Z7ii questions

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My new Z7ii arrived this afternoon. This is my first mirrorless camera and I had only a short time to play with it so far.

I very much like the idea of "what you see is what you get" when looking through the viewfinder. I was able to view helpful things such as a live histogram and focus peaking. I was a bit surprised that I couldn't view blown highlights ("blinkies") live, but rather had to check the picture on the back screen by playback in order to determine if I had any blown highlights. This seems like an important thing to view before pressing the shutter button. Perhaps I am missing something...but shouldn't there be a way to customize the display to see "blinkies"?

The FTZ adaptor seemed quite solid and works flawlessly with the F mount lens that I attached. I will be attaching a Kirk L Bracket to the Z7ii soon...and I am hoping that the FTZ adaptor doesn't get in the way of the L bracket as it connects with the quick release plate. Looks like it might be a close call.

Also, the L bracket will cover up the ports located on the side of the camera. I am hoping this doesn't interfere with my cable release--particularly when placed in the vertical position on the quick release clamp.

That's it so far...

Glenn
 
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My Olympus E-M1 II had over/under blinkies in the EVF. I don't believe the Z's support that - at least I haven't been able to find it except, as you note, on the rear LCD on playback.
 
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I have a Kirk L-bracket designed to fit the FTZ, and I use that when I'm adapting a lens that doesn't have its own tripod collar. It balances better than the L-bracket attached to the camera.
 
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I have a Kirk L-bracket designed to fit the FTZ, and I use that when I'm adapting a lens that doesn't have its own tripod collar. It balances better than the L-bracket attached to the camera.
Thanks Jim...my issue is that I am constantly switching between F mount and Z mount lenses. With the Z lenses (14-24 and 24-70) the L bracket needs to be attached to the camera. For some of my other F mount lenses (but not all as some of them have dedicated tripod collars), the FTZ L bracket would work. But better yet for my situation, the L bracket on the camera would work for all of these lenses.

Glenn
 
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I think the histogram certainly helps, but I suspect I will find myself checking the blinkies again in playback mode.

I'm surprised that you check the blinkies when using your D850, so I'm also surprised that you would check them with your Z7ii. When I upgraded to the Z6, I did so from the old D7000. The blinkies were a lot more helpful on the D7000 than the Z6. That's because the image files on the Z6 have so much more lattitude that even when some blinkies are displayed in a relatively small amount, there really aren't any blown, unrecoverable highlights in the image file.
 
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I'm surprised that you check the blinkies when using your D850, so I'm also surprised that you would check them with your Z7ii. When I upgraded to the Z6, I did so from the old D7000. The blinkies were a lot more helpful on the D7000 than the Z6. That's because the image files on the Z6 have so much more lattitude that even when some blinkies are displayed in a relatively small amount, there really aren't any blown, unrecoverable highlights in the image file.
The first thing I check is the histogram...then I usually check the blinkies. I like how the blinkies quickly point out the areas within the image that might be problematic as well as the extent of the potential issue with one quick glance. Having the histogram displayed in the viewfinder will be a big advantage for me--and maybe I will adjust to judging the extent of the potential problem from there.

I do a lot of bracketing...especially of interior spaces. So, I almost always make sure that I have at least one exposure without any blinkies at all...and I use that frame to blend detail into the frame in areas such as stained glass windows. Sometimes the underexposed image is 9 stops under...and often times auto bracketing doesn't capture that underexposed image--so I capture it manually. The blinkies tells me right when I've achieved that desired exposure for future blending.

Glenn
 
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I have been using the 3 Legged Thing L-bracket and which seems to work fine with a an FTZ as well as access to the remote interface. And it is $99.
IMG_0201.jpg
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The FTZ adaptor seemed quite solid and works flawlessly with the F mount lens that I attached. I will be attaching a Kirk L Bracket to the Z7ii soon...and I am hoping that the FTZ adaptor doesn't get in the way of the L bracket as it connects with the quick release plate. Looks like it might be a close call.

Also, the L bracket will cover up the ports located on the side of the camera. I am hoping this doesn't interfere with my cable release--particularly when placed in the vertical position on the quick release clamp.

That's it so far...

Glenn
HI Glenn - I have the Z6ii with Kirk BLZ L plate. Getting remote release cover open is a little fiddly but once open it does not interfere with the using a remote in either orientation.

I have used this bracket on my Kirk and Arca Swiss ballheads with and without the FTZ. No issues with fitting
 

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I think the histogram certainly helps, but I suspect I will find myself checking the blinkies again in playback mode. Was hoping not to be chimping as much after moving to mirrorless.
Not a solution to your concern, but regarding mirrorless chimping: you can do so in the EVF, which has three significant advantages (in my usage - YMMV):
  1. Much faster than rear screen chimping.
  2. Much less distracting to human subjects.
  3. Does not require reading glasses!
 
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Getting remote release cover open is a little fiddly but once open it does not interfere with the using a remote in either orientation.
I have the SmallRig L-bracket which has an adjustment to pull the portion covering the ports away from the body, which makes cable manipulation much easier. Does the Kirk have that ability?
 
Don't the Nikon camera bodies have zebras? I think they were originally meant for showing overexposure when shooting video, but this setting also works quite nicely for still photography as well. I have my Sony set up with zebras that will display in the EVF at a certain exposure level (when the highlights in the scene are beginning to become overexposed) and that clues me in immediately to dial things back a bit. Also, yes, just as with DSLRs, one can review "blinkies" in playback, too, if desired. I used to "chimp" all the time when I used DSLRs. Now with my mirrorless cameras, no need to do that at all.
 
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  1. Much faster than rear screen chimping.
  2. Much less distracting to human subjects.
  3. Does not require reading glasses!

Add to those three benefits that when viewing the image in bright sunlight, it will always be possible to do so using the view finder when it's virtually impossible using the rear LCD. Also, unlike some mirrorless cameras, if you are wearing sunglasses, you do not need to remove them when using the viewfinder.
 

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