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Who's using what wides for landscape?

Discussion in 'Lens Lust' started by threecats, Aug 6, 2008.

  1. I'm considering replacing my Tokina 19/35 cause it's not quite doing it on the D300 as it did with film.

    I am not terribly concerned about slight distortion because I won't be using it a whole lot where it would be that evident. ie buildings, etc. In fact my main use would be the great dof more than taking in the whole mountain range if that make sense. For that I can experiment with panos.

    I'd just like a feel from the cafe members on what they use.

    thanks
    glenn

    oops, not ignoring answers. till I find out why the mac isn't getting mails from the cafe subscriptions I have to check posts manually.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 6, 2008
  2. The Nikkor 12-24 f4 is a dream. I moved up to the 14-24 when I picked up a D3 but
    actually prefer the lens on the D2x/D300. Don't have any interiors handy but...

    DSC_2644.
     
  3. Ok Will, that is close to the type of shot I am talking about using it for but with some close foreground object. And any distortion is invisible in this type of shooting. Also appears to be in my most beloved of the States. NM.

    for some reason it reminds me of "red rocks" near gallup
     
  4.  
  5. Hey Glenn -

    I've been *very* happy with the f/2.8 17-35 on my D200. These three are "obsolete" examples, all of which I will rework now that I've acquired a better workflow, a decent monitor and a reasonable calibration tool (lol). I'm glad that I have the original RAW files.

    Nonetheless, they do exhibit an acceptable depth of field, and I hope they offer a possibility for you . . .

    Eric

    P.S. - I would really like to try this lens out on a D700 (or D3) one of these years.

    85710286.original.
    NIKON D200    ---    25mm    f/8.0    1/15s    ISO 200


    85709834.original.
    NIKON D200    ---    20mm    f/8.0    1/100s    ISO 400


    99839529.original.
    NIKON D200    ---    20mm    f/8.0    1/125s    ISO 200
     
  6. I very briefly owned the Sigma 20mm f/1.8 (about 2 weeks)

    2705020380_ceb7977cb3_b.

    2705023264_4af1ebf07b_b.
     
  7. dgh3

    dgh3

    366
    Mar 13, 2006
    Syracuse, NY
    I just returned from a trip to Illinois and I was forutnate to find some stormy weather coming in, which looks pretty good rolling in across the prairie. I really liked my 17-35 2.8 very much.


    [​IMG]


    This is an HDR picture, which combines two different exposures and Nikon Capture D-lighting. I merged the files by hand.
    No color boosting or sharpening. All is set at normal on my D80, f/8, ISO 100, 1/125s.

    This came out very sharp. Full size you can resolve down to the single pixel level. You can resolve the windows in the barn, lower middle and white. If someone were standing by the barn I'm sure I could see them and maybe tell if they were smiling :) 


    But, given the f/stop, I could have probably done even better with my Tokina 12-24 f/4. It's also a very sharp lens.


    The first rule of photography, like gunfigting, is to have the right tool at hand when the right time comes.
    Dave Harris
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 6, 2008
  8. Phillip Ino

    Phillip Ino

    Nov 26, 2007
    Austin
    For DX, I like the Sigma 10-20. Mountains, you say?

    2335122455_52979596b2_b.
     
  9. A lot to ponder and some great examples of the lens. Even more so of the ability of the shooters.
    Philip Ino, that is exactly the type of composition I had in mind. Rich G's too. That 3d effect.

    glenn
     
  10. liftoff

    liftoff

    308
    Dec 21, 2007
    Phoenix, AZ
  11. Sigma 12-24
    Sigma 24-60/2.8
    Nikkor 20/2.8
    Sigma 28/1.8
     
  12. Steinar

    Steinar

    Aug 16, 2007
    Denmark
    I had the Nikon 12-24, and after a calibration it was OK, but shifted to Tokina 11-16, and the Tokina is sharper. No doubt, but it is not so versatile as the Nikon, which goes to 24mm, where it really shines.

    So I shifted to get the sharpest possibly at the widest end, and at the same time the possibility to use filters (se below)

    -----

    I think the Tokina is as sharp in the center as the 14-24, but not in the borders - nothing can beet the Nikon 14-24 for this overall sharp pics.

    I owned the 14-24 for at short while, but send it back, because - at least on DX - it is very prone to flare/ghosting. I know how to work around the flare/ghosting issue, but it gaves ghosting even from the light lamps in a flat, and I also wanted it for low light shooting - the city-lights.

    I have read, that the 14-24 is better in that area on FX.

    ----

    I agree with Edward - the 10,5mm is SO good, and no flare/ghosting and used with the hemi.image-software I get very, very fine WA scapes 8 out of 10 times using this software.

    Remember to level it and nothing in the frame in the corners close to you - that is the only limitation.

    The advice of using this software came from Edward - thank you again, Edward.

    Using the software and shooting WA-people it always delivers 10 out of 10 times.

    The only reason I bought the Tokina was because I want to use filters - if not, the 10,5mm can do all the job.
     
  13. Steinar

    Steinar

    Aug 16, 2007
    Denmark
    Tokina 11-16 on D200:

    2537489557_5382b9828a_b.




    Nikon 10,5mm on D40, only manual focus:

    2503559795_a3dc8a05c3_b.
     
  14. Nikkor 14-24G:eek: 


    028-3.
     
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