Z7 with ftz adapter question

Joined
Mar 4, 2005
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Please clarify why.
With a DSLR, you don't require the sensor to view the scene. For example you can shoot a slow kit lens, and OVF image clarity won't be affected. Same goes for studio work if you're shooting at f/8 or smaller, mirrorless offers no advantages in those situations. In fact I prefer flash photography with my DSLRs and not so much with my A7III. On the flip side, I do prefer mirrorless when I'm shooting fast primes, because OSPDAF is much more precise in scenarios that require shooting wide open. Hence I like both type of cameras for different scenarios.
 
Joined
Oct 9, 2005
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22,834
Location
Moscow, Idaho
I was reading my Thom Hogan Z6 manual and came across this about flash use and the Function D8 that turns the "Final Image in Viewfinder" function, aka real-time exposure and WB changes are seen in the EV. He goes on to say:

The (most likely) problem comes in the studio or with flash use. You’re likely often setting your exposure manually for the output of the flash. In that case, you’ll often end up with a very dim and unusable viewfinder unless you turn this function Off. Moreover, focus is driven by way the image sensor sees the light, and it’s not seeing the final lighting, only some dim interior, so it’s not as responsive with this function set to On.


An active flash in the hot shoe cancels this setting! So does an active WR-R10. If you want to have an instant switch between Custom Setting #D8 being On or Off, you can just leave a small flash in the hot shoe and switch it on and off. But there’s a gotcha: live histograms are disabled if you turn this function Off.
 
Joined
Mar 4, 2005
Messages
15,119
Location
Los Angeles, USA
I was reading my Thom Hogan Z6 manual and came across this about flash use and the Function D8 that turns the "Final Image in Viewfinder" function, aka real-time exposure and WB changes are seen in the EV. He goes on to say:

The (most likely) problem comes in the studio or with flash use. You’re likely often setting your exposure manually for the output of the flash. In that case, you’ll often end up with a very dim and unusable viewfinder unless you turn this function Off. Moreover, focus is driven by way the image sensor sees the light, and it’s not seeing the final lighting, only some dim interior, so it’s not as responsive with this function set to On.


An active flash in the hot shoe cancels this setting! So does an active WR-R10. If you want to have an instant switch between Custom Setting #D8 being On or Off, you can just leave a small flash in the hot shoe and switch it on and off. But there’s a gotcha: live histograms are disabled if you turn this function Off.
You can shoot flash with mirrorless, but it isn't as seamless compared to DSLR flash photography. I can think of several scenarios like shooting an all-day strobe session with a flash trigger attached or shooting event photography in dim conditions where viewing won't be optimal. DSLRs just work properly in these situations. Especially if you're stopped down, plane of focus is deep enough to compensate for any mis-focus and viewing is done via mirror, so there is no sensor lag due to low light.
 
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