hand held shots that are much to my linking. Your Pheasant is certainly a shot that would have been missed with a tripod set up. Thanks for your notes and encouragement for hand held shots w/D800e.
 
Joined
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Los Angeles, CA
1a) Basically, do all mirror up/MLU shots require a tripod because the viewfinder is disabled?

pretty much

Any exceptions?

If your camera is sitting on a solid platform other than a tripod

1b) Accordingly, do you always close the viewfinder eyepiece shutter?

only during long exposures (10 sec or more)

2) Self-timer usage only with a tripod? Please confirm and elevate my understanding.

Absolutely not. Self timer is also helpful for TOSSING

Which of the following (singularly or in combination) comprise an effective solution?

a) Self Timer
b) Exposure Delay Mode
c) Mirror up
d) Live View
e) Cabled or wireless release

Please share you preferred combination complete with settings.

I use all those for long exposures (except "e", if you use the self-timer, you don't need the wireless release. it's just overkill)

My long exposure landscape routine goes like this:

Marvel and appreciate the scene you're about to capture
Walk around... analyze scene... study how light falls on the area.. think ahead how you're gonna want to process the scene.
walk around.. walk some more... keep framing in your mind.. keep looking for creative angles...
Once you find the right spot (or so you think)...

Setup tripod
Close viewfinder
Pull up your custom setting (For me, it's ISO 100, Manual mode, f/__, 1/___, 12-bit lossless compressed, etc
Open up Live View
Setup filters
Compose, meter, setup hyperfocal distance, prefocus, etc
Self timer set to 5 sec
0.5 sec exposure delay (flips the mirror 1st, then shutter opens up after 0.5 sec)
<<Click>>

Is there any combo that would be considered overkill or redundant?

Timer + wireless/wired controller would be a waste of time

What from the above would help produce more satisfactory results when heldheld?

Nada. Those are settings for long exposures on a tripod.

getting crisp handheld shots is a whole different ballgame and requires a totally different technique... mostly high shutter speeds, good handholding technique, and lots and lots of practice!

There is no camera setting that fixes bad technique.
 
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Westminster, CA
There is no camera setting that fixes bad technique.

This may be the most accurate statement I have seen on an on-line forum. Ever. You must start with technique regardless of your equipment. Personally, I shoot hand-held like I have a palsy. Always have, and no amount of practice has ever helped. So as a landscape shooter, I always use a sturdy tripod with a cable release and mirror lock. Other settings may vary according to the what you are shooting. Your experience WILL vary. Practice and experimentation will help you discover what you need to do to get the images you desire.
 
Joined
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Messages
5,095
Location
San Diego, Ca. (Fallbrook)
This complements my last post which seeks to both optimize & obtain sharp in focus shots.

1a) Basically, do all mirror up/MLU shots require a tripod because the viewfinder is disabled? Any exceptions?

1b) Accordingly, do you always close the viewfinder eyepiece shutter?

2) Self-timer usage only with a tripod? Please confirm and elevate my understanding.

Anything else from the components listed below require a tripod?

Which of the following (singularly or in combination) comprise an effective solution?

a) Self Timer

b) Exposure Delay Mode

c) Mirror up

d) Live View

e) Cabled or wireless release

Please share you preferred combination complete with settings.

Is there any combo that would be considered overkill or redundant?

What from the above would help produce more satisfactory results when heldheld?

Thanks for further contributing!


90% of my work is handheld and critical sharpness is never a problem.
Most of my stuff moves and applying a combination of proper technique,
adequate shutter speed, and in camera settings allows me to "get the shot"
many would miss on sticks and a gimbal. I've shot alongside the 500's/600's
so equipped and walked away with more keepers just using my BushHawk. :eek:
45 years experience no doubt comes into play but the point I'm trying to convey
is this....practice and technique/totally knowing your camera will free you up to
concentrate on those critical captures. Timing AND being ready to shoot is really
what you're lookin' for. Getting there comfortably is a personal thing, whatever works
for YOU will ultimately be the right choice. Nobody else can push your shutter, eh?! :wink:

I agree with Will and in my own limited experience, I find that I can get consistently sharp images without the "laundry list" that you have described. All those "tools" take away from the spontaneity that I love about photography and make it rigid and confining.
There might be times when all those "tools of the trade" that you mentioned are appropriate but I think a lot less than you might suspect.
A few really fast lenses would be my preference.
 
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none of that

fast shutter speeds is key and hold still (lean on something, hold your breath, whatever works for you)
 
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none of that

fast shutter speeds is key and hold still (lean on something, hold your breath, whatever works for you)

But it's hard to get long shutter speed effects with a fast shutter speed. Light trails, silky water. Not to mention that if you want a small aperture for wide DOF in low light situations your only choice to get fast shutterspeeds is by pumping up the ISO. Not always desired as well.

As for the OP: testing revealed to me that the biggest factor was mirror slap and bypassing that (MUP mode) had the biggest impact. That was with a D200 and Manfrotto 055 legs on a granite bottom; test yourself as YMMV! I wish Nikon offered a way to set the shutter delay pause as it's too short in my eyes to get completely rid of shutter slap and too long for anything else, so they might as well have made the shutter delay pause longer.
That's not to say that other effects like pushing the shutter button have no impact; you're better off with a remote (or using the timer) than without. But if you had to go with only one option, I'd go for MUP.
 
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But it's hard to get long shutter speed effects with a fast shutter speed. Light trails, silky water. Not to mention that if you want a small aperture for wide DOF in low light situations your only choice to get fast shutterspeeds is by pumping up the ISO. Not always desired as well.

As for the OP: testing revealed to me that the biggest factor was mirror slap and bypassing that (MUP mode) had the biggest impact. That was with a D200 and Manfrotto 055 legs on a granite bottom; test yourself as YMMV! I wish Nikon offered a way to set the shutter delay pause as it's too short in my eyes to get completely rid of shutter slap and too long for anything else, so they might as well have made the shutter delay pause longer.
That's not to say that other effects like pushing the shutter button have no impact; you're better off with a remote (or using the timer) than without. But if you had to go with only one option, I'd go for MUP.

you mean it's hard to get slow ss-s with fast ss-s :confused:

this is when you use a tripod:smile:
 
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you mean it's hard to get slow ss-s with fast ss-s :confused:

this is when you use a tripod:smile:

And then you're back to the problem mentioned: mirror slap when shooting in the 1/30" - 1/2" range.
 
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And then you're back to the problem mentioned: mirror slap when shooting in the 1/30" - 1/2" range.

i have never had a mirror slap problem even for 2 min esposures
no remote or delay, I just push down on the top of the lens before and during fire, camera and lens are on a bh55 on a gitzo 3541
 
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i have never had a mirror slap problem even for 2 min esposures
no remote or delay, I just push down on the top of the lens before and during fire, camera and lens are on a bh55 on a gitzo 3541

yea same here. I always hear about people using remote shutters and delays and mirror up etc

all i do is put the d800 on the vanguard basic ballhead tripod (or d700 as well) and set my exposure (sometimes up to 5 min with 10 stop filter) and just hit the shutter button and walk away.

sharp images with no blur..

not sure why so many hoops have to be jumped through
 
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i have never had a mirror slap problem even for 2 min esposures
no remote or delay, I just push down on the top of the lens before and during fire, camera and lens are on a bh55 on a gitzo 3541

Of course you don't have a mirror slap problem for 2 min exposures; the mirror doesn't vibrate that long. It's a problem in the 1/30"-1/2" exposure range. And at that point it takes some serious tripods and precautions to prevent it from happening.
 

Butlerkid

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FutureFocus....

In your original post you don't indicate what SUBJECT you are trying to capture. Technique and settings will be quite different from landscapes, birds in flight and portraits for instance.

What are you wanting to photograph?

With the information, we can THEN give you more useful guidance.
 
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Of course you don't have a mirror slap problem for 2 min exposures; the mirror doesn't vibrate that long. It's a problem in the 1/30"-1/2" exposure range. And at that point it takes some serious tripods and precautions to prevent it from happening.

geez i hate communicating this way sometimes because we are on 2 different pages.....up to 2mins and including everything below

my tripod is pretty serious as is the pressure i put on the lens:smile:
 
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FutureFocus....

In your original post you don't indicate what SUBJECT you are trying to capture. Technique and settings will be quite different from landscapes, birds in flight and portraits for instance.

What are you wanting to photograph?

With the information, we can THEN give you more useful guidance.

+1

that info woulda saved me 3 posts already:smile:
 

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